RK

iTrader: (1)

I forgot to mention electrocution. That is a possible downside.

Hey and the battery disconnect works in parking garages too. Almost better than a kill switch.

DeViLbOi

iTrader: (1)

Lead Acid batteries do explode as well. Seen that happen once...not a pretty thing to see let me tell you.

RK

iTrader: (1)

Yeah. Storing in a well ventilated area is highly recommended.

Where the heck did you see a lead battery explosion?

DeViLbOi

iTrader: (1)

Autoparts store. Guy was jumping another person and they connected the car to be jumped last and connected to both terminals. Battery was leaking fumes and they ignited blowing acid all over the guys face and hands. NEVER EVER connect both battery terminals on both cars, connect the dead battery last and most importantly always connect to the ground point last as it will be what sparks.

Danc

iTrader: (1)

If worse came to worse you could always call me for a jump when you get back.

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

Vyn is correct... don't just ignore the CEL by constantly clearing it.
BUT it may not be that bad or enough to cause you problems with the engine.
Like Vyn asked, do you have any other codes generated?
It is very likely that the SSV switch (which tells the PCM the valve is open/closed) is defective.
The valve itself could still be operating, but the switch isn't telling the PCM if its open/closed.
But its better to check and verify what the problem is.

Just disconnect the negative side of the battery and you'll be fine.

Vyndictive

iTrader: (28)

Will do. I might even wash the poor thing. But, we'll see about that.


Yeah... thats the problem with the CEL, other bad things can lurk behind it. I need to get my codes pulled just to make sure I don't have any funny business behind my failed cat code.

tony_673

Good News .......

I ordered my sway bars today! It's only taken me about two years to finally break down and buy them, but they should be here within the next couple of days. I ordered the Progress Technology bars as I've read a lot of good reviews on them. Hopefully I'll have them on shortly after I take the car out of the garage for the year.

More good news......

I once again have the ability to get people some really good prices on parts. More details on this at another time......

Vyndictive

iTrader: (28)

Tony, did you buy upgraded endlinks also?

In my logical reasoning, (which doesn't account for much) sways are like a chain, only as strong as their weakest link. So it doesn't matter how beefy the sways are unless you have improved endlinks to handle them.

RK

iTrader: (1)

Grats on the sway buy Tony. I've been running mine stiff in the rear and middle in the front and it seemed to reduce the stock understeer a fair amount. Curious to see now with a stiffer strut tower bar, stiffer shocks, and better springs if I'll keep it there or not.

I'll hit you up next time I need something but I think I've already hit my annual budget... and it's March.

When are you taking out the car?

Adjustable endlinks aren't 'stronger' they just give you additional range to play with on sway bar setups. Usually the bushings are more of a problem than the endlinks.

tony_673

No, I didn't upgrade the links. From the reading I've done on here I've found that some of the people that already have the Progress bars are still running the stock links and are happy with them and don't see a need to replace them unless they break. In the future I might pick up a set of AP adjustable links, but for now the budget doesn't allow it.

I understand what you're saying though. Down the line I'll probably pick them up, but for now I'm just happy to have the sways in the first place.

Ryan, the car comes out April 1st. I've thought about getting strut bars too, but I've got other priorities to handle first....like my brakes. I need pads before I can hit Nelson's again this year. I know in the past you've mentioned the Hawk Ceramics. What are your thoughts? I need something that can do well on the street, but must perform as equally as (and hopefully better then) the stock pads worked on the track. I'm not ready to get two different sets of pads yet -one for street, one for track- because that entails more time before and after track time; time that I really don't have in the first place this summer.

I also found out that I can get really, really good prices on DBA rotors. The little hamster wheel in my head is trying to compute how I could possibly squeeze in the cost of a set of the 5000 series two piece rotors into my budget this spring......

DeViLbOi

iTrader: (1)

So I took my car up to a local muffler joint to see if I could get smaller bushings for the hangers. They told me that the person that installed my exhaust was an idiot. They also told me to return it because it doesn't fit. I told them that I knew the installers were idiots because it cost me a 12 pack to get it installed. :P He said that the hanger on the extension wasn't installed all the way and that is causing the pipe to hang higher in the back which is in turn lowering my tips downward. He also said that the exhaust runs too close to the K member and I should expect problems with my rear diff from heat. *shrug* So it looks like I get to crawl under there and loosen the bolts and rotate the pipe around. Who wants 6 beers?

RK

iTrader: (1)

Now THAT might be something I'd be interested in. I'm gonna have to replace my rotors soon anyway so that goes under 'maintainance' instead of upgrades - even if it's an upgrade.

Hawk Ceramics are good to street drivers to go on the track with but I don't think they provide much gain in braking on the track. I drove twice with ceramics last year (2 days @ MO and 1/2 day @ Nelsons) and they didn't wear much at all - although those were with stock wheels/tires and then my newer, wider wheels/tires. But real 'stopping power' improvements aren't noticeable enough to shell out the extra cash.

I really recommend going with two sets. You are just never going to get a real idea how much better pads can be until you put on a dedicated racing set. I have the same time constraints you have but at least the cobalt friction pads I have are street capable - ie. they work but they're dirty and crazy loud. I drove on them for a week after midohio last year without any problems other than sounding like a bus when I was braking in the city.

Plus I change out pads in about an hour now. It's not that big of a headache. Even the rears are getting manageable.

I may have a line on the friction pads too from Sebring. I keep forgetting to pursue that. Which is stupid because I'll probably need another set next year.

RK

iTrader: (1)

Oh and I think Optical TDI is running DBAs now. He's dropped in occasionally now so maybe we can get him up to Nelsons for a fun-day to get a closer look.

RK

iTrader: (1)

Don't you know the drill? It costs twice as much to have it fixed not half as much.

Not sure why he thinks the exhaust runs too close to the diff. Is yours touching or something? Mine literally wraps around it and I'm pretty sure most of the A/M exhausts run similar paths. I think I have a pic of it under my car but I'll doubt check.

tony_673

Is he running the 5000 series? I'm curious to hear how well they perform. The two piece aluminum hat setup has got to drop at least a couple of pounds of unsprung weight per wheel. I couldn't find a part number for the rears in the 5000 series though. I wonder if they're really needed for the rear anyway as they only do about 30% of the braking.

DeViLbOi

iTrader: (1)

There is maybe an inch between the two which I would think would be enough...but our exhaust is hot as hell, burned my finger on it while under there.

tiresmoker

iTrader: (1)

Didn't you put the hanger on the side that's hitting the shroud?


If you can hold out I can run up this weeked and take a look at it for you, or maybe later in the week if my dad gets out of the hospital.

DeViLbOi

iTrader: (1)

Wrong hanger. He said that the hanger on the extension wasn't in which is what Jon and Steve worked on while we watched.

tiresmoker

iTrader: (1)

take this picture to the exhaust man and tell him to suck a fat baby dick

https://www.rx8club.com/album.php?al...pictureid=1412


The exhaust and diff are that close. I can even get a picture for you of my stock catback with a tape measure next to it and you can cram that down his gully hole. He is probably just pissed because he would have charged you like $300 or so to put it on. He didn't get the work so he's all crabby

I can still come by and take a look at it if you want. Maybe like thursday if you can wait that long?

DeViLbOi

iTrader: (1)

yea...I don't know how he expected to have a dual sided exhaust not go past the diff. they both need to be dead center on the car back there and there just isn't that much room to play with. I have an appointment with Westside on Thurs and they are going to replace my shroud hopefully. Maybe I will just bring it home.

Vyndictive

iTrader: (28)

Hm, I am almost certain I got that hanger all the way on. I had Jon quick check it for me. However, I did notice that it ran really close to the dif. but didn't think it would touch. The extension hook into the rubber grommet was the last thing we did.

In terms of fitment, I'm not quite sure how much we can do with the pipe. We played with the fit of the extension pipe for while because we bolted it up last. I guess I am confused by how the extension pipe is pushing the tips down because the mufflers were installed first, unless there is a lot of play in those hangers...

However, I'd be inclined to agree with the professionals because his diagnosis of the installers was spot on. I don't think it would be too hard to loosen all the bolts and play with the fitment to see if it gets any better.

I think your shrouds are going to be toast either way, but I agree that it is running too close to the dif.

Sorry John.

tiresmoker

iTrader: (1)

You need to try and adjust that hanger (if it truely is the problem) before you drive the car witht the new shroud or it will just melt the new one. (obviously)

I'll see, maybe I can swing by for a little bit tomorrow and see if we can remedy the problem before you ruin another shroud. If only your ****, errr, I mean tips weren't so big.

RK

iTrader: (1)

Maybe instead he should have gotten an exhaust that extends further out so it doesn't have to be fit perfectly to not melt the shrouds?

Borla... ftw!

tiresmoker

iTrader: (1)

Oh Ryan, btw...
Any bottoming out when you took the car for a spin yesterday. I've been curious about that since Doc had mentioned that whole pre-loading thing. How did the car feel?