RK

iTrader: (1)

Jon if you want, instead of playing around with your starter, you can experiment with my old one once I put on the new one. Planning on doing that next Saturday. If you can figure out how to reman mine so it starts better you can then swap it into yours and give me your old starter. I think I read the motor is the real problem but I'm not really sure.

At least that way you don't risk making the starter worse once you crack it open.

The other option is remanufacturing the old starter and then selling it. To Steve. When he gets back from his trip and his car won't start. For a lot of money.

Shinka_MJR

Had to postpone this morning's tinting until saturday. So.... pics to be seen saturday afternoon!

you know it's supposed to snow next week??? F`ing ohio weather... LOL

DeViLbOi

iTrader: (1)

They can't get today's weather right...what makes you think they can do it a week out?

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the offer... but its already taken apart on my kitchen counter
I'm pretty sure the starter switch is the problem because that is the only thing failing my diagnostics so far.
I'll get into more detail later....

RK

iTrader: (1)

Funny Jon. Shoulda known you'd already have it apart. Well if you break yours at least you know there's another one down the street.

John - here's a pretty decent pic of my stock exhaust and how close/far away it is from the diff.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3370/...1cdd700a_b.jpg

Dunno if that will help or not. I forgot to get a shot of the Borla while it was up in the air.

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

I took some pics too from under the car.
I'm about to put the starter back in, so I'll post those in a little bit.

Vyndictive

iTrader: (28)

Yeah, : Jon, I really don't think there were that many options to get the fit wrong on John's car... I mean, you're limited by the play in the bolts that bolt to the midpipe and where the hangers are welded on. Those guys won't bend unless you take it back off also.

What did you find out about the starter? Any wear or areas where you see that it was failing?

And my car is so going to start right up when i get back. I know it!

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

The car started just fine.
I want to let it run for a little bit and start it again.
It always sucked starting warm.
I'll write all about it when I get back in.

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

John- Here is an under-shot of my car:

DeViLbOi

iTrader: (1)

Yea...mine hangs lower then that

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

So here are some pics of the starter disassembled:


1st pic shows the starter installed in the car.

2nd pic shows the drive gear that spins the flywheel.
Notice the gear is inside the housing... this is so the starter isn't running when the car is running (which would burn out the starter).
When the key is turned to 'start', a switch is activated and pushes a shaft the drive gear is on and it spins the flywheel.

3rd pic shows the starter split in half.
On the left you can see the switch on top and internal gears below.
On the right is the yoke that houses the armature and brushes.

4th pic shows the the yoke apart.
On the left is the commutator that the brushes rest on.
On the right are the brushes (the 4 sticking towards the center).

5th pic shows everything apart.
You can see the armature in the center (that the commutator is attached to).


Now for the troubleshooting:
I first checked the commutator diameter and got 29.42mm (standard is 29.4, minimum is 28.8).

I then checked the brush length and got 9.98mm (standard is 12.3, minimum is 7.0).

Since those were within tolerance I decided to test for shorts on the armature.
I tested for continuity between the commutator and each segment, but all was good.

Verified that there was no continuity between the commutator and the shaft.

I then moved onto the switch and found that I was not getting continuity from a terminal to the body (which I should have).
This tells me that more load is required to ground the switch (the switch is where you hook-up the electrical wires).
So it looks like I may end up buying a new starter.
Don't think I can get a switch by itself new.

IMPORTANT...................
Ryan- when you plan on doing this, MAKE SURE TO DISCONNECT THE BATTERY!
The battery is connected directly to the starter and if the terminal makes contact with any part of the car's body (ground), you'll receive a pretty big spark!
Even using a socket wrench to remove the nut can cause a spark if it hits the car's body.

RK

iTrader: (1)

OnlineMazdaParts actually breaks out starter components. Not sure if that switch is included there. I'd email the guy too if you can't find it. He's really helpful.

http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...layCatalogid=0

Scroll down and you'll see the components broken out on the left hand menu.

EDIT: Here: http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...layCatalogid=0

Looks like the switch would cost you $122.

I was planning on it. I pretty much disconnect my battery whenever I do anything with any parts that sound remotely electrical. You got to see that when we swapped out my ignition system.

So do you know the spark is big because you just saw one?

Mazmart did just post up two new upgraded starters and noted that Mazda is no longer making them and only selling refurbs though you can still find them like I did on Fleabay or elsewhere.

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

No... most starters are like that to where the battery is directly connected.
Plus, I saw it wired that way in the electrical diagram.

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

Its almost worth just spending the extra cash to get the whole starter assembly since everything else is wearing down.

RK

iTrader: (1)

Probably.

On a completely unrelated note I just enrolled and got accepted in the Mazda competion program. They have good prices on refurb starters. If I ever need one. And if they need a core sent to them I happen to have a spare...

docgatorx8er

iTrader: (10)

I'm not sure you can operate on that map though. I think it's for tuning only.

RK

iTrader: (1)

Doc - it's a safe tune. You can operate on it fine. I believe he even includes his CEL masking, oil rate, and the change in rad fan behavior in the base tune. MM has said for NA cars with stock intakes he just has to tweak the tune a little (I think he said it's something like 5% worth of tweaking). But of course that tweaking is the difference between you running perfect and you running a little too rich. Even without it though you can definitely run on it as long as your NA. It's -safe- for the FI guys too however plenty of them have reported that it really affects their performance. But that's to be expected and is why tuning becomes much more critical when you go FI.

My intention is to create a tune off the Cobb base tune and the Cobb Stage 1 tune (post midpipe) that does all of those maintainance tasks. I don't intend on fudging through tuning steps that would provide better efficiency/power by leaning out my AFR.

Danc

iTrader: (1)

Guess what just got delivered to me?

RK

iTrader: (1)

A Victoria's Secret catalog?

Danc

iTrader: (1)

Actually... yes.

RK

iTrader: (1)

I'm THAT good.

Corners or your snail? Or do you already have the snail?

Danc

iTrader: (1)

Got the snail today, I have a ton of vacation time coming up in a few weeks, so I think I'll be making the install then.

RK

iTrader: (1)

Sweet. Can't wait to see/hear the car. Finally somebody in NE Ohio going FI.

Good luck on the install and if you need help or want people to stop down and see you start it up definitely speak up.

RK

iTrader: (1)

Anyone need an engine cover? Also might be a good chance at meeting another RX8 owner.

http://cleveland.craigslist.org/pts/1069662349.html

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

Damn.. I can sell mine for $50 too!