Akron/Cleveland 8 Owners.
06-03-2009, 07:15 AM
#6451
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Uhh, so really dumb question here I feel...
I'm going to try to prepare numbers before the event this saturday. Can I just pick any number or what?
And I think I need a two digit number, then my class and an R, correct?
Example:
14 - SP - R
(I say SP because of no cat)
I know number 69 is taken... lol.
I'm going to try to prepare numbers before the event this saturday. Can I just pick any number or what?
And I think I need a two digit number, then my class and an R, correct?
Example:
14 - SP - R
(I say SP because of no cat)
I know number 69 is taken... lol.
Your class is BSP not just sp.
If you don't want to spend money on letters you can just print out a page of numbers and tape that to your car. They are also printing them at registration for 5(?) bucks. Then people are just taping the computer page to the car with painters or duct tape.
And 69 proba my isn't taken but the reason it's a great number is that if someone is already using it you can switch it to 96 easily.I use 8 and 0 to be either 80, 88, or my preferred 8 but going with 60 or 90 are also great choices.
Checj this but I believe numbers are supposed to be 8" tall and class should be 4" and they should be a contrasting color from the car or have a bbacking or outline that provides a contrast.
06-03-2009, 07:19 AM
#6452
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Here are the rules on numbers up at NORA
Numbers must be a minimum of 8" high with a 1.25" stroke.
Class letters must be a minimum of 4" high with a 0.75" stroke.
In all cases, the height of the class letters must be between 25%
and 75% of the height of the numbers. Stroke width must be atleast 10% of the height.
Class/Number colors must be in contrast to vehicle color unless there is another contrasting background behind. No silver numbers on a gray car unless the numbers are on a black background.
Shoe polish on windows doors will not work any more. We have always had extra numbers and letters at registration for people to place on their car for $2.
Masking tape will no longer be acceptable to "write" numbers and letters on your car either. Basically, make your own or pay for ours.
All two driver cars must use the number "1" in front of the primary number to designate the second driver for the heat. T&S will only score the number on the car as it comes to the start line. If you forget to change your number, you will simply lose that run for yourself your co-driver. We can not spend 30 minutes when the event is over trying to sort peoples mistakes. We will try to warn you as best we can if T&S thinks you have the wrong number on to prevent it from happening again, but it is your responsibility to look after yourself.
Before you bring your car to Tech, you must have all of your class and numbers on both sides of the car. If they are hard to read, sloppy, or too small, you will not pass tech and will not be allowed to run till it is corrected.
Just taking care of the things mentioned above will actually speed our events up even more. Eliminate confusion for the spotters, workers, and timing people, cut down on reruns, and most importantly, make auditing the results at the end of the day much fast with far fewer mistakes. That alone can get us to the trophies almost 15 mins sooner.
We will also try to have extra magnetic letters for our special classes below. Please try to have your own. If we run out, then it will be up to you to get the right identification.
Rookies "R"
Index "I"
Pro Class "X"
Class letters must be a minimum of 4" high with a 0.75" stroke.
In all cases, the height of the class letters must be between 25%
and 75% of the height of the numbers. Stroke width must be atleast 10% of the height.
Class/Number colors must be in contrast to vehicle color unless there is another contrasting background behind. No silver numbers on a gray car unless the numbers are on a black background.
Shoe polish on windows doors will not work any more. We have always had extra numbers and letters at registration for people to place on their car for $2.
Masking tape will no longer be acceptable to "write" numbers and letters on your car either. Basically, make your own or pay for ours.
All two driver cars must use the number "1" in front of the primary number to designate the second driver for the heat. T&S will only score the number on the car as it comes to the start line. If you forget to change your number, you will simply lose that run for yourself your co-driver. We can not spend 30 minutes when the event is over trying to sort peoples mistakes. We will try to warn you as best we can if T&S thinks you have the wrong number on to prevent it from happening again, but it is your responsibility to look after yourself.
Before you bring your car to Tech, you must have all of your class and numbers on both sides of the car. If they are hard to read, sloppy, or too small, you will not pass tech and will not be allowed to run till it is corrected.
Just taking care of the things mentioned above will actually speed our events up even more. Eliminate confusion for the spotters, workers, and timing people, cut down on reruns, and most importantly, make auditing the results at the end of the day much fast with far fewer mistakes. That alone can get us to the trophies almost 15 mins sooner.
We will also try to have extra magnetic letters for our special classes below. Please try to have your own. If we run out, then it will be up to you to get the right identification.
Rookies "R"
Index "I"
Pro Class "X"
06-03-2009, 07:42 AM
#6455
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06-03-2009, 08:07 AM
#6457
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That's what I'd do until you were sure you wanted to keep doing this. If you ever want to Make your own numbers you can get white magnetic sheeting at home depot for cheap and then cut it up. I've looked all over the store for it and never found it but people keep telling me they stock it. I am just unable to ask someone at the store.
06-03-2009, 08:12 AM
#6458
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You should be fine.
They don't list a separate Auto/MT part number:
Attachment 139866
Remember, the mounts have been upgraded so if you're getting one used, it might be the older style too.
They don't list a separate Auto/MT part number:
Attachment 139866
Remember, the mounts have been upgraded so if you're getting one used, it might be the older style too.
06-03-2009, 11:36 AM
#6465
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On the topic of motor mounts.....
Does anyone know if they make an aftermarket montomount and tranny mount for the 8? Even better, does anyone know if they make inserts for the stock mount, say a poly insert perhaps?
Inserts are legal but replacing the whole mount is illegal (for STX) so I'd prefer to have just the inserts.
I've searched but I can find anything.
Does anyone know if they make an aftermarket montomount and tranny mount for the 8? Even better, does anyone know if they make inserts for the stock mount, say a poly insert perhaps?
Inserts are legal but replacing the whole mount is illegal (for STX) so I'd prefer to have just the inserts.
I've searched but I can find anything.
06-03-2009, 02:47 PM
#6466
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On the topic of motor mounts.....
Does anyone know if they make an aftermarket montomount and tranny mount for the 8? Even better, does anyone know if they make inserts for the stock mount, say a poly insert perhaps?
Inserts are legal but replacing the whole mount is illegal (for STX) so I'd prefer to have just the inserts.
I've searched but I can find anything.
Does anyone know if they make an aftermarket montomount and tranny mount for the 8? Even better, does anyone know if they make inserts for the stock mount, say a poly insert perhaps?
Inserts are legal but replacing the whole mount is illegal (for STX) so I'd prefer to have just the inserts.
I've searched but I can find anything.
Why not just use the new ones from Mazda via warranty?
06-03-2009, 02:54 PM
#6467
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Yes...Scott did sell them. I BELIEVE that one of the things I read was that Brice bought out Scott's inventory when he went under. It caused some big hubbub a while back.
06-03-2009, 03:12 PM
#6469
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Well, I have an '05, I believe that's the year the upgraded ones came to be, correct?
I'd just like something a little stiffer for the transmission mount really.
EDIT: Nevermind.... Applies to all models built previous to May 6 2005. Mine was built on March 28 2005....
Too bad I'm out of bumper to bumper warranty. Looks like if I want the new mounts I have to buy them
I'd just like something a little stiffer for the transmission mount really.
EDIT: Nevermind.... Applies to all models built previous to May 6 2005. Mine was built on March 28 2005....
Too bad I'm out of bumper to bumper warranty. Looks like if I want the new mounts I have to buy them
Last edited by tiresmoker; 06-03-2009 at 03:19 PM.
06-03-2009, 03:15 PM
#6470
06-03-2009, 03:19 PM
#6471
It's Not Easy Being Green
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I'd check directly with Paul since they have done a lot of Renny rebuilds, 20B builds and tranny swaps. Might check with Ray @ bhr too. I don't think they have anything on the market but I'm sure he'd know if there is something out there since they've done rebuilds and looked at different things to upgrade with BHR products.
06-03-2009, 03:24 PM
#6472
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haha Jon, I found the TSB and was reading it then edited my post before I saw you tossed that up.
I'll have to pm Ray and Paul to see if they know of anything. If I have to but a whole mount (new stockers) I would rather just buy stiffer inserts for mine if they are available.
I'll have to pm Ray and Paul to see if they know of anything. If I have to but a whole mount (new stockers) I would rather just buy stiffer inserts for mine if they are available.
06-03-2009, 04:00 PM
#6474
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Although look at it like this.... I have a 100k drivetrain warranty (Certified Mazda)
I'll have to call Sandy and see if I can get those covered under the 100k certified warranty that is still on the car. They may not be though, pretty sure the warranty only covers engine, tranny, differential, axles, **** like that. I have the paperwork at home stating everything that is covered under the Mazda Certified Warranty.
And if they are, then I gotta raise the car up so it wil get on the rack
06-03-2009, 04:05 PM
#6475
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well here's all the stuff that's covered (in bold) http://www.mazdausa.com/MusaWeb/pdf/...components.pdf
Now, it's doesn't say they aren't covered, but it also doesn't say they are..
This seems to be one of those grey areas.. I better just call....
Now, it's doesn't say they aren't covered, but it also doesn't say they are..
This seems to be one of those grey areas.. I better just call....