rotareriot

iTrader: (1)

okay ill pm him, but i was looking at racing beat wires and there 100$ is that normally what ill be paying for a set or should i look somewhere else?

and i'll take pics, there black strakes and clear corners that are matched to be the same color as the brilliant black. they actually look better then i was expecting. hah just gotta figure out how to put them on. is there a DIY thread on those?

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

Yeah.. I saw the RB were $100, thats why I didn't suggest them.
I paid $170 for AutoEXE wires imported from Japan (JDM yo) and now Doc has them on his car.
That is why I recommended Charles R Hill because he sells the MSD for either $60 or $80 (I forget which).

rotareriot

iTrader: (1)

alright well i will message him then if i can save some money.
oh and jon i just bought those tanabe springs too, should be fun when they get here

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

LOL.. like I mentioned before, Brian is the man when it comes to that and he has done it a few times on an RX8.
I would still love to tag along and help.

Vyndictive

iTrader: (28)

did someone say racing beat?

rotareriot

iTrader: (1)

haha yes i did say racing beat. but i dont want those if there 100 then, and i guess once the springs get here ill talk to brian, parhaps he'll help me with the install. i just hope its not too much of a drop cuz front/rear its a 1.4"/1.2" drop.

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

Down boy!

RK

iTrader: (1)

Anyone interested in two tickets for the Koni race tomorrow for free? With some scotch tape it'll include a parade lap or two around midohio. Just have to meet John well ahead of 11 when the registration for the lap ends.

rotareriot

iTrader: (1)

hey jon, im putting that stiff on my car right now, and im lookin at that stupid thing on the front of my car and i remember you said i needed some type of tool to get those clips out. what was that tool? and you think it would hurt it to just use a flathead screwdriver to get em out?

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

If you don't plan on using those clips again, sure you could use a flat-head and just deform/rip the hell out it until it comes off.
Its easier to start with a flat-head, working all the way around the clip.
Then once its pulled out a little, use pliers behind the head to squeeze the tab (best you can) and pull down.

You can also buy panel clip pliers that squeezes the clip from behind the head.


What we discussed yesterday was using a standard panel tool to remove the clips:

rotareriot

iTrader: (1)

okay ill look into those, but i got the strakes and corners on.




so what do you guys think
hah and for once you guys didnt have to come all the way over just for something stupid, and you were right, it took about 40 minutes for the left side and about 3 minutes for the right.

DeViLbOi

iTrader: (1)

If someone is interested in tomorrow please try and call me between 8 and 9 AM tomorrow. That way we can try and work something out for you to get in. Im staying one exit North on 71 from MidOhio.

streetsrx8

quiet around here. mid ohio must have been good!

RK

iTrader: (1)

Busy. Sounded like the race was fair amount of fun. I enjoyed Saturday tho the race itself was kinda boring (very few incidents, #70 struggled, and no where near enough gratuitous female nudity ).

Anyway is there anybody interested in my midpipe? Pretty sure I'm gonna sell it rather than put it on. Anybody who wants it for the RB price (saving $50 on shipping) @ $325 let me know.

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

You pushed so hard to get it and now you want to sell it?
Why did you change your mind?

Vyndictive

iTrader: (28)

I wonder if the forum would be willing to pay a premium to get it faster.

-------------------------

Yeah, I haven't been doing many projects on the 8 right now... Damn weather men misled me on Saturday and I didn't make it out there thinking we were going to get the 2 inches of rain and the huge storms that appear to miss to the south. I can't say too much, I was at the bar until about 1.30 friday night... so there was a choice involved in it also.

The other projects: Well, picked up that Bronco for the winter beater and I'm working on that. Some serious rust above the fenders, some broken door pins, loose interior panels... basically everything you would expect from a 14 year old car that was dirt cheap. So I've been over on the Bronco forum trying to figure stuff out. Been driving the 8 mostly though, its running really good, shifting smooth. Bought some seafoam for the Bronco so I ran a bit through the tank of the 8 also, just for *****.

I fell victim to my own poor workmanship on Monday with the motorcycle. I replaced the brake pads F+R in February and flushed all the brake lines after Doc showed me how to do it on the 8. . . well, I guess I just assumed that I had tightened everything back down in Feb. I took the motorcycle down to Columbus last Sunday to look at the Bronco. Made it there and back no problem... then, on Monday I was riding and my rear brake goes all the way to the "floor" (no pressure) I'm thinking, aww crap, I blew out the o-ring between the 2 piece caliper or some other fluid problem.
No, not a fluid problem. The two bolts that anchor the brake caliper to the frame and hold it over the rotor fell out... so the rotor wash pushed up and off the rotor. Needless to say, lucky for me the front and rear brakes are independent hydraulic systems.

Good story, want me to tell it again?

RK

iTrader: (1)

I pushed hard in January and February. Really didn't push it after March.

Now I'm buying a house in the Fall and I only have one scheduled track event left. Plus I gotta decide if I'm keeping the car through the winter or parting it out and selling it. If I keep it then I'll start the process of tracking it and have to get another car (or just drive my Exploder all 4 seasons). I'm leaning towards selling it and then either getting a project RX7 to play with (maybe autox but no tracking) or just not having a sports car for a year and then going after the next RX or an already track prepped Vette/Miata/RX7/RX8/etc. Only way I can afford that tho is to start saving for it this Winter.

So I figure regardless I should sell the midpipe, take the $50 hit, and let someone else fart flames the rest of the year.

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

I understand where you're coming from Ryan... I was VERY close to selling my 8 last November so I could afford a new house (and pay off the debt).
Being so close to paying it off, I decided to keep it.
I'm sure you can make a good profit selling your aftermarket components.

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

TJ- How has the car been running?
Have you looked into new wires yet?

rotareriot

iTrader: (1)

yeah its going pretty good as far as the car is, looked at some wires but not too much, been occupied with those springs. but now that those are already on the way and paid for i should look into wires. ill have to message charles then

Vyndictive

iTrader: (28)

No, I'm sure the springs should fix the problem.

Call me crazy, but it still might be worth the 75 bucks to get a compression test. You may be chasing down a problem you can't catch, and it'll slowly get worse with time... on the other side though... there isn't anything you can do but let it fall to the point where Mazda replaces it.

rotareriot

iTrader: (1)

damn if only they would fix it hah.

its only 75 dollars for a compression test? i thought it was way more otherwise i would've gotten one done already

Vyndictive

iTrader: (28)

Well, that is what the cost of the test was at Park Mazda wooster when the were also charging me for 6.5k in other stuff... so it might be 75 plus labor... so, 120ish maybe?

Anyway, call around to dealers up by you and see what they charge. If it fails and its new engine time, you get the test for free.

streetsrx8

I have seen a great looking FD the past two mornings getting off of 80 heading towards canfield on route 11.

I keep getting blocked by traffic when I try to get close enough to get a good look, though.

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

Ryan- I was just thinking about this...
If you decide to sell your car, wanna swap starters?