Akron/Cleveland 8 Owners.
02-15-2010, 08:01 AM
#9177
Trust me, you're wrong
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I ran 255 40's on the 17 x 8's last year. I have said it numerous times. I really don't understand why this is still being questioned.
As for the 265's, even in the event I get 9" wide wheels I won't be getting them. They are just as heavy, if not heavier than the 265 35 18's, and the tire is taller thus making the gearing taller in comparison to the 255 40's
So, a heavier tire that offers worse gearing for more money? Yeah, I'll pass.
Not trying to sound like an *** so don't take it that way, I'm just saying you should trust your gut and make informed decisions on your own before you blindly follow a path without good cause. Just becuase you read it on the internet doesn't make it a good idea. What works for one person won't always work for another person.
Example: I can tell you what I run my dampers at, what I have my sway bars set to, what I run my tire pressures at, but in all honesty it means squat from one driver to the next because everyone is going to have a different style of driving. Blindly copying someones setup because it works for them doesn't mean it's going to work for you.
I dont' want to see people getting pissed because they blindly throw money out on a bunch of parts for their car, then get pissed because they don't know how to use them and end up being on the same level of performance as before, or actually get slower becuase they screwed the pooch and don't know how to set up their car.
Just a friendly FYI.
As for the 265's, even in the event I get 9" wide wheels I won't be getting them. They are just as heavy, if not heavier than the 265 35 18's, and the tire is taller thus making the gearing taller in comparison to the 255 40's
So, a heavier tire that offers worse gearing for more money? Yeah, I'll pass.
Not trying to sound like an *** so don't take it that way, I'm just saying you should trust your gut and make informed decisions on your own before you blindly follow a path without good cause. Just becuase you read it on the internet doesn't make it a good idea. What works for one person won't always work for another person.
Example: I can tell you what I run my dampers at, what I have my sway bars set to, what I run my tire pressures at, but in all honesty it means squat from one driver to the next because everyone is going to have a different style of driving. Blindly copying someones setup because it works for them doesn't mean it's going to work for you.
I dont' want to see people getting pissed because they blindly throw money out on a bunch of parts for their car, then get pissed because they don't know how to use them and end up being on the same level of performance as before, or actually get slower becuase they screwed the pooch and don't know how to set up their car.
Just a friendly FYI.
02-15-2010, 08:04 AM
#9178
You know he's out in Toledo, right?
"Those who matter won't mind, and those that mind don't matter"
. . . See, the key is to start slow, then no matter hot blindly you throw money at your car, you'll get faster. And when that happens, you can rest assured that I will be taking full credit for the improved times, not the mods to the car.
I ran 255 40's on the 17 x 8's last year. I have said it numerous times. I really don't understand why this is still being questioned.
As for the 265's, even in the event I get 9" wide wheels I won't be getting them. They are just as heavy, if not heavier than the 265 35 18's, and the tire is taller thus making the gearing taller in comparison to the 255 40's
So, a heavier tire that offers worse gearing for more money? Yeah, I'll pass.
Not trying to sound like an *** so don't take it that way, I'm just saying you should trust your gut and make informed decisions on your own before you blindly follow a path without good cause. Just becuase you read it on the internet doesn't make it a good idea. What works for one person won't always work for another person..
As for the 265's, even in the event I get 9" wide wheels I won't be getting them. They are just as heavy, if not heavier than the 265 35 18's, and the tire is taller thus making the gearing taller in comparison to the 255 40's
So, a heavier tire that offers worse gearing for more money? Yeah, I'll pass.
Not trying to sound like an *** so don't take it that way, I'm just saying you should trust your gut and make informed decisions on your own before you blindly follow a path without good cause. Just becuase you read it on the internet doesn't make it a good idea. What works for one person won't always work for another person.
.Example: I can tell you what I run my dampers at, what I have my sway bars set to, what I run my tire pressures at, but in all honesty it means squat from one driver to the next because everyone is going to have a different style of driving. Blindly copying someones setup because it works for them doesn't mean it's going to work for you.
I dont' want to see people getting pissed because they blindly throw money out on a bunch of parts for their car, then get pissed because they don't know how to use them and end up being on the same level of performance as before, or actually get slower becuase they screwed the pooch and don't know how to set up their car.
I dont' want to see people getting pissed because they blindly throw money out on a bunch of parts for their car, then get pissed because they don't know how to use them and end up being on the same level of performance as before, or actually get slower becuase they screwed the pooch and don't know how to set up their car.
Last edited by Vyndictive; 02-15-2010 at 08:11 AM.
02-15-2010, 08:44 AM
#9181
Trust me, you're wrong
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Steve you missed the point completely.
What I was saying was know your car, and know how to use the parts you put on your car. Don't just do what other people do becuase it works for them, or you read it on the internet somewhere and assumed it as a truth.
Case in point: Jamie though that it would be a good idea to add more preload on the coilovers to counteract the shitty lot conditions at Northfiled so the car wouldn't bottom out going over the one grove in the pavement. I knew this would throw off the entire setup and make the car uneasy at best.
I decided to do it anyway to prove a point. While adding more preload to the springs did keep the suspension stiff enough that the car wouldn't bottom out, it also effectively made the car so stiff that the suspension wouldn't absorb any braking force. The brakes and tires then were overworked. The tires lost traction in braking zones at the end of high speed sections and the brakes then had to work twice as hard, thus resulting in lockup and the ABS system going haywire.
We got slower because of a change made to the car. I knew this would happen but I did it anyways to prove a point.
THAT is what I am talking about. Not knowing what the car will do yet make changes anyway. So yes, you can in fact get slower by putting mods on the car and NOT knowing how to use them.
All I am trying to get at is don't just arbitrarily throw money at your car because you can. Don't just add mods because the class allows for it. If you don't know how to use them you are in a world of hurt, and more then likely spend most of your season pissed off because you don't know what the hell you are doing when you adjust your setup.
Find people that know what they are talking about and listen to them. Don't get pissed when they offer advice on what you are doing wrong.
Doc: As for the red meat, I always eat plenty. I definitely had my fair share this past week. It's when I don't get my red meat that I turn into an *******.
What I was saying was know your car, and know how to use the parts you put on your car. Don't just do what other people do becuase it works for them, or you read it on the internet somewhere and assumed it as a truth.
Case in point: Jamie though that it would be a good idea to add more preload on the coilovers to counteract the shitty lot conditions at Northfiled so the car wouldn't bottom out going over the one grove in the pavement. I knew this would throw off the entire setup and make the car uneasy at best.
I decided to do it anyway to prove a point. While adding more preload to the springs did keep the suspension stiff enough that the car wouldn't bottom out, it also effectively made the car so stiff that the suspension wouldn't absorb any braking force. The brakes and tires then were overworked. The tires lost traction in braking zones at the end of high speed sections and the brakes then had to work twice as hard, thus resulting in lockup and the ABS system going haywire.
We got slower because of a change made to the car. I knew this would happen but I did it anyways to prove a point.
THAT is what I am talking about. Not knowing what the car will do yet make changes anyway. So yes, you can in fact get slower by putting mods on the car and NOT knowing how to use them.
All I am trying to get at is don't just arbitrarily throw money at your car because you can. Don't just add mods because the class allows for it. If you don't know how to use them you are in a world of hurt, and more then likely spend most of your season pissed off because you don't know what the hell you are doing when you adjust your setup.
Find people that know what they are talking about and listen to them. Don't get pissed when they offer advice on what you are doing wrong.
Doc: As for the red meat, I always eat plenty. I definitely had my fair share this past week. It's when I don't get my red meat that I turn into an *******.
02-15-2010, 09:12 AM
#9182
good ole' wankel spanking
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haha thanks steve, as much as i like it out here, being stranded and having to walk past my car everyday as it sits there kinda sucks = / sending the coils out would be the easiest route, ill pay for shipping and everything.
02-15-2010, 02:52 PM
#9183
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So today in the mail i recieved a start i found. now im lost, because it doesnt have the numbers i thought would be there. instead it says N3Z1 then under that is M001T30471A. ive tried looking up this number, but all i can find is a JP site talking about a rough start and the factory replacement. Please tell me the salvage yard sent me the right one, if not, im gonna go share a piece of my mind.
02-15-2010, 03:49 PM
#9185
So today in the mail i recieved a start i found. now im lost, because it doesnt have the numbers i thought would be there. instead it says N3Z1 then under that is M001T30471A. ive tried looking up this number, but all i can find is a JP site talking about a rough start and the factory replacement. Please tell me the salvage yard sent me the right one, if not, im gonna go share a piece of my mind.
02-15-2010, 04:11 PM
#9186
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No offense, but id rather simply ask the question than hunt through 368 some pages of stuff looking for it, call me lazy if you will, i call it time management. 
02-15-2010, 04:23 PM
#9187
I have another awesome problem to be diagnosed...so I started my car up to take it for a little ride around town since it hasn't moved for a couple weeks and it started up fine (well slowly considering its an '04 with the original starter) and I went back inside to let her warm up a bit. Well when I came back outside I noticed the obvious rough idle. The CEL was flashing so I decided to see if it would get less rough/less vibration when it warms up to normal temperature and it didn't. I have 57K on it and haven't even put 500 miles on it since buying it. I'm thinking it's plugs or coils (common trend here) and have already received the plugs but am afraid to replace them if it is something worse. Bring the comments! lol
02-15-2010, 06:11 PM
#9188
Jtaylor3- Since you let the car sit for awhile did you have the battery disconnected?
If so, the car can run "funny" for a couple drive cycles until it relearns the fuel trims.
But the spark plugs (as you know) should be the first item to replace.
Make sure you have 2 RE7C-L and 2 RE9B-T plugs.
Also verify the ignition wires didn't come loose. Its been known to happen.
I always pull the boot off the spark plug and reinsert them, and listen/feel for the "snap".
If so, the car can run "funny" for a couple drive cycles until it relearns the fuel trims.
But the spark plugs (as you know) should be the first item to replace.
Make sure you have 2 RE7C-L and 2 RE9B-T plugs.
Also verify the ignition wires didn't come loose. Its been known to happen.
I always pull the boot off the spark plug and reinsert them, and listen/feel for the "snap".
02-15-2010, 06:44 PM
#9189
The battery was never disconnected, but I already have the plugs cause I bought them like a month ago and I'm just waiting for a warm day to put them in since it isn't a quick process on the 8. I did try the wires because I have had moisture collect under the caps before and when they get cold the ice separates the cord from the plug but I saw no moisture and it seemed like a good connection...this just kinda freaked me out because it was out of nowhere and wasn't getting any better
02-15-2010, 08:37 PM
#9192
RX8 the Asian Alfa Romeo
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Plugs aren't that bad. 20 minutes-ish. Jack up the driver's side front, take the wheel off, and change 'em one by one. Just make sure you have a long extension for your ratchet!
02-16-2010, 07:13 AM
#9193
Trust me, you're wrong
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There seems to be an ongoing trend lately of people thinking the engine on thier car is shot when it probably is just a minor mantenance issue.
Just an observation...
Just an observation...
02-16-2010, 07:16 AM
#9194
^Are you saying locally or the whole forum?
I agree that people in this forum tend to jump to conclusions, but locally I thought TJ's car was the only concern because it sounded REAL bad when he started it for us and got better once it warmed-up.
Did I sleep through something Brian... I know that's possible
I agree that people in this forum tend to jump to conclusions, but locally I thought TJ's car was the only concern because it sounded REAL bad when he started it for us and got better once it warmed-up.
Did I sleep through something Brian... I know that's possible
02-16-2010, 07:24 AM
#9195
Trust me, you're wrong
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Just on the whole forum in general. I've noticed it a lot more lately that people are jumping to conclusions and it turns out to be something simple as plugs or a leaky oil filter seal or something.
02-16-2010, 07:32 AM
#9197
I agree with ya bad.
I get aggravated when I'm trying to help someone troubleshoot their issue and narrow it down, then some uneducated **** stain comes on and goes, "YOUR ENGINE IS TOAST" "GET A COMPRESSION TEST" "BLAH BLAH BLAH".
It appears like basic troubleshooting has been thrown out and its turned into, "Buy this, this, this, and this and your problem *should* be fixed"
I get more pissed off than an albino person trying to hitch-hike in a snow storm.
I get aggravated when I'm trying to help someone troubleshoot their issue and narrow it down, then some uneducated **** stain comes on and goes, "YOUR ENGINE IS TOAST" "GET A COMPRESSION TEST" "BLAH BLAH BLAH".
It appears like basic troubleshooting has been thrown out and its turned into, "Buy this, this, this, and this and your problem *should* be fixed"
I get more pissed off than an albino person trying to hitch-hike in a snow storm.
02-16-2010, 07:47 AM
#9198
Jon and Brian: Get used to this trend. Because of the resale value and age, many of the '04s and '05s have become affordable to a "new" market segment.
Its not about discussion, its about being right (believing that your right), or faster in a street race, and trying to impress people with your skills via the internet.
I feel the same way about some of these issues... the problem is apathy. I just don't care enough to care.
Its not about discussion, its about being right (believing that your right), or faster in a street race, and trying to impress people with your skills via the internet.
I feel the same way about some of these issues... the problem is apathy. I just don't care enough to care.
02-16-2010, 07:50 AM
#9199
The devil made me do it
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I really like how more and more people are saying "Hey this is broken" but forget to say "Hey I just changed this." Having 1/10th of the information always helps in the troubleshooting process. </sarcasm>
