Akron/Cleveland 8 Owners.
#9302
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Location: Cleveland, OH
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#9303
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Location: Strongsville, Ohio
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The one thing I would add is that the new Bold and Curve 8500 use a trackpad instead of the roller ball. Picture a mini version of stupid slider thing they put on laptops to use instead of a mouse (I suck at using it, therefor it is stupid).
Since I'm responsible for forcing the Curve down the throats of all of our attorneys here (we bought nearly 60 of them), I hear about all the likes and dislikes, and I'm hearing that those that have replaced their old units with new ones that have trackpads really like the pads much better than the buggy trackballs.
Get the BB, Doc. I think I was telling you about how great they were when we were at Paladar, just before Joe dropped 20 oz of Brazilian beer in my lap.
#9308
It's Not Easy Being Green
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Location: Akron, OH
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Iphone, it has cool apps. I'll give it that, oh and touch screen. But I still can't imagine texting is the most accurate yet. It's on the AT&T network, which is still having trouble adjusting to the mass number of iphone users and really isn't ready honestly. It is a slower network and has taken upwards of months to just get photo messaging to work after iphone was released (eeeeek). Like John said, tethering is a pain with the iphone and requires hacking. But you can talk and browse the internet at the same time.. woot?
AT&T has great cell coverage and very good all round coverage of the Cleveland/Akron area. I can't speak for the 3G coverage but I have edge access everywhere I have cell access and with WiFi its rare I'm not on the Interwebz with very good speed.
EDIT: They have shitty cell coverage in some big cities and just as bad as everyone else in certain boonies (better than Spring, wore than Verizon). ATT also has a big edge over the others if you plan on travelling out of country. My old ATT phone worked fine in Europe. Verizon phones dont.
The original iPhone still doesn't have MMS (picture messaging). Only 3G enabled phones got it. ATT had Apple do that to reduce load on their Edge network and Apple agreed because people email images with their iphones so they don't need MMS (tho I still wish I had it).
But the points RE: tethering and business apps remain valid. For business use get a Crackberry. iPhone email security is still not good enough for most workplaces whereas Crackberries make that their first priority. Texting on the iPhone is just as quick and easy as T9 but no where near as good as qwerty which is what is all the rage with the texting kiddies these days.
Frankly if tethering is your main draw I'd get a crackberry. iPhone is played out anyway.
Last edited by RK; 02-19-2010 at 12:29 PM.
#9309
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Location: Strongsville, Ohio
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If you go with a BB it doesn't matter which provider you go with. World Edition and Storm BB's will work internationally with Verizon as well. I think parts of South and Central America are the only exception. You have to make sure to buy add the international package before you go and cancel it when you return.
#9313
good ole' wankel spanking
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TJ: Sounds like you're really having a rough go of it. . . And you mean to tell me your in an Automotive major at Toledo and you don't even have access to a set of tools? That's crazy.
Also, I can confirm that you did not have the upgraded starter. However, that's not the primary issue right now. I would say clean the MAF, get the correct tools to swap the coils, and get that puppy started. It might be worth it to pull the CEL Codes also. I'm sure you're getting a mis-fire and some other codes hidden behind your CEL for your midpipe. Does Toledo have an OBD scanner?
Also, I can confirm that you did not have the upgraded starter. However, that's not the primary issue right now. I would say clean the MAF, get the correct tools to swap the coils, and get that puppy started. It might be worth it to pull the CEL Codes also. I'm sure you're getting a mis-fire and some other codes hidden behind your CEL for your midpipe. Does Toledo have an OBD scanner?
good news: i got MAF cleaner spray and i cleaned the MAF sensor and swapped the coils out.
bad news: still didnt start, it turned over a lot healthier sounding, idk how to word it properly, but it just wouldnt start. i tried holding the gas to WOT and cranking it multiple times along with starting it normal, and it just wouldnt start. im hoping its only flooded, but when attempting to start it it sounded better than before we swapped coils. anyone any other way to deflood an engine without having to tow it to a dealer?
#9316
Grasshopper
iTrader: (1)
TJ- Tow-start the car.
1) Have you key in the 'ON' position
2) Hold down the clutch pedal and have your car in 2nd or 3rd gear (just not 1st gear).
3) Have a vehicle tow/pull your car to 10-15 mph
4) Pop the clutch
5) Once the car starts, press the clutch in since the other vehicle is still towing you.
6) COMMUNICATION IS KEY: Have a sign (light flashing your lights) letting the other vehicle know you've started and to start braking.
7) Once both vehicles have stopped, remove the tow straps and let your car run for roughly 5 minutes.
Now I've done this without another vehicle by letting the car roll down a slight incline, but you need to go fast enough and preferably no other cars on the road in case something happens.
1) Have you key in the 'ON' position
2) Hold down the clutch pedal and have your car in 2nd or 3rd gear (just not 1st gear).
3) Have a vehicle tow/pull your car to 10-15 mph
4) Pop the clutch
5) Once the car starts, press the clutch in since the other vehicle is still towing you.
6) COMMUNICATION IS KEY: Have a sign (light flashing your lights) letting the other vehicle know you've started and to start braking.
7) Once both vehicles have stopped, remove the tow straps and let your car run for roughly 5 minutes.
Now I've done this without another vehicle by letting the car roll down a slight incline, but you need to go fast enough and preferably no other cars on the road in case something happens.
#9317
good ole' wankel spanking
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TJ- Tow-start the car.
1) Have you key in the 'ON' position
2) Hold down the clutch pedal and have your car in 2nd or 3rd gear (just not 1st gear).
3) Have a vehicle tow/pull your car to 10-15 mph
4) Pop the clutch
5) Once the car starts, press the clutch in since the other vehicle is still towing you.
6) COMMUNICATION IS KEY: Have a sign (light flashing your lights) letting the other vehicle know you've started and to start braking.
7) Once both vehicles have stopped, remove the tow straps and let your car run for roughly 5 minutes.
Now I've done this without another vehicle by letting the car roll down a slight incline, but you need to go fast enough and preferably no other cars on the road in case something happens.
1) Have you key in the 'ON' position
2) Hold down the clutch pedal and have your car in 2nd or 3rd gear (just not 1st gear).
3) Have a vehicle tow/pull your car to 10-15 mph
4) Pop the clutch
5) Once the car starts, press the clutch in since the other vehicle is still towing you.
6) COMMUNICATION IS KEY: Have a sign (light flashing your lights) letting the other vehicle know you've started and to start braking.
7) Once both vehicles have stopped, remove the tow straps and let your car run for roughly 5 minutes.
Now I've done this without another vehicle by letting the car roll down a slight incline, but you need to go fast enough and preferably no other cars on the road in case something happens.
just thinkin out loud here, i've push started cars before and what not, but wouldnt this do like horendous damage to your tranny and what not? its one thing to push a car and pop the clutch to get it going cuz theres no force still pulling it, but if a car is till tuggin it along at 10mph when you pop it isnt that really bad?
#9321
Grasshopper
iTrader: (1)
If the dealer only charges for a deflood, expected between $100-$150.
But most will say, "Well the starter is outdated, so thats $335. And you don't have a cat installed, so we need to charge $1600 for a new one. Spark plugs can be bad so lets add $195. Oh and since the coils are used and probably bad, why not add $200 for that. Lets not forget about the battery too! And once you recovered from your blackout, then we'll talk about the labor cost!"
Now if you're willing to shell out that kind of money, I might consider driving out to you and get the car started for 1/2 the cost.
#9322
good ole' wankel spanking
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You give up too easily
If the dealer only charges for a deflood, expected between $100-$150.
But most will say, "Well the starter is outdated, so thats $335. And you don't have a cat installed, so we need to charge $1600 for a new one. Spark plugs can be bad so lets add $195. Oh and since the coils are used and probably bad, why not add $200 for that. Lets not forget about the battery too! And once you recovered from your blackout, then we'll talk about the labor cost!"
Now if you're will to shell out that kind of money, I might consider driving out to you and get the car started for 1/2 the cost.
If the dealer only charges for a deflood, expected between $100-$150.
But most will say, "Well the starter is outdated, so thats $335. And you don't have a cat installed, so we need to charge $1600 for a new one. Spark plugs can be bad so lets add $195. Oh and since the coils are used and probably bad, why not add $200 for that. Lets not forget about the battery too! And once you recovered from your blackout, then we'll talk about the labor cost!"
Now if you're will to shell out that kind of money, I might consider driving out to you and get the car started for 1/2 the cost.
1) find someone to tow or push my car (very unlikely at toledo) although there is a pretty large hill on campus but it'd be a haul if we had to push it there.
2) if i cant get the car started, my dad has to rent a trailor and come pick it up with his Avalanche (same as when clutch pedal went).
-the problem is that since its not running i dont even know how we can get it on the trailor if he were to come with the trailor so that leaves having a flatbed come all the way out here and bring it to cleveland. so i was seeing if the dealer would be the more cost effective choice. im thinkin not though.
-so i'm in quite a pickle right now, that whole paying you to come out is starting to look pretty good haha.
Last edited by rotareriot; 02-20-2010 at 01:30 AM.
#9323
Grasshopper
iTrader: (1)
When I first flooded my car, I had the original starter, battery, coils, and bad spark plugs.
It took over an hour to get the car started, but I finally got it.
I just never gave up and cranked the **** out of it.
Get some jumper cables and hook it to another vehicle as if you were jump starting your car, and keep trying to start the car.
Don't crank it for more than 10 sec at a time (though I've gone longer if the car sounds like it really wants to start).
It might take a LONG time, but its possible to do.
And once you get it started, give it SLIGHT gas (no more than 2K RPM) for a good 5 sec to keep it from stalling.
Then slowly let off the accelerator so it smoothly gets to idle.
Think you can manage this one
It took over an hour to get the car started, but I finally got it.
I just never gave up and cranked the **** out of it.
Get some jumper cables and hook it to another vehicle as if you were jump starting your car, and keep trying to start the car.
Don't crank it for more than 10 sec at a time (though I've gone longer if the car sounds like it really wants to start).
It might take a LONG time, but its possible to do.
And once you get it started, give it SLIGHT gas (no more than 2K RPM) for a good 5 sec to keep it from stalling.
Then slowly let off the accelerator so it smoothly gets to idle.
Think you can manage this one
#9324
good ole' wankel spanking
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When I first flooded my car, I had the original starter, battery, coils, and bad spark plugs.
It took over an hour to get the car started, but I finally got it.
I just never gave up and cranked the **** out of it.
Get some jumper cables and hook it to another vehicle as if you were jump starting your car, and keep trying to start the car.
Don't crank it for more than 10 sec at a time (though I've gone longer if the car sounds like it really wants to start).
It might take a LONG time, but its possible to do.
And once you get it started, give it SLIGHT gas (no more than 2K RPM) for a good 5 sec to keep it from stalling.
Then slowly let off the accelerator so it smoothly gets to idle.
Think you can manage this one
It took over an hour to get the car started, but I finally got it.
I just never gave up and cranked the **** out of it.
Get some jumper cables and hook it to another vehicle as if you were jump starting your car, and keep trying to start the car.
Don't crank it for more than 10 sec at a time (though I've gone longer if the car sounds like it really wants to start).
It might take a LONG time, but its possible to do.
And once you get it started, give it SLIGHT gas (no more than 2K RPM) for a good 5 sec to keep it from stalling.
Then slowly let off the accelerator so it smoothly gets to idle.
Think you can manage this one
i only cranked it for a max of like 5-7 seconds cuz after id stop it'd reak of gas in my engine bay and i was afraid i was making the flooding worse, so id crank for like 7 seconds, then hold down the gas and crank a little while at the fuel cutoff, then go back to tryin to start it and so forth. all while my friend was revvin it a bit to help out. was that not good of me to do?
#9325
Grasshopper
iTrader: (1)
Honestly... I never hold down the accelerator pedal to deflood.
I would say if after a good 10 attempts it doesn't start, then do that once just to clear out the chamber and start again.
BUT... if the car really sounded like it wanted to start, you SHOULD NOT STOP... KEEP GOING... YOU ALMOST HAD IT!
Only if the "almost starting sound" disappears after a few more attempts should you "start over" and clear out the chamber.
And just keep on repeating until you get it.
...or save yourself time and grief and tow-start it.
Many people here use that technique for a deflood... I'm not just pulling that out of my ***.
I would say if after a good 10 attempts it doesn't start, then do that once just to clear out the chamber and start again.
BUT... if the car really sounded like it wanted to start, you SHOULD NOT STOP... KEEP GOING... YOU ALMOST HAD IT!
Only if the "almost starting sound" disappears after a few more attempts should you "start over" and clear out the chamber.
And just keep on repeating until you get it.
...or save yourself time and grief and tow-start it.
Many people here use that technique for a deflood... I'm not just pulling that out of my ***.