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Old 02-20-2010, 01:44 AM
  #9326  
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Originally Posted by Jon316G
Honestly... I never hold down the accelerator pedal to deflood.
I would say if after a good 10 attempts it doesn't start, then do that once just to clear out the chamber and start again.
BUT... if the car really sounded like it wanted to start, you SHOULD NOT STOP... KEEP GOING... YOU ALMOST HAD IT!
Only if the "almost starting sound" disappears after a few more attempts should you "start over" and clear out the chamber.
And just keep on repeating until you get it.

...or save yourself time and grief and tow-start it.
Many people here use that technique for a deflood... I'm not just pulling that out of my ***.
okay i can try having my friend jump it again, would it be bad to give it a little gas while its cranking if it feels like its about to start? or would that hurt matters
Old 02-20-2010, 01:50 AM
  #9327  
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Originally Posted by rotareriot
would it be bad to give it a little gas while its cranking if it feels like its about to start? or would that hurt matters
It would make it more difficult to start.
Its injecting gas into a chamber with excessive gas in it already.
Trying to add even more is definitely not going to work.
Only give it slight gas ONCE it starts and be prepared for it to sound horrible... well kinda like it did at your house before... so you should be used to it by now

Now if you want, you can try spraying starter fluid through the throttle body to help ignite the gas.
Or better yet, spray it into the maintenance ports on the lower intake manifold.
That might help.
Old 02-20-2010, 01:54 AM
  #9328  
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Originally Posted by Jon316G
It would make it more difficult to start.
Its injecting gas into a chamber with excessive gas in it already.
Trying to add even more is definitely not going to work.
Only give it slight gas ONCE it starts and be prepared for it to sound horrible... well kinda like it did at your house before... so you should be used to it by now

Now if you want, you can try spraying starter fluid through the throttle body to help ignite the gas.
That might help.
ugghh that means i have to take the accordian tube off again..... that things a pain. but i can try it. ill steal some starter fluid from my garage and bring it back to toledo since im home in cleveland this weekend. so i just give it a good spray directly into the throttle body?
and i do have a question about the CEL, steve asked if i was still getting a flashing CEL today after the coils were swapped out, would that show up if the key is just turned to "ON"? or would it do it while im trying to start it? cuz it obviously cant do it while its running currently.
Old 02-20-2010, 01:57 AM
  #9329  
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Originally Posted by rotareriot
ugghh that means i have to take the accordian tube off again..... that things a pain.
Just spray it through the maintenance ports on the lower intake manifold.
Simple as that.

Originally Posted by rotareriot
and i do have a question about the CEL, steve asked if i was still getting a flashing CEL today after the coils were swapped out, would that show up if the key is just turned to "ON"? or would it do it while im trying to start it? cuz it obviously cant do it while its running currently.
Don't worry about what codes its generating, its obviously going to throw codes because the car isn't starting.
Old 02-20-2010, 02:03 AM
  #9330  
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Just spray it through the maintenance ports on the lower intake manifold.
Simple as that.
hah oookay, ill go look up where those are

Don't worry about what codes its generating, its obviously going to throw codes because the car isn't starting.
okay good cuz i couldnt remember for the life of me if it was throwin a code or not, wasnt concerned at the time.
Old 02-20-2010, 02:07 AM
  #9331  
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Originally Posted by rotareriot
hah oookay, ill go look up where those are
Passenger side near the washer fluid reservoir.
I have my washer fluid reservoir removed for easier access.
Old 02-20-2010, 02:13 AM
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hah thanks Jon, is it necessary to remove the resovoir to get to it? and i was reading your windshield washer deflood DIY, would that be easier for me to do since i dont know anyone to tow start my car in toledo?
Old 02-20-2010, 02:23 AM
  #9333  
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Originally Posted by rotareriot
hah thanks Jon, is it necessary to remove the resovoir to get to it?
It makes the job easier.
There are only two nuts at the top of the reservoir, then it lifts up and out of the way.
Why not spend the extra 10sec to make your job easier.

Originally Posted by rotareriot
and i was reading your windshield washer deflood DIY, would that be easier for me to do since i dont know anyone to tow start my car in toledo?
If spraying the starter fluid doesn't work (and give it a good couple dozen times before giving up) then try it if you feel comfortable.
You would already have access to the maintenance ports at this time.
Just remember that the vacuum caps need to be installed if the car starts.
Old 02-20-2010, 02:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Jon316G
If spraying the starter fluid doesn't work (and give it a good couple dozen times before giving up) then try it if you feel comfortable.
You would already have access to the maintenance ports at this time.
Just remember that the vacuum caps need to be installed if the car starts.
so after i remove the vacuum caps and spray the starter fluid into both ports, if the car starts do i have to put the caps on right away? will it affect the way the car runs at all if i let it idle without them when it starts? and how much starter fluid you thinkin i should put in each port? just spray it for a couple seconds?
Old 02-20-2010, 02:29 AM
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Spray for a couple seconds in each port, reinstall the caps, then try starting.
Old 02-20-2010, 02:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Jon316G
Spray for a couple seconds in each port, reinstall the caps, then try starting.
okay got it, i feel like we've talked about so many aspects of this that if i cant get this damn thing to start on monday i should just forget its there. although my parents did sit me down for a nice chat tonight "advising" me to sell the car once its running again because its a "money pit". there tryin to reason with me to sell it first since i bought the car on my own, but sadly there gonna get the final say since its not in my name cuz i was a minor when i bought it. i need to show em my car isnt just good for breaking when your in a hurry.
Old 02-20-2010, 02:38 AM
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The thing is you have an '04 and all the common issues that came with it
Once you resolve those issues, its not that bad.
With my new battery (Optima), upgraded starter, upgraded coils, and normal maintenance such as oil changes and spark plugs, I haven't had any issues with the car.

Last edited by Jon316G; 02-20-2010 at 01:03 PM.
Old 02-20-2010, 02:46 AM
  #9338  
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Originally Posted by Jon316G
The thing is you have an '04 and all the common issues that came with it
Once you resolve those issues, its not that bad.
With my new battery (Optima), upgraded starter, upgraded coils, and normal maintenance such as oil changes and spark plugs, I haven't have any issues with the car.
yeahhhh ive tried countless times to explain how rotaries flood and why, why you need upgraded starters and need to be very conscientious about how you maintain it and everything but all i get back is that my car has cost me more money then both there cars combined, even though they bought theres new, mine sits outside year round, i have the first production year model, and i have an engine with about 1/2 the research time behind it compared to theres its an uphill battle anytime i even mention somethin about my car.
Old 02-20-2010, 06:08 AM
  #9339  
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Jon - Here are some of the pictures from the DIY I posted about the install I did. I can tell you that I have moved the Axxess box from this location already to the section between the HU and glove box because of overheating problems I was having with the unit.

http://devilboi.crackmonkey.us/e107_...s.php?album=73
Old 02-20-2010, 10:22 AM
  #9340  
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is anybody having a problem with their hood warping? i have been noticing more and more warps in my hood. some look like it was hit with a fist or hail and others look like its wrinkling. only thing i can think of that might be causing this is that i dont have a heat shield on my hood and the heat from the engine is causing it warp? (thin metal getting frozen in the snow then heated by the engine repeatedly?)
Old 02-20-2010, 11:23 AM
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Originally Posted by DeViLbOi
Jon - Here are some of the pictures from the DIY I posted about the install I did. I can tell you that I have moved the Axxess box from this location already to the section between the HU and glove box because of overheating problems I was having with the unit.
That's interesting....
Will have to rethink this, or maybe use conformal coating on the circuit board to help with the temp changes.
Thanks!
Old 02-20-2010, 11:43 AM
  #9342  
"13B vs. Renesis" Discuss
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Tj. Dibs on your momo wheels if you have to get rid of the car. Lol.

Sure, a honda would be easier. But jon raises a good point, this can be very reliable, but it takes some work.

I see your parents point because I flooded my car real bad and was late to work. Jon had to come down and help for 10 min. But now I've learned and can deflood better than new orleans.
Old 02-20-2010, 02:00 PM
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Hey you boyzzz.

Well I just finished putting the front O2 sensor I got from Steve last week. I'm happy to report that after 4 driving cycles my CEL has not come back on! Thanks a ton Steve!

I also did Jon's reset (tapping the brake pedal fast until the needle sweeps) just for good measure...

Now if I can just get the auto leveling headlight warning light to shut off with out spending $550 for the sensor... Anyone know what wire to clip to get that light to turn off??

Last edited by Stig; 02-20-2010 at 02:07 PM.
Old 02-20-2010, 04:49 PM
  #9344  
"13B vs. Renesis" Discuss
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Nice work stig. Have someone with long skinny arms to get to that wiring harness?

I have my autolevling sensor light on, and I think brian does too. Its caused by water being trapped in a poorly designed wiring harness. It can be cleaned or hardwired or replaced.
Old 02-20-2010, 05:27 PM
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I wish! I managed to get my arms back in there but it was a tight squeeze for sure. Only one cut on my wrist and bit of cursing and I got the job done. It helped to see on your donor where the O2 came off the wiring harness. Now I have to replace the same thing on my wife's Lexus but it is right up front so easy easy easy compared to the 8

Originally Posted by Vyndictive
Nice work stig. Have someone with long skinny arms to get to that wiring harness?
Old 02-20-2010, 06:09 PM
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I tried posting this in the main "exterior" forum, got no responses.....

I picked up a used mazdaspeed rear bumper/diffuser, but its missing the 3 green brackets. Unfortunately, the Mazda install paperwork (from DIY section) only calls it out as "bracket A" and "bracket B", making it impossible for the local dealership <cascade> to find for me.

Any ideas on how to source these parts given they dont appear to have a part #?
Any ideas for a "work around" to these missing parts? (I got the other misc fasteners and dbl sided tape from autozone).

mazdaspeed rear underspoiler install guide. (edited)
http://www.hi-impact.org/ryang/modif...8_bodykit.html

Thanks,
Nate

Last edited by ngill33; 02-21-2010 at 08:17 AM. Reason: thread not working
Old 02-21-2010, 07:41 AM
  #9347  
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Nate,

None of us have body kits really, so its not an issue we've really encountered before.

However, having removed the rear bumper before, I can say that the system of fasteners and such can't be too hard to manipulate to work if you have some extra clips or hardware.

I think what you're going to have to do is just see how well it attaches as it sits right now, and then come up with another way to fasten the loose spots.

Your link was broken, so I don't exactly know what you're talking about also.

Plus that 3M double sided tape is strong stuff... I bet you could get away using that.

But don't get that method confused with doing it "the right way".
Old 02-21-2010, 07:44 AM
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Im sure there is probably a part number in the shop manual somewhere
Old 02-21-2010, 08:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Vyndictive
Nate,

However, having removed the rear bumper before, I can say that the system of fasteners and such can't be too hard to manipulate to work if you have some extra clips or hardware.

I think what you're going to have to do is just see how well it attaches as it sits right now, and then come up with another way to fasten the loose spots.

Plus that 3M double sided tape is strong stuff... I bet you could get away using that.

But don't get that method confused with doing it "the right way".
Even though its a Mazdaspeed part, the install is kinda odd (link fixed). I have to hacksaw the bottom part of the original bumper off (right across the rotary emblem). I'm reluctant to make permanent changes without the proper mounting hardware. Good thing is that its not the whole rear bumper; its just the plastic area down around the exhaust. I guess I'll give another dealership a shot at finding the parts, then see if I can put something together myself.
Old 02-21-2010, 08:37 AM
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i was able to get that link to work. after looking at those brackets they are pretty simple to make and could do them at my work if you can give me the measurments on them. or you might be able to find something close enough to them at home depot/lowes and modify them as needed


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