Akron/Cleveland 8 Owners.
03-19-2010, 06:56 AM
#9751
Looks like this Friday is out for many and doesn't appear that anyone is meeting.
Hows Friday the 26th look for everyone? It would be great get a meet soon now that it looks like spring has arrived.
Snow tires are coming off, so it must be spring!
Hows Friday the 26th look for everyone? It would be great get a meet soon now that it looks like spring has arrived.
Snow tires are coming off, so it must be spring!
03-19-2010, 08:38 AM
#9753
RX8 the Asian Alfa Romeo
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Bratenahl, Ohio
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03-19-2010, 12:25 PM
#9756
It's Not Easy Being Green
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FWIW we average at least one snowstorm in April. Really don't recommend removing winter tires or putting away your winter beater until Tax day.
I know how badly I wanted to pull out the 8 last year around this time and a week later we had 3+ inches of snow.
I know how badly I wanted to pull out the 8 last year around this time and a week later we had 3+ inches of snow.
03-19-2010, 01:09 PM
#9757
Gophericer...?
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Brinkhaven, or Hudson
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I agree with Ryan the tax day rule is a good one, that i've always followed.(since we do live in Ohio)
I spotted another Red 8 at cascade Mazda anyone else's car took a dump on them? I threw my first check engine light at 25,000 miles dealer won't get me in until Monday
Only reason i'm willing to take it to the dealership is that i still have bumper to bumper for another month. Really glad I didn't start premixing yet otherwise i'd blame the premix or think that I used a bad ratio. Car has no loss of power and seems as good as ever. Only think i noticed was past 2 weeks car when first started sounds like it is bridge ported. And reeks of burning oil like twice as much as usual. Also after startup while idling will sometimes *cough* one puff of bluish smoke.
Steve just texted me suggesting i make an autozone trip. Will be right back with engine code.
I spotted another Red 8 at cascade Mazda anyone else's car took a dump on them? I threw my first check engine light at 25,000 miles dealer won't get me in until Monday
Only reason i'm willing to take it to the dealership is that i still have bumper to bumper for another month. Really glad I didn't start premixing yet otherwise i'd blame the premix or think that I used a bad ratio. Car has no loss of power and seems as good as ever. Only think i noticed was past 2 weeks car when first started sounds like it is bridge ported. And reeks of burning oil like twice as much as usual. Also after startup while idling will sometimes *cough* one puff of bluish smoke.Steve just texted me suggesting i make an autozone trip. Will be right back with engine code.
03-19-2010, 02:01 PM
#9758
Gophericer...?
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Brinkhaven, or Hudson
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It was P0455 which is something is leaking with the fuel system. The guy at Autozone and Steve both are betting on my gas cap. Just to check for human error (Me) I took it off and put it back on and restarted the car and there is still the light. Soooo either it'll take a lil bit for the light to realize that the gas cap is tighter (felt fine) or there really is a leak somewhere.
Thanks Steve for your phone support!
Thanks Steve for your phone support!
03-19-2010, 02:53 PM
#9760
SHKWAV
So, at the end of Oct we always get some sunny 70 degree days. we call them "Indian Summer". What do we call the last days in march or april, after spring is "officially" here, when we get snow? (besides suckage)
03-19-2010, 05:39 PM
#9762
03-19-2010, 10:49 PM
#9766
Gophericer...?
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03-20-2010, 10:22 AM
#9767
RX8 the Asian Alfa Romeo
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Bratenahl, Ohio
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I'd say gas cap too, I replaced mine last year after getting the same code. If you want to stop by Kent some M-F your welcome to stop by school and I'll hook up my code scanner and shut the light off for you if it doesn't turn it self off.
03-20-2010, 06:14 PM
#9768
Today was a productive day for me.... and I feel dumb for a couple things.
1) First thing I did was removed the passenger side door paneling to troubleshoot why my window wasn't going down.
I measured ~10V to the motor and I took apart the sub-switch, and it measured OK.
Even applied 12V to the motor and it spun.
Looking through the electrical diagram we saw that the current flows from the driver's side switch to the passenger side sub-switch, so we were going to tackle that side next.
My dad opened the driver's side door and looks down, then says "your car has window locks?"
I say, "yeah... but I never use it..."
That's when he presses the button and realizes it was pressed down!!!
After a few curse words I stomped back to the passenger side and connected the motor... and the bitch spun!
2) Ran the compression test on my car and had the same issue I encountered with Steve's car... it only read about 25psi.
Sprayed contact cleaner into the transducer and sprayed it with compressed air, that didn't help.
Then I moved the cable to R2 (used for testing both rotors at the same time) and I received a higher reading).
I went through the whole calibration process for both ports and ran the test, R1 still showed ~25psi while R2 showed ~90-95psi.
Whats also interesting is that R2 didn't start at 0, it kept starting at -19.38psi.
So technically I'll just have to add 19.38 to my readout to get my total psi.
Then normalize the values for 250RPM (once I calculate what my RPM was).
I'll do that later... I'm beat.
But that doesn't explain the difference between R1 and R2, so I'll try to recalibrate it again and try it on another car (since I'm sure I'll be working on one soon).
If that doesn't work I'll have to contact the manufacture and go from there.
3)Since I was down at the spark plugs I decided to swap those out with the new plugs I got from Summit.
4)I hooked up my oil separator plate for the temp and pressure sending units.
Pressure appears good (that was the new wire I had to buy), but my temp gauge wasn't reading anything (lowest on the gauge was 50C).
I attached a Fluke meter to it and measured the two wires using its thermocouple setting and it was reading 18C.
Touching the Fluke's probes together I also got 18C so that means the sensor isn't reading anything.
I ordered a radiator hose so I can RTV the coupler for the temp sensor and not worry about leaks.
So next weekend when I install the temp sensor, I'll revisit the oil temp wiring and probably solder the wires this time.
5) With my shifting problems (fearing pilot bearing or transmission) I already ordered a new oil seal, installation tool, and a blind hole slide hammer.
I wait until all this is paid for to start looking back at the basics, so I measured the clutch pedal and found the stroke was off.
Once I dialed that in I started moving the push rod in.
Its now to the point where my shifting is MUCH smoother and it doesn't appear that I have to drop the tranny.
My clutch engages roughly 1/4" up with the push rod turned out quite a bit, almost half the threads are turned out.
So I'll drive it a few more times and see how that works out, but I don't like how far out the push rod is.
1) First thing I did was removed the passenger side door paneling to troubleshoot why my window wasn't going down.
I measured ~10V to the motor and I took apart the sub-switch, and it measured OK.
Even applied 12V to the motor and it spun.
Looking through the electrical diagram we saw that the current flows from the driver's side switch to the passenger side sub-switch, so we were going to tackle that side next.
My dad opened the driver's side door and looks down, then says "your car has window locks?"
I say, "yeah... but I never use it..."
That's when he presses the button and realizes it was pressed down!!!
After a few curse words I stomped back to the passenger side and connected the motor... and the bitch spun!
2) Ran the compression test on my car and had the same issue I encountered with Steve's car... it only read about 25psi.
Sprayed contact cleaner into the transducer and sprayed it with compressed air, that didn't help.
Then I moved the cable to R2 (used for testing both rotors at the same time) and I received a higher reading).
I went through the whole calibration process for both ports and ran the test, R1 still showed ~25psi while R2 showed ~90-95psi.
Whats also interesting is that R2 didn't start at 0, it kept starting at -19.38psi.
So technically I'll just have to add 19.38 to my readout to get my total psi.
Then normalize the values for 250RPM (once I calculate what my RPM was).
I'll do that later... I'm beat.
But that doesn't explain the difference between R1 and R2, so I'll try to recalibrate it again and try it on another car (since I'm sure I'll be working on one soon).
If that doesn't work I'll have to contact the manufacture and go from there.
3)Since I was down at the spark plugs I decided to swap those out with the new plugs I got from Summit.
4)I hooked up my oil separator plate for the temp and pressure sending units.
Pressure appears good (that was the new wire I had to buy), but my temp gauge wasn't reading anything (lowest on the gauge was 50C).
I attached a Fluke meter to it and measured the two wires using its thermocouple setting and it was reading 18C.
Touching the Fluke's probes together I also got 18C so that means the sensor isn't reading anything.
I ordered a radiator hose so I can RTV the coupler for the temp sensor and not worry about leaks.
So next weekend when I install the temp sensor, I'll revisit the oil temp wiring and probably solder the wires this time.
5) With my shifting problems (fearing pilot bearing or transmission) I already ordered a new oil seal, installation tool, and a blind hole slide hammer.
I wait until all this is paid for to start looking back at the basics, so I measured the clutch pedal and found the stroke was off.
Once I dialed that in I started moving the push rod in.
Its now to the point where my shifting is MUCH smoother and it doesn't appear that I have to drop the tranny.
My clutch engages roughly 1/4" up with the push rod turned out quite a bit, almost half the threads are turned out.
So I'll drive it a few more times and see how that works out, but I don't like how far out the push rod is.
03-20-2010, 06:24 PM
#9769
The devil made me do it
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Glad you got to everything today Jon and that you got most of your problems figured out. Wonder why your clutch pedal was so far off though. It shouldn't need adjusted like that normally...right?
03-20-2010, 06:34 PM
#9770
When I installed the new clutch I recall having to move the stoke out along with my pedal play.
When I looked at the clutch pedal assembly today it appears like the pedal should be able to move more forward (looking at the top bolt cutout), but I couldn't get it to move any further forward.
I think its been fucked-up all this time, I just got used to shifting with it.
And this would explain why you're afraid to drive my car
But I should also get my foglights by next weekend, so I'll just add that to my list of things to do.
Maybe I'll try the compression test again if I have time...
When I looked at the clutch pedal assembly today it appears like the pedal should be able to move more forward (looking at the top bolt cutout), but I couldn't get it to move any further forward.
I think its been fucked-up all this time, I just got used to shifting with it.
And this would explain why you're afraid to drive my car
But I should also get my foglights by next weekend, so I'll just add that to my list of things to do.
Maybe I'll try the compression test again if I have time...
03-20-2010, 07:17 PM
#9771
03-21-2010, 12:07 AM
#9772
Gophericer...?
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Brinkhaven, or Hudson
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Thanks Stig i hope that when I make the dealership replace it under warranty they will reset the light. If they don't that would be some bs and I will be over to have you reset it. Your in Kent right? I've driven through the town a few times always keeping a look out for you. Seen a few other Rx8s but not your yellow one. Have you ever met any of the other Rx8 owners there?
03-21-2010, 09:22 AM
#9774
Julanne
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Cleveland, Ohio
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03-21-2010, 09:25 AM
#9775