Akron/Cleveland 8 Owners.
07-30-2010, 07:09 AM
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Performance Mod!? 
But does it actually work? From my conversation with 7sonly, and what I've read, the problem is that the gears are not deep enough and the keys ultimately wear don't fit properly. (I may be paraphrasing this incorrectly, but that's the gyst). I'm not sure that has anything to do with the shifting length......or does it. Geez, you need to be an automotive engineer to run one of these damn things.
But does it actually work? From my conversation with 7sonly, and what I've read, the problem is that the gears are not deep enough and the keys ultimately wear don't fit properly. (I may be paraphrasing this incorrectly, but that's the gyst). I'm not sure that has anything to do with the shifting length......or does it. Geez, you need to be an automotive engineer to run one of these damn things.
Last edited by docgatorx8er; 07-30-2010 at 07:33 AM.
07-31-2010, 09:20 PM
RX8 the Asian Alfa Romeo
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08-02-2010, 07:11 AM
Trust me, you're wrong
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^^^Rear O2 sensor.
You were running the car without a cat for a little bit while trying to diagnose what was wrong with the car. The sensor picked up that there wasn't a cat on the car, a soft fault ws recorded. It possibly went through enough "drive cycles" (turn on and turn off car) to detect a hard fault. One there was a recorded hard fault the CEL was turned on by the ECU.
Reset it and see if it comes back on in a few days...
Sometimes it will take up to 3 days for my CEL to come on after I take off my cat from racing, and vice versa. I have put my cat on my car and not cleared the code before, ran 2-3 day events with the cat on and the CEL on, and it takes a while for the code to clear by itself. If I clear the code and leave my cat on, it stays off until I take it off.
With my mid pipe section I will have my cat go on and off intermittently.
You were running the car without a cat for a little bit while trying to diagnose what was wrong with the car. The sensor picked up that there wasn't a cat on the car, a soft fault ws recorded. It possibly went through enough "drive cycles" (turn on and turn off car) to detect a hard fault. One there was a recorded hard fault the CEL was turned on by the ECU.
Reset it and see if it comes back on in a few days...
Sometimes it will take up to 3 days for my CEL to come on after I take off my cat from racing, and vice versa. I have put my cat on my car and not cleared the code before, ran 2-3 day events with the cat on and the CEL on, and it takes a while for the code to clear by itself. If I clear the code and leave my cat on, it stays off until I take it off.
With my mid pipe section I will have my cat go on and off intermittently.
08-02-2010, 08:33 AM
Well, dropped my 8 off the stands yesterday and decided it was time to see how everything went...
Other than a residual CEL that cleared after 2 drive cycles and an airbag light from a loose connection under the seat, everything appears to be doing fine. Starts, runs, drives, stops, and hasn't fallen back on the ground (so i guess the suspension works). Drove roughly 40 miles without incident. The only thing is that my Racing Beat oil pressure gauge has a crimp in it someplace and doesn't read properly anymore.
So, time to get serious about the car search as things with work are looking better and better.
I am planning on coming to the August 20th meet now that things have settled down a bit... for now.
Other than a residual CEL that cleared after 2 drive cycles and an airbag light from a loose connection under the seat, everything appears to be doing fine. Starts, runs, drives, stops, and hasn't fallen back on the ground (so i guess the suspension works). Drove roughly 40 miles without incident. The only thing is that my Racing Beat oil pressure gauge has a crimp in it someplace and doesn't read properly anymore.
So, time to get serious about the car search as things with work are looking better and better.
I am planning on coming to the August 20th meet now that things have settled down a bit... for now.
08-02-2010, 09:09 AM
RX8 the Asian Alfa Romeo
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Yea it took about 3 days for it to come on after putting everything back together. I cleared the code yesterday and have done 3 driving cycles so far. Checked it this morning and the same code is now showing as "Pending" so may just have a bad rear sensor. It's probably the original one with 120,008 miles on it as of this morning. At least it is RUNNING now. The front O2 sensor is from the Steve's donor so that has far less miles on it than the rear for sure.
^^^Rear O2 sensor.
You were running the car without a cat for a little bit while trying to diagnose what was wrong with the car. The sensor picked up that there wasn't a cat on the car, a soft fault ws recorded. It possibly went through enough "drive cycles" (turn on and turn off car) to detect a hard fault. One there was a recorded hard fault the CEL was turned on by the ECU.
Reset it and see if it comes back on in a few days...
Sometimes it will take up to 3 days for my CEL to come on after I take off my cat from racing, and vice versa. I have put my cat on my car and not cleared the code before, ran 2-3 day events with the cat on and the CEL on, and it takes a while for the code to clear by itself. If I clear the code and leave my cat on, it stays off until I take it off.
With my mid pipe section I will have my cat go on and off intermittently.
You were running the car without a cat for a little bit while trying to diagnose what was wrong with the car. The sensor picked up that there wasn't a cat on the car, a soft fault ws recorded. It possibly went through enough "drive cycles" (turn on and turn off car) to detect a hard fault. One there was a recorded hard fault the CEL was turned on by the ECU.
Reset it and see if it comes back on in a few days...
Sometimes it will take up to 3 days for my CEL to come on after I take off my cat from racing, and vice versa. I have put my cat on my car and not cleared the code before, ran 2-3 day events with the cat on and the CEL on, and it takes a while for the code to clear by itself. If I clear the code and leave my cat on, it stays off until I take it off.
With my mid pipe section I will have my cat go on and off intermittently.
08-02-2010, 09:18 AM
The devil made me do it
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Brian - What is the plan for this weekend? I'm on vacation spending time with Jocelyn but she wants to stop by and help with the tranny. I think we are getting a hotel in Pittspuke for Friday so I want to kinda plan out Saturday. I know we need to leave there by like 4 so we can get to another party before the UFC fight.
08-02-2010, 09:43 AM
Brian, I too need details as Jon needs the extra tall jack stands that I had... I'm planing on pretty much all day saturday, but I don't know if you're working that morning or what.
08-02-2010, 10:50 AM
Trust me, you're wrong
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As for what time, I have not discussed this with Jon yet. II'm not going in to work on Saturday as I want to keep the whole day open to make sure the job gets done properly without rushing anything.
I'll probably call Jon tonight or tomorrow and hash out a time with him for what works best. Once I talk to him I'll let you know.
I'll probably call Jon tonight or tomorrow and hash out a time with him for what works best. Once I talk to him I'll let you know.
08-02-2010, 10:57 AM
08-02-2010, 06:12 PM
Other than a residual CEL that cleared after 2 drive cycles and an airbag light from a loose connection under the seat, everything appears to be doing fine. Starts, runs, drives, stops, and hasn't fallen back on the ground (so i guess the suspension works). Drove roughly 40 miles without incident.
If I don't answer that probably means I am out repairing something, so just leave me a message and I'll call you back when I get back to my desk.
I finally received my capacitors for the dead HDMI board on my Onkyo receiver.
Got all the 100uF caps soldered on and now have to wait until morning to test it out.
I didn't install the 220uf or 470uF caps because I wanted to see if this corrected it.
But I have them just in case it still doesn't work.
The tall caps are the new ones in the pics below.
08-02-2010, 06:26 PM
hmmm... should have held onto the donor trans for a few more months...
j/k Jon
In other irrelevant news, I just got back from test driving a 2011 GTI. . . I don't know how they made 200hp so BORING!
Salesman: "Do you hear how solid the door sounds when you close it?"
Me: "The door closes on my Bronco and it makes a thud, it's going to take more than that to impress I'm afraid"
It definitely wasn't good enough to justify dealing with VW quality issues as well as roughly 3-5k more on the price over a speed3.
j/k Jon
In other irrelevant news, I just got back from test driving a 2011 GTI. . . I don't know how they made 200hp so BORING!
Salesman: "Do you hear how solid the door sounds when you close it?"
Me: "The door closes on my Bronco and it makes a thud, it's going to take more than that to impress I'm afraid"
It definitely wasn't good enough to justify dealing with VW quality issues as well as roughly 3-5k more on the price over a speed3.
08-02-2010, 06:42 PM
Trust me, you're wrong
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FYI:
Transmission for sale:
Approx. 70k on it, no grinding in any gears, fully functional when r:lolemoved from car.
Comes with stock shifter already in place. Can deliver within 100 miles.
$250 or best offer. I have it in my posession right now. Act fast before time expires. Void where prohibited. Offer not valid at all stores.
Anyways,
Doc, if you are available you can swing down on Saturday so you can get an idea of what we are going to do to you your car once you get the new trans to your house. hehehehe :evilgrin:
Transmission for sale:
Approx. 70k on it, no grinding in any gears, fully functional when r:lolemoved from car.
Comes with stock shifter already in place. Can deliver within 100 miles.
$250 or best offer. I have it in my posession right now. Act fast before time expires. Void where prohibited. Offer not valid at all stores.
Anyways,
Doc, if you are available you can swing down on Saturday so you can get an idea of what we are going to do to you your car once you get the new trans to your house. hehehehe :evilgrin:
08-02-2010, 06:54 PM
FYI:
Transmission for sale:
Approx. 70k on it, no grinding in any gears, fully functional when r:lolemoved from car.
Comes with stock shifter already in place. Can deliver within 100 miles.
$250 or best offer. I have it in my posession right now. Act fast before time expires. Void where prohibited. Offer not valid at all stores.
Anyways,
Doc, if you are available you can swing down on Saturday so you can get an idea of what we are going to do to you your car once you get the new trans to your house. hehehehe :evilgrin:
Transmission for sale:
Approx. 70k on it, no grinding in any gears, fully functional when r:lolemoved from car.
Comes with stock shifter already in place. Can deliver within 100 miles.
$250 or best offer. I have it in my posession right now. Act fast before time expires. Void where prohibited. Offer not valid at all stores.
Anyways,
Doc, if you are available you can swing down on Saturday so you can get an idea of what we are going to do to you your car once you get the new trans to your house. hehehehe :evilgrin:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mvZgwtpPmLY
08-03-2010, 06:02 AM
Well... good news and bad news with my receiver...
Good news: My HDMI switching issue was fixed.
I was able to switch through all my HDMI ports just fine.
Bad news: I did not have audio through any of those ports!
I was able to pass-thru the audio to the TV and actually receive it.
So I'll take the board back to work and replace the other caps.
I also read through an Onkyo service bulletin that details how to perform this fix.
Another thing they mention (besides the cap replacement) is to add capacitors across a few voltage regulators (probably as a filter), which would have been nice to know because I could have ordered those too.
Then I noticed another PCB next to the HDMI board that has some markings on them.
Looks like I might have scratched a couple traces on that board trying to remove the HDMI board.
This board has the digital and optical audio ports, so not sure if the HDMI audio passes through this board or not.
I'll have to take this board to work also and see if it can be repaired.
Good news: My HDMI switching issue was fixed.
I was able to switch through all my HDMI ports just fine.
Bad news: I did not have audio through any of those ports!
I was able to pass-thru the audio to the TV and actually receive it.
So I'll take the board back to work and replace the other caps.
I also read through an Onkyo service bulletin that details how to perform this fix.
Another thing they mention (besides the cap replacement) is to add capacitors across a few voltage regulators (probably as a filter), which would have been nice to know because I could have ordered those too.
Then I noticed another PCB next to the HDMI board that has some markings on them.
Looks like I might have scratched a couple traces on that board trying to remove the HDMI board.
This board has the digital and optical audio ports, so not sure if the HDMI audio passes through this board or not.
I'll have to take this board to work also and see if it can be repaired.
08-03-2010, 08:48 PM
Well... the PCB did have some trace damage.
Measuring between two test point, there was no continuity.
Had to repair that... which doesn't look the prettiest, but I had continuity afterwards.
The second scratch didn't actually damage the trace, just the board mask.
Applied mask to both areas and will try it out when I get home.
Didn't install the other caps because I want to do one thing at a time to narrow down what really caused my issues.
Its possible installing the 100uF caps fixed my original issue, but me damaging that trace created the no sound issue.
We'll see....
Measuring between two test point, there was no continuity.
Had to repair that... which doesn't look the prettiest, but I had continuity afterwards.
The second scratch didn't actually damage the trace, just the board mask.
Applied mask to both areas and will try it out when I get home.
Didn't install the other caps because I want to do one thing at a time to narrow down what really caused my issues.
Its possible installing the 100uF caps fixed my original issue, but me damaging that trace created the no sound issue.
We'll see....
08-04-2010, 05:48 AM
My Onkyo reciever it now working!!! 
Looks like replacing the 100uF caps fixed the HDMI switching issue, while fixing the trace damage corrected my clumsiness while removing the board, which gave me no audio.
Looks like replacing the 100uF caps fixed the HDMI switching issue, while fixing the trace damage corrected my clumsiness while removing the board, which gave me no audio.
Last edited by Jon316G; 08-04-2010 at 05:57 AM.