ProZack

2004 RX8 Automanual

My son reported the car stopped running when pulling out of the grocery store parking lot.
He pushed it back into a parking spot.
Car would not start when I arrived.
I thought the battery was low, so I hooked it up to my truck to jump it.
Noticed a loose battery cable and tightened it.
I was able to get the car started, but it was very rough and would not stay running unless I kept my foot on the gas pedal.
I drove it 5ish miles home shifting to neutral when I had to stop.
Almost no power in 1st gear, but able to get up to 25mph after shifting up to 2nd/3rd.
Parked it for a week and a half while I searched the forum and tried to figure out the problem.
Since I only bought the car for my wife in the fall, I have no idea when the plugs were last changed.
I did see a blinking CEL light and determined that the plugs and wires were probably the issue.
Ordered the NGK plugs and wires.
When I went to change them I turned the car “On” and turned the stock radio on to have some tunes while doing the work. (sound system is stock)
Pulled wheel, changed one plug and one wire at a time, paying close attention to the L/T markings and the plug part numbers.
Easy cheesy.
When I went to start the car… it would only buzz and whirr.
I checked and triple checked both plug ends of each wire and even pulled the part of the coils that has the little spring in it to check and re-seat them.

Additional info: the plugs were black (see pics) and the rear T plug had fluid in it when I removed it.
The engine seems to spin, but no “bang.” (see video)

Any wisdom?


Thanks. I had to post in here, even though I’ve been lurking for a while, I just signed up for an account.

Pz

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

What about your coils? New plugs and wires don't mean much if the coils aren't generating an electrical charge to send.

Coils plugs and wires should be changed at the same time, about every 30,000 miles.

The starter also sounds like you are cranking pretty slow.

Other options it could be if we get some more info:
- Compression failure (2004 automatics are the worst for this)
- Fuel pump failure (are the plugs wet after cranking without firing?)
- Engine block ground corroded (current has to get back to the battery)
- E-shaft sensor fouled (the ECU might not know when to fire the coils, inject the fuel)

Pick up an ignition coil tester at your local autoparts store, looks like this:


Check for spark on each wire.

ProZack

I plan to jump it tonight to see if the battery is just too low, but didn't have my jumper cables available last night.

As far as the coils being bad, at least some of them were ok before the plug/wire change, because I was able to start it and back it up into the driveway to do the plug work.

Would they all fail in a day and not give me any spark?

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

You have 2 coils, plug wires, and plugs per rotor. It is possible to start and run with only 1 of each pair working. Having only one set working will quickly kill the other set on the same rotor. This is because preventing the coil from properly discharging the spark and the coil will die from internal heat pretty fast, and if only one ignition set on a rotor is firing, the hugely rich result will quickly foul up the plug that is firing, and start overheating the coil.

Chances are, the ignition was neglected for quite a while, and you have been having trouble that just wasn't recognized, and it finally gave up the ghost. If this is all true and you have a catalytic converter on, that's probably pretty clogged up at this point as well.

Felix_Wankel_fan88

Mod Edit:
Criticizer car selection isn't helpful while troubleshooting a problem.

ProZack

Tried jumping the car at lunch. no love.

Local parts stores only have 2 coils in stock, so I guess I need to order some.

Should I have them order 2 more of the AutoZone brand @ 28.99 or is there something better?
I thought I read something about some coils that give a better kick to burn off extra fuel and prevent flooding.

I wonder if it's flooded...

Pz

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Yes, it's probably flooded at this point

As long as it's exact fit, and matches this:


You are fine using those coils. They are the original revision coils that make up most of the coils out there, and need replacing every 30k or so. The 'up-to-date' coils are $50+ each, and we don't really know how long those last.

zoom44

well first check to see if you are getting any spark. sounds to me like it has no compression BECAUSE its flooded. See when that car first stalled on your son it flooded. its been flooded ever since. the fuel has washed away the oil film that keeps the apex sealed at start up. so until you have known good spark AND done the deflood procedure you wont be able to diagnose any other issue. except for visually inspecting the cat by dropping it and looking inside. battery is fine at the moment as you can hear the starter is spinning fine and turning the motor.

MsDenise

I had something similar happen (car only running when stepping on the gas, if I slowed down it would stop-that progressed into the car not even being able to do that after a few days). What I had to do was change the plugs, coils, and wires. I also had to have my engine decarbed thanks to all the misfires.

BigCajun

iTrader: (1)

Hi MsDenise,
Was that all you had done?
Did your dealer do the decarb
Sorry for rerouting, OP.

ProZack

Decarb?

That doesn't sound good. If you look at the pictures my plugs were black and covered in soot.

I'm off to search that out, as it could be in my future...

This weekends honey do list:
1) Check spark
2) Deflood process
3) kill cat
4) put the 8 on the Adkins diet...

Let's hope I can stop at #2 :D

monchie

^ Don't stop, keep going...lol

ProZack

Well, I managed to feel the engine "bang" so I assumed I had spark and proceeded to deflood the engine.

I did manage after 1.5 hours to get it to start and smoke up the neighborhood, but it would get pretty rough near idle speeds and finally died when I tried to let her idle.

Seemed to be extremely rough at lower rpms.

So I decided to go ahead with the ignition coil replacements.

Had to drive to multiple AutoZones to get 4.

Went home and installed them at lunch.

Started right up! sheesh.

Warmed the engine up in park then took it for a high rpm drive and a wash.

Thanks for the help.

I have a different issue that I post in a new thread.

pz

ProZack

Also, the hesitation off the line and the rough shift into 2nd are gone.

Forgot mention that I cleaned the MAF and Temp sensors with CRC MAF cleaner.

Couldn't get the air box open to change that, but found some posts on it so that'll get done soon too.