Shakeywarrior

2004 Mazda rx8 AT tranny. Engine was replaced by previous owner and she had told me she barely put 30,000. Everything had been stock no mods at all. (Single mom)

What I've done to it. First I did a full tune up which is ignition coils, spark plug wires, and also start plugs. Also replaced air filter and clean the throttle body(was barely dirty). Before the car was stalling like crazy and wouldn't stay on and that fixed it 90%. (That was about 10,000 miles at most)

The car would idle roughly and would sometimes stall still. Looking through forums I decided to replace my cat along with the 02 sensor. Worked great! Car wouldn't stall anymore and stopped idling roughly.

About a week after the engine light pops up P2096. I took it to my local autozone and found the code (only code popping up) so I guess it means to much oxygen is getting in and not enough fuel. I use premium gas as recommended. I haven't cleaned the MAF sensor or the IAT which is what I'm gonna do first. The only thing I've noticed with the problem is the car isn't as repsovive sometimes but usually it works perfectly fine. When the air is on the car idles roughly but doesn't stall and it's less responsive compared to when it's off. If anyone has anymore recommendations please let me know! Tomorrow I'm going to clean the sensors and see what happens.

I actually ended up cleaning it tonight and it was dirty, I'm going to disconnect the battery to reset the car and see if it turns back on.

Shakeywarrior

I took it for a drive and after cleaning the sensors the idle is actually rough now. Not as much as its falling in rpm and it's gonna stall just rough. Also the light is back on even after resetting and as before it gets worse when a/c is. Also when I go to take off it sounds worse but ends up stopping as I get into higher rpm

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

Most common cause for that code is a vac leak. Check the manifold and injector seal areas with some brake clean

Shakeywarrior

okay when I do that what will happen? Will the rpm rise or lower? I also heard using throttle body cleaner would work as well is that true?

Shakeywarrior

so the car isn't idling roughly or anything after cleaning the MAF. But now I noticed the air in idle isn't cold then goes to being cold then doesn't again. When I'm driving it stays cool then gets colder as I drive more but when I stop it goes back to being warm. Then If I keep the air on and I'm in idle for to long the car actually starts to overheat. But when the air isn't on the car stays at its operating temp and doesn't idle rough at all. The car doesn't sound like it's gonna stall in any of this happening and when the air is on the rpm starts going from 500 to 1000 then sits at the normal rpm then it happens again. I just noticed this today. Anyone have any clue on what's happening?