Are 04's avoided?
#1
Are 04's avoided?
I've done a lot of scouring through this site trying to get as much information as possible before I make a purchase. I've found an 04 with 40k miles on the body, and 3k on a new engine (installed by dealer). Is warranty expiration the primary reason that people avoid this year?
There's also an 05 with 78k for a little less. The first seems like the obvious choice, especially because it's fully loaded with nav. Am I wrong in assuming that?
Also, would it be necessary to get a compression test on a new engine if they have paperwork?
Thanks!
There's also an 05 with 78k for a little less. The first seems like the obvious choice, especially because it's fully loaded with nav. Am I wrong in assuming that?
Also, would it be necessary to get a compression test on a new engine if they have paperwork?
Thanks!
#2
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That new, no I wouldn't bother with a compression test. Compression is still rising from the engine break-in anyway.
If you have a replacement engine, nearly all of the 2004 drawbacks are already resolved, no reason to avoid it at that point.
If you have a replacement engine, nearly all of the 2004 drawbacks are already resolved, no reason to avoid it at that point.
#3
SARX Legend
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Well the fact that it had an engine replacement is good. But if I were buying a series I RX-8 I would buy an 07-08 so that it would have a bit of time with warranty. You will have no warranty on the 04' if that engine fails unless you buy an extended warranty. Reliability wise all of the 03-08 RX-8's are the same.
#5
Moder8
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Share prices and pictures to get good advice.
I have an 04 with 120K, engine replaced at 30K. Runs like a bat out of hell, caught porsches and a vette at the track. 21 MPG back and forth to work.
Just do the $100 Thread stuff in my signature to clean it up when you get it.
But, share prices so people can help.
I have an 04 with 120K, engine replaced at 30K. Runs like a bat out of hell, caught porsches and a vette at the track. 21 MPG back and forth to work.
Just do the $100 Thread stuff in my signature to clean it up when you get it.
But, share prices so people can help.
#6
Went to drive it tonight. Loved it! We agreed on 8900, very clean, no rust, just a few scratches and nicks. I would have brought it home, but he didn't have the correct title (still showed a lien, which he says was paid). So, he's working on getting the right paperwork to solidify the deal.
#7
kevin@rotaryresurrection
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Went to drive it tonight. Loved it! We agreed on 8900, very clean, no rust, just a few scratches and nicks. I would have brought it home, but he didn't have the correct title (still showed a lien, which he says was paid). So, he's working on getting the right paperwork to solidify the deal.
#8
kevin@rotaryresurrection
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But to answer your question, "that type of buyer" is afraid of 04's more so than 05-08s. You know the type...the ones who are used to buying near-flawless cars from dealership lots, research edmunds reviews, reliability reports and gas mileage projections online when deciding what car to buy rather than just buying what they like the most, etc.
The reason the 04's have a worse reputation is (IMO) simply because they are the oldest (so logically they average more miles than the later models, and thus more problems) and there are so many more of them than 05-08s, so you hear of more 04 issues. The only real difference in them was the PCM flash and the "slow" starter, all the hardware is identical, so the avoidance is kind of odd to me.
The reason the 04's have a worse reputation is (IMO) simply because they are the oldest (so logically they average more miles than the later models, and thus more problems) and there are so many more of them than 05-08s, so you hear of more 04 issues. The only real difference in them was the PCM flash and the "slow" starter, all the hardware is identical, so the avoidance is kind of odd to me.
#10
I hear you, rotary. I'm not really the type of person that feels guarded by a warranty. Better than nothing, I suppose, but I wouldn't want to pay a big premium for an extra 1-2 years. Thanks for the input.
#12
I've been doing some more reading, and I'm a little concerned about the hot start. The engine cranked for a few seconds3-4?) before catching. I confirmed with Mazda that it did receive a new engine, but actually has closer to 7,500 on it. Should I be concerned enough to postpone the sale and get a compression test?
#13
#14
Congrats on the new purchase. As long as you do the maintenance on time or early you will be fine.
My fiance's RX8 has 115K miles on the original motor and it still runs tip top.
My fiance's RX8 has 115K miles on the original motor and it still runs tip top.
#15
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Test it yourself. Go see it while it's cold, fire it up yourself. Let it fully heat up, shut it off, test the hot start too. If it is noticeably longer starting hot, then get a compression test. If they are both just as slow, then factor in a new starter and/or new battery.
#17
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^+1
You also may want to ask how many miles the ignition components have (spark plugs, wires, coils). I assume that everything was changed when the engine was replaced but you never know. Ask for maintenance records.
You also may want to ask how many miles the ignition components have (spark plugs, wires, coils). I assume that everything was changed when the engine was replaced but you never know. Ask for maintenance records.
#18
Thanks for the advice. I'm requesting a compression test. I, just nervous a bad cat or something may have caused a premature failure on this new replacement. I'm fine with covering the cost of a starter, converter, and coils, I'd just rather not have to replace the engine on a 9k car..
Does Mazda extend the engine warranty when an engine is replaced?
Does Mazda extend the engine warranty when an engine is replaced?
#19
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Engine replacements only get a separate warranty if it was replaced outside of warranty and the owner paid for it out of pocket. If it was replaced under warranty, it is only covered up to the ending point of the warranty that covered the replacement.
Keep in mind you are looking for pretty even numbers front to rear and between faces. Compression might continue to increase a bit as the engine gains in mileage, but if there is a significant difference on 1 rotor vs the other, or 1 face vs the other rotor faces then yeah, something is wrong for a rebuilt engine. I'd still recommend the hot vs cold start test before a compression test.
Keep in mind you are looking for pretty even numbers front to rear and between faces. Compression might continue to increase a bit as the engine gains in mileage, but if there is a significant difference on 1 rotor vs the other, or 1 face vs the other rotor faces then yeah, something is wrong for a rebuilt engine. I'd still recommend the hot vs cold start test before a compression test.
Last edited by RIWWP; 10-27-2013 at 01:03 PM.
#20
Thanks. It did start well after cooling for about 20 minutes or so when I tried it, then started harder than I would have expected when hot. I didn't think a whole lot of it, but then started doing some research on the hot start. I asked him and he confirmed that it does only start like that when hot. That's what worries me.
I'm also worried that my badgering may cause the buyer to move on. I guess the search would continue should that happen.
I'm also worried that my badgering may cause the buyer to move on. I guess the search would continue should that happen.
#21
It's been a looong week. I should hear the results of the compression test today. I'll post them here as soon as I hear something. If everything works out, I should be in the car tonight!
#22
Here are the results! Sorry for posting then in 2 threads, trying to coordinate a pickup on a time crunch.
Rotor 1 (220rpm)
6.9
6.9
6.5
Rotor 2 (221rpm)
6.8
7.0
6.6
Thanks!
Rotor 1 (220rpm)
6.9
6.9
6.5
Rotor 2 (221rpm)
6.8
7.0
6.6
Thanks!
#24
kevin@rotaryresurrection
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IT's a bit weak, but that's honestly what I expect to see from most every rx8 I would test that doesn't have a low mileage rebuild. You've probably got a year or 2 with it that way.
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