05 Rx8 Shinka, dies when warms up! Why??!!
#1
05 Rx8 Shinka, dies when warms up! Why??!!
Hello RX8 people! I have an 05 Shinka. Had it about 2 years. It has about 100k miles. Earlier this year the car starting acting up...sometimes it would not start...just cranks. So, I replaced spark plugs, cleaned throttle body, air filter...and it seemed to run better. A month later it died and couldn't start it...just cranks. I decided to replace the fuel pump, driver's side and bought one from Autozone. (Totally separate, have you seen two fuel pumps in one car??? I saw an 07 and 04 Rx8 in the junkyard and there were 2 fuel pumps, one under each back seat!!! What's that??).
After replacing fuel pump it started to run again.
NOW, can't drive it! When cold, car starts up...once it warms up, in about 10 mins, engine will die, every time! Have to wait for it to cool before starting. Help! I did have engine light on...codes described problems with 1. 02 sensor (bank 1), 2. secondary injection pump malfunction, and 3. misfiring.
Now, my next wave of replacements are: I replaced fuel pump, again (just in case, no charge), replaced all 4 ignition coils, replaced mass air flow sensor, replaced upstream 02 sensor, replaced engine temperature swith, cleaned throttle body.... I forgot to mention, I removed catalytic converter w/ resonator...tried flushing it out (in reverse direction) with a garden hose...the water came out pretty fast...it doesn't look clogged.
I put it all back together...it started up, sounds pretty good when still cold...but, when engine temperature gets warm the idle starts acting funny, RPMS go low and then dies. Try to restart it...and it only cranks. It doesn't even try to start... I let it cool off and it will start!
No smoke comes out of exhaust...I can revv it up easily...it is very consistent... What do you think is the problem????
ALSO, it is an automatic... I have replaced the battery earlier this year. I have not checked the engine compression... Could the throttle body position gizmo on the side that rotate the plate be a problem? - I see coolant lines passing though the body.
Thanks, need to solve this before winter hits!!!!
After replacing fuel pump it started to run again.
NOW, can't drive it! When cold, car starts up...once it warms up, in about 10 mins, engine will die, every time! Have to wait for it to cool before starting. Help! I did have engine light on...codes described problems with 1. 02 sensor (bank 1), 2. secondary injection pump malfunction, and 3. misfiring.
Now, my next wave of replacements are: I replaced fuel pump, again (just in case, no charge), replaced all 4 ignition coils, replaced mass air flow sensor, replaced upstream 02 sensor, replaced engine temperature swith, cleaned throttle body.... I forgot to mention, I removed catalytic converter w/ resonator...tried flushing it out (in reverse direction) with a garden hose...the water came out pretty fast...it doesn't look clogged.
I put it all back together...it started up, sounds pretty good when still cold...but, when engine temperature gets warm the idle starts acting funny, RPMS go low and then dies. Try to restart it...and it only cranks. It doesn't even try to start... I let it cool off and it will start!
No smoke comes out of exhaust...I can revv it up easily...it is very consistent... What do you think is the problem????
ALSO, it is an automatic... I have replaced the battery earlier this year. I have not checked the engine compression... Could the throttle body position gizmo on the side that rotate the plate be a problem? - I see coolant lines passing though the body.
Thanks, need to solve this before winter hits!!!!
Last edited by Buckykenmore; 11-15-2016 at 02:51 PM. Reason: An addition
#2
You have to get your engine's compression tested. Note that a rotary compression test is NOT THE SAME as a compression test for an ordinary engine, it must be performed by a Mazda (or some other rotary-savvy) mechanic who has the right gear and knows how to do it.
I suggest you get the test, if you haven't already, before you spend another penny.
I suggest you get the test, if you haven't already, before you spend another penny.
#3
///// Upscale Zoom-Zoom
NY is correct - get the Mazda rotary-specific compression test performed - $150 or less (bargain down to $99 if you agree on potential dealer fixes).
#4
I totally hear you guys. Thank you for the quick responses... I'm gonna try a few things and I'll let you know how it goes... By the way, I couldn't make it to a Mazda dealer, as it is. ;(
Thank you.
Thank you.