Been around about 5 years when I need a reference, but time to post...

I have a 2005 bought with 26000 miles on it. 5 years later it is up to 46000 miles. Here's where it gets..... Interesting. The wife and I don't drive it much as you can see. You all can imagine my surprise when I took it in for it's last service. we are nearing the end of our warranty so i told the Mazda guys to go through it. I knew the climate control needed replaced, but found out it also needed front and rear sways, new motor mounts, new cat-convert, and surprise-surprise... A NEW MOTOR! AT 46000 MILES!!! I'm really glad I got the warranty. See pics. AHHHH! So after reading over and over I picked up a BHR midpipe and ignition system. Mazda was nice enough to install them for me when they reassemble the 8.

 

This is at a Mazda dealer? factory warranty or extended? I only ask because dealers typically are not allowed to open up engines covered under warranty. The fact that it died at 46,000 is not surprising sadly for a 4 port auto, possibly due to excess carbon build up but they can fail for many reasons.

But from those pics, carbon up doesn't seem extreme but it's hard to tell.

 

Extended warranty, not factory. It's stripped because the EW company insisted on sending an inspector. I had to agree to cover the $900 labor if the inspection didn't warrant a new engine.

So the Service Manager at Mazda said I would be getting a new engine. He said they do not reair them or install remans. I just read on another newb thread that there's no such thing.... and that I have to watch the coolant system due to sealant. WTH? Help me out here. I'm about to make a stern phone call.

 

There are no new engines for Series1, possibly Series2, only remans.

And yes, the remans often cause cooling system failures between 3,000 and 8,000 miles after installation due to excess sealant used inside the engine. You may be safe, you may not. I don't actually know the failure rate.

However, virtually all reports of remans that fail with less than 15,000 on the reman fail due to a cooling system failure, and many more reports of cooling system failures that are caught in time before the remain suffers damage from that.

With proactive preventative maintenance, you can avoid this problem. Crossing your fingers might work too, but it isn't very useful.

 

Ah okay, but you are not getting a new engine, Mazda does not make new engines. Better get that clarified.

Edit: damn it Pearl, beat me to it.

 

Looks I need to really start doing some research on here. I'm fumbling a bit on the search...

So what's the best oil for these beasts? LOL! My heads already spinning..

 

Any good brand oil in a (0W30,5W30. 10W30 or 0W40,5W40, or 10W40)will be fine, just make sure you change it often. And drive this thing hard when possible, make sure everything gets good and warm when you drive it.

 

Good to have warranty

I'm kinda questioning why you need new sway bars though, the front bar in the picture looks regular. It's not exactly a wear item... :/

 

I assume they mean bushings unless the bars are rusted.

 

I was a little thrown by this too considering the mileage of the car and it is garaged 90% of the time its parked. I guess with warranty they replace the whole unit. You are correct it is not a wear item. If it where the warranty wouldn't cover it. Either way, my EW deductible is $200 so the more new parts the better at this point!

 

Thanks for the input. I think I remember reading on here that the recommended oil (5W20?) is causing issues with the American RX8's. Then I read something about diesel oils... head spun off... then I spent 3 hours reading oil threads! I run Amsoil in my bike and Pro Street because I love them, Royal Purple in my G35X and Integra because wife is a coupon nerd, and Shell Rotella in my 12V Cummins because I get it free.

I'll talk to the Service Manager and see if this motor has a warranty. If it does, I'm sure they will insist on their oil recommendation. If not I'll buy whatever the owner here recommend.

 

Yeah the dealer recommends 5W20 but the two huge oil tanks behind the dealer I used were both stocked with 5W30 and 10W30. I took pics in case they ever tried giving me **** for using non recommended oil. My buddy worked at another dealer locally and it only stocked 10W30.

But even a good 5W20 is fine as long as you change it often. The biggest issue with most 5W20 is that it just gets contaminated and broken down too quickly so long iol change intervals are not recommended.

 

Hey umm, i know this is odd, but since ur 8 is being fixed up, could you do me abit of help, since they took off your drive shaft(propeller shaft, the one that connects from the tranny to the diff) could you like see if theres a rubber seal that connects from the tranny to the propeller shaft?. if there is could you quickly take a pic of it?. cuz mine is kind of leaking at the moment and im assuming that my rubber seal is wearing out, i never saw how the seal looked like but if you could send me some pics or some info on that rubber seal id be really gratefull

 

Also since you are installing a BHR midpipe, is it a catless?.

 

Scroll down to RX-8.

Foxed.ca - Mazda RX-7 Manuals

 

9krpmrx8

Thanks alot bro!!, i guess this was what i was looking for. although i mean, if possible id like to see the actual thing. since mine is a 2005 manual

 

Yes it is catless.

It is a resonated midpipe :D better than the flimsy cat ill switch mine out for smog any day than lose my engine. Had my car for two years and been 10k miles on the new engine for me since.

 

You can get a BHR midpipe with a cat.

 

When the MP & IS arrive I'll drop them off and snap you some pics. Also, 9krpmrx8 is correct regarding the catless/resonated pipe.

Anyone else need any exploded view pics?

 

i see. i was thinking of going catless too, however i was concerned about having engine lights (CEL), back pressure and all other stuff popping out, since im running stock ecu. basically is it safe to run catles on all stock without any problems?. just asking cuz i too am considering a future without cat hahaha esp since emission isnt a big thing here yet :p

 

Thanks so much bro. cuz i need to be sure how it looks like and so that i know what to buy ^^ getting parts is a bit of a tricky here since its hard for me to tell what part it is. i just wanted to get the right part and do a proper fix.

 

So the car spent 5 of the 12 warranty months on this new to me motor install at Mazda. I'm less than impressed with their ability.

Mazda service advised me to buy a mid-pipe, then couldn't get the CEL to got out. They tried 2 different sniffers then decided a POS autozone converter was a better solution. Needless to say I'm a little bent about dropping $450 + shipping on the Black Halo Mid-pipe wall decoration i now have.

Is there a good company for flashing the CEL code for good? Otherwise I just need to sell this mid-pipe. My wife was not a fan of the smell, but it did run smoother!

 

Sorry about the pics. the car was off the lift every time I went back.

 

The only way to mask the CEL is to use a Cobb AP. I know some mid-pipes on some 8's don't throw the code, but I know mine does. The AP's usually sell on the for sale section for about 400. The MazdaEdit program might be able to do it as well, but I'm not 100% sure on that one. Hopefully one of the other more senior member can chime in on that.

 

Better hold onto that midpipe, you're probably going to need it again.
Most people say aftermarket cats don't last.
I clear my occasional CEL with the Torque app for Android.