Bowtie4Life

First of all, being a member of over 20+ forums, I can understand the problem with spam and forums. I can understand the 10 post requirement, but 30 days to make a thread? Ridiculous, as I feel I won't get the help that I am going to need because my post isn't in the proper sub-forum to achieve the most optimum views. I have used the search button and very familiar with it. If a mod could send this to the appropriate subforum, it would be greatly appreciated.

I bought a 2004 Mazda RX8 with 160,000 miles. I knew that it had a blown motor. I did not know how much of a pain these damn RX8's are!!! So, I purchase a JDM 30k mile engine. Spend almost 30 hours dropping it in, from the top, with the transmission still in the car.

I go to start it and it blows white smoke, but not bad. Figured condensation in the exhaust or some nature. Drive it around my shop a couple times. Never getting into it toooo much. Maybe max 4k rpms. Temperature and Oil pressure was perfect. Too my surprise the cluster was like a Christmas tree but no check engine light aka no codes thrown. Than about 15 minutes after it started, it just dies. It won't restart till about 10-20 minutes later, but it starts right up. Than dies 15-20 mins later. I do NOT burn any oil or anti-freeze. Any ideas as to where to start?

Few questions (May answer them myself after further searching or may add more after further searching):
Are JDM motors direct swaps into the US Mazdas?
Could this be computer related? Specific checksums that would cause the car to shut down?
What compression should I be at?

I took a pretty lengthy video that is still uploading via youtube. The car did sit for a good month without being started when I took the video which may be why it didn't start right up.

Any help and I will be

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

It just restricts where you can make a thread, it doesn't restrict replying to threads, searching them, etc... very few members have a problem with the restriction, and those that do tend to not fit very well here anyway.

The New Member subforum actually gets lots of attention, but it gets the attention without the constant newbie bashing and severel lack of tolerance that used to be pervasive on this forum. The people that don't have the patience for new member questions just stay out of here and things are far smoother all around.

Plus it is typical that at least a few of the knowledgeable people are watching posts as they are created (https://www.rx8club.com/misc.php?product=vblive), so getting attention to your thread is rarely a problem, regardless of where it is. It's been working just fine, so it's going to stay in place.



Moving on...


That sounds like a fuel pump failure. Fuel pump overheats and shuts down abruptly. Typical fuel pump failure also allows starting in 15-20 minutes as if nothing was wrong, once the fuel pump cools down. The other typical cause in similar cases is compression failure, however it typically won't start for longer as the cool down takes longer, and it struggles to start once you try during a mid-cooldown start up.


JDM motors are physically the same, as long as you have the same configuration (Series 1 4-port, Series 1 6-port, Series 2 6-port). It's the electronics that are hugely different.

If you get a compression test, you need to be above 6.9 kg2cm on each of the 6 rotor faces, the higher the better.

Bowtie4Life

I'll be doing a compression check tomorrow with a follow up. However, I am having a hard time believing that a 30k engine would have compression issues unless there are other reasons why it would that I am not aware of.

As for the fuel pump, seems very plausible that this is the issue. Will a stand alone fuel system tune up be detrimental to a rotary engine? I am talking about the stand alone system where you disconnect the fuel lines, pull the fuel pump fuse and run a compressed form of gas (in an aerosol type canister) through the fuel system. I am thinking: run the car till it dies, hook the fuel tune up really quickly and see if it starts. This is how I check for fuel pump issues in Piston engines but I just want to dot my i's and cross my t's before I mess with something I have very little knowledge of.

Also, reviewing part 2 of the video, I remembered that after doing a few high RPM revs (4k-6k), the car began to blow white smoke out the exhaust. I am familiar with the smell of anti-freeze, and this was not that. It smelt more along the lines of something burning. Any ideas as to what that may be?

Heres part 1 of the video: I didn't want to make the video too long so after 9 minutes I shut it off. It proceeded to die 7 minutes later but still in the same temp zone. If anything lower than what it is at the 9 minute mark. I am uploading part 2 now which is significantly shorter, but has a little more information that may be helpful to solving my issues.
Sorry in advanced to the shaking, hard to drive while holding a camera steady.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

The OEM fuel pump can fail reasonably as early as 60, and by 120k it is more likely than not that the pump might have failed.

No, using an alternate gas shouldn't be a problem. The rotary runs on nearly everything, just avoid diesel for now There are better ways to test the fuel pump though. Google search: site:Rx8club.com test fuel pump


From the video:
- The lights on the dash all look normal. The TCS and DSC lights are from the battery disconnect, they will need to be reset with some mild driving. The coolant light is probably from a failing coolant bottle level sensor, common within 80k, so you are well over that.
- The cranking speed is REALLY low. If your battery is fine, you will need a starter replacement as soon as possible.
- Our temp gauge is a dummy gauge. It will move toward the middle as it warms up, stopping somewhere in the middle (exact position varies from car to car) around 170F. It won't move again till around 230F or so, although you can suffer engine damage from as low as 220F. It is not to be trusted at any point.


I'm still pointing the finger at the fuel pump.

Bowtie4Life

Reason for the alternate gas method, I have seen fuel pumps still work but not send enough pressure/volume. This method has never failed for me which is why I would rather go through the more hassle. But will definitely do more research.

I am hoping you are right. Maybe I'll finally be able to enjoy this car and blow it up to drop another motor in I greatly appreciate the help and will have an update tomorrow :D

Part 2 just in case:

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

The only reasonable partial pressure fuel pump failure mode is if it's leaking, but doesn't produce these symptoms and you would be commenting on a heavy fuel smell.

Our fuel pumps fail 100% off