Breck

Considering this car. Corvette place got it as a trade-in. Looks well kept. I'm guessing the motor hasn't been swapped or rebuilt yet and it's probably at the end of it's life. Any place in Dallas I could get a compression test done? Is it even worth it at this many miles? I guess if it doesn't show hot / cold start issues then it's probably good enough for at least a few thousand miles before needing a rebuild.

https://www.corvettewarehouse.com/20...-Texas/6694298

Funny thing tho, I talked to the sales guy quickly on the phone. He said someone put the gas pedal down trying to start it and it flooded. Not sure if that's BS. I'm guessing it might already have a cold start problem. Maybe I could get them to get rid of it cheap if the motor is already toast?

He said they sent it to their shop to get the plugs swapped and that it'll be back tomorrow.

I really like the similarities to the R3 - and would have no issue swapping in a reman from Mazda myself. Probably a long list of while you're in there parts tho that make that a unattractive proposition financially when starting at a 5k buying price.

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

Offer then 2K for it when it won't start... likely worth that 😁

CaymanRotary

Only way to know if it’s ok is to compression test. Based on the fact that they said he had the pedal down and that flooded it, already shows they have no idea what they have. Keeping the pedal down while cranking prevents fuel even going into the engine. It’s done to deflood the engine in fact... Typical Corvette people, they only know one car and everything else is alien to them haha. Tell them you’ll be generous and take it off em for $2,000 because you want it for “parts”.

furansu

Pedal to the floor during startup disables the fuel injectors, common logic on Mazda/Ford (and likely other brands) EFI cars. May be the engine is on its way out and someone flooded it by shifting the car and not letting it warm up.

Dealers spin BS, so don't trust any explanations on used cars. -- My RX-8 had evidence of hitting a curb, damaging the driver-side rocker panel, the two rear lateral arms on the driver-side, the rear driver-side wheel bearing, and deploying the side airbags. The dealer tried to claim the air bags deployed due to shoddy radio work yet the OEM radio and speakers were still in place. I already saw the other damage and surmised root-cause, but didn't care as I was getting the car for pretty damn cheap.

I love 40AE's, particularly for that lovely interior. I wouldn't pay more than 2,000$ for it given that rotary-specific compression test results are not available and initial evidence supports a worn engine. Other than that, the car looks great! Mazda remans are $2,900-$4,900 (usually closer to $3,300-$3,900 as long as your local Mazda dealer aren't total scumbags), then you are looking at $2,500-$4,500 for install if you don't plan to do the swap yourself. Factor these details into the total cost.

Breck

Thanks for the input guys. I might go check it out just for fun.

Curious what all the while you're in there stuff would add up to for a reman. I can do it myself.

I'm in Dallas and I can pick one up in Houston for $2874 + tax + core. Here's a list someone on reddit put together:
https://www.reddit.com/r/RX8/comment...reman_renesis/

So 3k on a reman + maybe 2k in ancillary stuff? Seem about right? All the sudden cars with recently replaced remans look much more attractive.

furansu

LOL -- that was my post! NotAPreppie, on this forum, has some fantastic notes on the reman process as well. Depends what is needed and how much you are willing to spend.


I had composed a fantastic list that I share with customers and inquiring minds alike, but I cannot find it at the moment, so I'll try to speak from memory... The reman should include a new flywheel, new water pump, new oil level sensor, and an exterior gasket set.

Components to test/clean/verify as operational
-(4) Test Intake solenoids for intake actuators and emissions, confirm electrical actuation and vacuum test
-(3) Clean intake valves (VDI, SSV, and AUX port actuator), confirm smooth movement and vacuum test actuators
-(6) Fuel injectors (WitchHunter does well), should include new o-rings
-All vacuum lines should be visually inspected and replaced if worn, cracked, brittle or leaking
-(4) Vacuum test oil injectors to assure they hold -10in-hg vacuum for greater than 20 seconds
-Inspect oil metering vacuum block for damage, replace as-needed
-Inspect wiring harness for damage; re-wrap factory wiring harness with 3M Super88 or better electrical tape.
-Inspect all wiring connectors for corrosion or damage, replace as needed.
-Clean ESS sensor as needed
-Inspect radiator cooling shrouds and insulation. Repair as needed. Use foam to close gaps between the radiator and shrouds. Zip-ties can be used to shore up the belly pan to the sub-frame if you don't want to replace the whole things.
-Secondary injection air pump, inspect for noise or rough operation during startup. May require bearing replacement, or SAI system delete using the RacingBeat block-off (will trip check engine light)
-Inspect midpipe cat for damage (look down inlet and verify matrix is in good shape. Look down second o2 sensor port to verify forward matrix and second matrix substrate is undamaged) -- if cat has broken apart, some pieces may be in the muffler, affecting air flow.

Components to replace every 5yrs/engine replacement
-New OEM Mazda coolant hose kit (11pcs), there are two kits, one for 2003-2004, another for late 2004-2011
-New OEM Mazda coolant bottle
-New OEM Mazda coolant cap
-New OEM Mazda radiator -- unless going with an all aluminum radiator as available from CSF
-New OEM Mazda oil injection lines
-New OEM Mazda thermostat
-Pre-Mixed OEM Mazda coolant (FL22)
-New OEM Mazda (or Exedy) replacement clutch, pilot bearing, and throw-out bearing
-Inspect transmission input shaft for leaks, replace seal with Mazda OEM as needed
-Inspect motor mounts for leaks or cracks/dryeot, replace as needed (a tall-tell sign motor mounts are worn is shift lock-out at high-RPM)
-Replace air filer with new OEM or AEM upgrade
-Inspect ignition coils and wiring, if not 'C' revision stock coils, I suggest replacing with OEM Mazda 'C' coils. Coils should be replaced every 60k miles or when seeing frequent misfires with healthy plugs. (Consider BHR alternative if you wish)
-Replace spark plugs and wires with Mazda OEM
-Replace any exhaust gaskets (midpipe) that were removed during engine replacement -- use Mazda OEM

Also consider...
A SOHN oil injection kit -- not required but it will allow you to control what oil is injected via the OMP system, and let you run synthetic in the crankcase.
Pre-mix 1oz of semi-synthetic (FD rated) 2-stroke oil per gallon of fuel in the tank -- 0.5oz if factory OMP or SOHN OMP kit is used.

40th8Jake

It’s a pretty car man. I get compliments all the time. If you don’t mind a project, do it! Overall the 40th is just a special color with a badge and urethane foam filled crossmember, the interior is a nice touch. If I wasn’t renting I would do my own work, but no way my landlord will let me tear an engine apart in their garage.

Good luck man

ps. Only 1000 or so made in that color. So sorta rare.

Breck

Well I drove it, and it was pretty disappointing. It's funny, I drove a 2004 RX8 about a year ago. It had had a reman installed in the last 20k (similar overall mileage @ 125k) and I just remember how fantastic the handling, shifter, and engine felt. This engine felt tired. The shifter felt loose from what I assume were worn out engine/trans mounts. The suspension was probably original and well worn. And the motor I would guess was original and near the end of it's life. It was already warned up when I got there and took a few turns to sputter to life. Then it rumbled a bit randomly when coming to idle.

Maybe the biggest problem from my end tho is that I came from a 2000 911 with 300hp and a fresh coilover suspension. My memory of the 2004 might be slightly tainted as it was pre 911 ownership or this example could just be that worn out.

Also, they are a no-haggle dealer. Kind of funny. Would make the deal impossible even if the car was nice.

Anyway, I spied another one on CL:
https://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/ct...973876026.html

Might go check it out just to see if it's a better example and can confirm if my memory is accurate or if I'm just spoiled now.

Breck

Dang man, appreciate the list! I've got a lot of learning to do on these. Love that it's got the enthusiast car support tho with people willing to help a noob like me with lists like this.

CaymanRotary

Yea, the RX8 scene is pretty good. Lots of people willing to help out. The initial purchase is so important. You literally want to go through everything before making an offer. Your new one is right at 100k miles which right away should set off red flags. Always ask for a compression test and make sure you go through everything.

The car you linked looks clean but as you know already, how it looks means nothing. Have patience and dont jump into one without doing your due diligence. Trust me, it will pay off in the long term.