Ethan I. Shiller

Have new Ignition Coils & Wires, plugs, battery, Catalytic Converter within the pass year, have 50K miles and yesterday as I was driving, the car just slowed to a crawl, the RPMs just hit about 4 to 5K but no gas/power was increasing the speed. Engine & battery light blinked but then everything blinked but didn't stay on.

Drift into my driveway, but had the car towed to repair mechanic. Not engine codes in diagnosis. Car would crank, but not start and then flooded. Pulling plugs to dry everything out. He could not check compression because he needed to get the car going.

Any ideas, what it could be or what if it does not crank?

Thanks..

UnknownJinX

Does it crank when cold?

Pretty sure you check the compression as you are cranking the car. Remember, use a rotary-specific one.

Loki

iTrader: (1)

He probably thinks he needs to warm up the car for a compression test. Technically true, but it sounds like you just need to know if it has any compression at all, he can test cold. Assuming he has a rotary tester.

I would test the coils. Possible you lost one, even with low mileage on it. What make/price were they?

NotAPreppie

Can you flesh this out a bit more?

Ethan I. Shiller

Repair Mechanic indicated that he cannot check compression until started.

What process to check compression when car is not started?

Thanks

NotAPreppie

Remove spark plug from front rotor.
Connect compression test tool to spark plug hole.
Crank engine.
Read measurement.
Repeat for rear rotor.

The correct procedure is to do it with the engine warm. That may be why the mechanic is saying he can't do it until it runs. However, if there was a catastrophic failure of a seal, it will show up even with a cold compression test.

I'm more interested in the symptoms as it died while driving. Can you describe the following in greater detail (and with less ambiguity)?

Ethan I. Shiller

After idling for about 15 minutes waiting to pickup my daughter, started to drive home then all of the sudden my speed drop from 50 mph to like 35 mph even though I was pressing the gas, the RPM were regular, but I then pressed the gas and RPM went up to 4-5K and MPH increase a little but no really movement.

Saw the lights blink and struggle to make it home, no matter how much I pressed the gas pedal, it slowed and coasted into driveway.

It cranked but didn't start, took to gas station mechanic, was now flooded, drying out sparks plug to see if he can get the car started and test compression.

Thanks

NotAPreppie

Automatic or manual?

You said that the coils/plugs/wires, battery and cat are new. How new? Where did you purchase them from? Who installed them?

Have you had your alternator and starter tested?

Is your car included in the fuel pump recall? Have you had the recall done?

Ethan I. Shiller

The RX-8 is Automatic.

There was no recall for the Fuel Pump - but the recall for the fuel ring was completed.
The Alternator is less than one year.

Flooding is everywhere - Mechanic disconnected the fuel Pump (under the Driver Seat???)
Waiting to still dry it out.

BigCajun

iTrader: (1)

Hopefully he just pulled the fuse.

Loki

iTrader: (1)

There is a chance the onyl way this mechanic will be able to perform a compression test on a running car is when you replace the engine and bring it back to him. Which is useless, so if he won't do it, find someone who will.

Also it is almost impossible thay he has the right equipment for a proper compression test on a rotary, so he will nevee be able to follow the correct procedure, so may as well not worry about testing warm and do his best with a cold test.

Also also, unless he has worked on a rotary before, I would it get it into the hands of someone who has and won't be learning on your dime

Ethan I. Shiller

The repair Mechanic has worked with Mazda Rotary before.
This has stumped him.

No charges for any labor or time.
I am getting it towed to Mazda Dealership. Will continue the saga tomorrow.

delhi

I had something similar many years ago and it turned out to be one coil failure with the rear rotor. But I was able to get home and drive it to the dealership next day. No flooding though. Dealership performed compression and was within specs. Power was down despite normal rpm. Dash lit up like Christmas tree.

Ethan I. Shiller

Did they simply replace all of the Ignition coils & wires? or were they able to identify which one?

How do you know which coil failure is tied to rear rotor?

Kindly,
Ethan

NotAPreppie

You can test each coil using one of these:

Just make certain it is calibrated for HEI systems.

RotoScooter

I had the Front rotor Leading coil fail the other morning on start up. I always thought coils went bad slowly, did not really notice much happening. Car ran great the night before. On start up it sounded horrible, and rough, did not want to idle at all, could not rev. Replaced coil #1 (closest to radiator, because of large discoloration on bottom of coil. all symptoms cleared. Coil order from radiator (front) Rotor 1 Leading, Rotor 1 Trailing, Rotor 2 Leading, Rotor 2 Trailing. Apparently the #1 coil is more prone to failure. Runs hotter I guess. BTW, it tests fine using the Service Manual Coil Test procedure. So much for that.

Ethan I. Shiller

Well, I hope that the Mazda dealership doesn't just say let's replace all the ignition coils & wiring $900. They tried that before when it failed the emissions test.

My Repair Mechanic had already replaced the wiring & two ignition coil but they didn't care.

What do I do if they just want to try stuff, and it doesn't work, but they start increasing my bill?

delhi

No. They identified the failed coil. I told them to just replace that coil and all plugs to minimize cost. Them I replaced remaining coils myself after I brought my car back. Car has been running great and I've since replaced plugs, coils and wires.
Tested the last batch of coils and they were within Mazda's spec. Actually the plugs are in good shape with no fouling or lean conditions. Keeping them as backup.