NoCatCon.csv

Hello everyone.
Been a lurker for the last couple of months - and just created an account to ask you guys for advice on an RX8 listing and my experience with it; if you're willing to give me some.

I had a nice conversation with her owner via chat and another long one when I went over to look the car over. It was beautiful. You can say I was sold the second I looked at her up close.
"If you're sold, why don't you just buy the car and stop creating a new and pointless thread - just read the newcomer thread instead."
Yes, I know. I'm actually asking you because I'm here to post the results of my findings with the RX8 and to ask you whether or not I should go ahead and buy the car, or keep looking elsewhere. I'll admit it is VERY scary looking at what could go wrong, but I've done my research and would like your opinions on it.
So here we go:

- The car has a total of 81k miles on it, and has had its engine rebuilt before (low compression), replacing the previous one with a re-manufactured Mazda Renesis engine which was covered by the warranty. The new engine has about 18 to 19k miles on it.
- No compression figures yet, but have asked to owner to do one before I can move forward; will post findings here... if post doesn't disappear.
- Clutch disk is a stage 1 - recently installed about 1k miles ago.
- No catalytic converter (emissions < fun, I wanted to ask if it was possible to reinstall it) - its been replaced with an RB catless resonated midpipe, installed in February 2019.
- Plugs were changed in April 2019, coils were upgraded to D585 coils. Wires were also replaced at the same time.
- CEL in on, likely due to the lack of a catalytic converter and secondary air pump.
- Has a MazdaSpeed cold air intake.
- Flywheel has been replaced with a lighter one - I believe it was a RacingBeat lightweight.
- It smells but I don't care (Cat delete after effect)
- I forgot to mention that the throw out bearing for the clutch was also replaced with a new one.
- Battery is new (nice)
- Did a FL-22 coolant and coolant system flush in Feb.
- Tyre pressure sensors were on, was told they needed replacement.
- RX8 was running rich when we drove it.
- CO premixes at every fill up and changes oil every 3.5k miles.
- No leaks observed

As for the OBD2 codes, I've asked the CO to give me whatever codes he has at the moment, so I'm waiting for that.

So what do you guys think? My heart is pretty much set on it. Is there something I'm missing (other than the compression tests) and is there something I need to look out for?

Much thanks.

Loki

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like they knew their way around the car, but compression is a funny thing. Did it start well once warmed up?
Why is it running rich? How did you determine this was the case?

NoCatCon.csv

Owner -was- is a mechanical engineer and a complete rotary nut. Has an RX-7 he wants to work on so is selling this car for funds.
The car did start well - idled at +/- 1000 rpm. Needle didn't seem to move much while we were waiting for it to warm up.

Couple of things we went over when I asked about the smell:
- No catalytic converter
- High octane fuel
- 10W30 oil in use
- No secondary air pump but has cold air intake instead (cheeky bugger actually showed the part it to me)

He told me it was running rich because he hadn't started it up in a while and possibly also because of the mods he made to it. He did state that it had always been like this and was confident that it wouldn't give me any problems if I followed the handbook of living with a rotary; I kind of admired that.
I'm hoping there aren't any issues other than the CE light but I won't know until I get the OBD2 codes - I should get a screen of them soon.

Loki

iTrader: (1)

There is cold start enrichment, and obviously the lack of cat will smell rich, but otherwise its a computerized car, it should not run rich. So again, how did you determine it was rich?

Regarding starting performance, did you try restarting it after it was warmed and was that also as quick as the cold start?

Air pump and air intake are completely unrelated components. In case you out a cat back on, you're going to want that secondary air pump back. Is he including it?

NoCatCon.csv

In short, owner told me.
Didn't start and restart - no. He'll be including the cat and air pump, yes.

NoCatCon.csv

Quick update with the OBD2 codes:
P0410: Secondary Air Injection System
P0411: Secondary Air Injection System: Incorrect flow detected
MIL indicator: On

USAF_AV8R

iTrader: (1)

I don't get those codes with my AEM CAI and it's exactly the same as a Mazdaspeed CAI, literally just different sticker but same everything else. I think I get P0420.

CaymanRotary

P0420 is the typical code if running catless. P0410 is an air pump code. Not necessary to have it installed if running with no cat and won't cause any issues. The owner likely deleted it. Even though its a Mazda remanufactured engine, its extremely important to get the compression test done before purchasing. If it puts out good numbers that car is a solid buy if everything else checks out.

NoCatCon.csv

He did. He did a cat delete and air pump delete. Still waiting on the compression test: I'd really like to get my hands on that beauty.

jcbrx8

It "sounds" like a well cared for car. But that w/b the seller's job to create that impression, right? Its great that you "love" the car. That's cool & important. However, "looks" and luck are poor sustainers of a long-term automotive relationship, especially with an 8; which requires not difficult, but meticulous attention.

Were it me... unless I knew & trusted the seller... I'd want to independently validate the following items MYSELF.

1. Get the engine compression tested (CRITICAL: this most singularly indicates the current health of the engine)
2. Check warm starting performance: Drive it till warm ...> ~10 min. Turn it off, and immediately try restarting it. Does it start reasonably easily? (Also, an indication / validation of compression)
3. Get the CEL codes read, and understand likely causes of each.

You're about to drop a chunk of your hard earned change. You have a good deal of useful information..., but all provided by the "seller of the car". I'd recommend confirming the above three items yourself

All the best!

delhi

Sounds like a well maintained RX8. If comp checks good, I'd be prepared with an offer. If you base the rich condition due to the smell, then it is not correct.That's due to being catless. Best verify the AFR or the fuel trim logs to ensure rich/lean conditions.
Also don't forget to check the rear wheel wells. Mazdas are notorious for rust in those areas.

NoCatCon.csv

I understand, thank you. Will post once I have more information.

NoCatCon.csv

All right guys, here we go: got some more information.
Compression test: (used the DIY method, except that we went to a mechanic who did it)
Front rotor: 240 RPM
In psi - 85 85 85

Rear: 240 RPM
81 81 81

Compared with the chart - worrisome.

Did the drive test when warm and tried restarting it: started up immediately. Now I have been bamboozled.

CEL: same old codes, still not sure why P0411 is being thrown though. Any advice from you guys?

CaymanRotary

Those numbers are really bad unless you live on a mountain. Do you live in a high elevation area? Pass, but keep looking around. Good thing you didnt buy it. The numbers show it's good enough to be reliable... for now. But this car wont last a year and power will be down.

NoCatCon.csv

Midwest, flat as a loli.

Don't understand how those numbers are possible - and still let the car start with ease.
Though, normalising them return values of 90 - 91.

CaymanRotary

I find anything over 6.0 bar is reliable with a good ignition system. He probably has a really good setup on his and it does a great job of masking low compression.