ADVICE on this RX-8
#1
ADVICE on this RX-8
Hello! Skip to the bolded question if you don't want any background.
First a little background about me and what I'm looking for.
I've been working on my own cars for 17 years, I've done a lot of research on the RX-8 and I've decided it fits my "needs".
I'm looking to spend about $5-8k total. I don't mind buying a car that needs cosmetic fixes if the engine is healthy.
Here are the kinds of scenarios I'm looking for:
Manual, ideally sport model, not Yellow or red (except the black cherry color), ideally not a 2004.
1) car has a bad engine, but the body is straight (no major dents, or scratches) for $1-3 k. I spend another ~$3k on a reman engine and drop it in myself.
2) car has a recent rebuild, reman, or just low miles with good compression, but needs some paint correction or a respray. Buy car for $3-6k I spend $1-3k on paint.
3) take out a small loan and get something that doesn't need anything.. Forum member Steve Dallas has a beautiful example:
https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8s-sale-w...k-mica-269686/
I'm located in California Bay Area, and I'm not afraid to travel or use a transportation service.
Finally the specific question:
https://sandiego.craigslist.org/esd/...917559504.html
Does this car seem to have a respray or body work? The owner says it doesn't to his knowledge but there are some chips, cracks, and "spots" on the car that seem suspicious. He says he tried to use touch up paint on the chips. The cosmetics overall are terrible.
chip above headlight
chip between suicide doors
"spots" on fender
crack on rear bumper near license plate
compression test at mazda near el cajon
It looks like a tack ricer car, but I don't mind removing all that stuff and getting back to stock.The mods are only cosmetic, which is a plus, and the engine seems great (compression numbers 8.3 - 8.7). I know he's asking too much, but I think he'll budge on the price after a while.
What do you all think? Any advice is Greatly appreciated. Thank you!
First a little background about me and what I'm looking for.
I've been working on my own cars for 17 years, I've done a lot of research on the RX-8 and I've decided it fits my "needs".
I'm looking to spend about $5-8k total. I don't mind buying a car that needs cosmetic fixes if the engine is healthy.
Here are the kinds of scenarios I'm looking for:
Manual, ideally sport model, not Yellow or red (except the black cherry color), ideally not a 2004.
1) car has a bad engine, but the body is straight (no major dents, or scratches) for $1-3 k. I spend another ~$3k on a reman engine and drop it in myself.
2) car has a recent rebuild, reman, or just low miles with good compression, but needs some paint correction or a respray. Buy car for $3-6k I spend $1-3k on paint.
3) take out a small loan and get something that doesn't need anything.. Forum member Steve Dallas has a beautiful example:
https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8s-sale-w...k-mica-269686/
I'm located in California Bay Area, and I'm not afraid to travel or use a transportation service.
Finally the specific question:
https://sandiego.craigslist.org/esd/...917559504.html
Does this car seem to have a respray or body work? The owner says it doesn't to his knowledge but there are some chips, cracks, and "spots" on the car that seem suspicious. He says he tried to use touch up paint on the chips. The cosmetics overall are terrible.
chip above headlight
chip between suicide doors
"spots" on fender
crack on rear bumper near license plate
compression test at mazda near el cajon
It looks like a tack ricer car, but I don't mind removing all that stuff and getting back to stock.The mods are only cosmetic, which is a plus, and the engine seems great (compression numbers 8.3 - 8.7). I know he's asking too much, but I think he'll budge on the price after a while.
What do you all think? Any advice is Greatly appreciated. Thank you!
#2
Out of curiosity, how old is that compression test? Also, 2006 isn't much better than a 2004 so I wouldn't pay a premium for that. Any other problems with it other than the paint and that super ugly front body kit?
Edit: just noticed he said original color was silver so he definitely had it resprayed.
Edit: just noticed he said original color was silver so he definitely had it resprayed.
Last edited by CaymanRotary; 06-27-2019 at 03:14 PM.
#3
Honestly, bodywork done RIGHT can get VERY expensive. My advice? Get something that the motor is FUBAR'd but the body is excellent and drop a reman into it (upgrade to quality full aluminum radiator, aluminum coolant overflow tank, and a few other misc. upgrades to protect the new investment/motor from premature failure should a life-support component fail due to age and wear.
#4
I had the same question, but you can actually see the date of the compression test on the doc. It's 6-19-2019. Other than paint, it needs new tires. My main concern is that it's been resprayed / has had body work. I suspect it's been in an accident and damaged on the right side, front, and rear, and that's why the paint is chipping and cracking in those areas. I'm no paint expert, though. I just don't want to deal with bad body work and any problems that may come up as a result of a collision.
Last edited by garcia hotspur; 06-27-2019 at 03:18 PM.
#5
Honestly, bodywork done RIGHT can get VERY expensive. My advice? Get something that the motor is FUBAR'd but the body is excellent and drop a reman into it (upgrade to quality full aluminum radiator, aluminum coolant overflow tank, and a few other misc. upgrades to protect the new investment/motor from premature failure should a life-support component fail due to age and wear.
#6
I had the same question, but you can actually see the date of the compression test on the doc. It's 6-19-2019. Other than paint, it needs new tires. My main concern is that it's been resprayed / has had body work. I suspect it's been in a damaged on the right side, front, and rear, and that's why the paint is chipping and cracking in those areas. I'm no paint expert, though. I just don't want to deal with bad body work and any problems that may come up as a result of a collision.
If all checks out offer him $5000. Thats what I would pay for it.
Last edited by CaymanRotary; 06-27-2019 at 03:23 PM.
#7
You can for the most part see paint and body work/damage/repairs.
You CAN'T see inside the motor (unless you take it out and open it up)
Play it smart, play it safe. Get a clean chassis, never repaired/resprayed and put a new (remanufactured) heart in it.
CaymanRotary: $5,000 I would expect a clean body and good engine, this is not a $5,000 car.
You CAN'T see inside the motor (unless you take it out and open it up)
Play it smart, play it safe. Get a clean chassis, never repaired/resprayed and put a new (remanufactured) heart in it.
CaymanRotary: $5,000 I would expect a clean body and good engine, this is not a $5,000 car.
#8
#9
I frequent craigslist/offerup/letgo amongst other platforms, and I've messed with Rx8's long enough to know there isn't anything special about this car.
Motor is good (not perfect but good), body needs love. I wouldn't pay more than $4,500 at most for that car, probably closer to $4,000.
Ive seen clean condition 2009 Rx8's recently with less than 100k on the chassis with good compression getting posted with a starting asking price of $6,200. Probably negotiate down to the mid $5,xxx range.
Honestly Steve's car is a great deal if you're willing to work on getting it over here. Alternatively find something within 300 miles of where you live and go pick it up.
#10
Well, around where I am cars are more expensive. Still think that guy can get $5k for it with little effort. I like the expensive upgrades ($500 BHR coils!) but I doubt this seller would take $4500 since he has it listed for $7k. Sometimes worth it if you like that particular vehicle. RX8s in good condition becoming very rare to find used. I'd just buy a used front bumper and take that thing to Maaco for the $500 paint special.
#13
If you cannot pay for a car report, you can go to VinCheck.info for a free vehicle history report. However, I think it only works for North American-made vehicles and to units with identification number containing 17 characters.
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