DBraveman

Hey there,

I looked in here as much as possible to avoid having repeat questions but couldn't find it so here I am. I hope someone can answer my concern.

Stumbled into a 2007 rx8 with 85k in very nice shape. After reading everyone's advice to do a compression test before anything else, my question is this:
Take to a Dealer and bite a $220 bullet or take it to a self proclaimed rx8 expert who charges $75 for the test. Claims to know how to do rebuilds and while speaking with him sounds like he does have the experience. My fear with him is that he might want to claim that the engine is dying when in fact it isn't just so he can get the business.

He claims ALL rx8 were rushed out of the factory and the motors were compromised and built with cheap parts. Any truth to this?

After talking to him my perspective changed a bit and not even sure if I still should even get involved. I've had some bad luck with projects recently and not really looking for another headache.
But, I still want to hear everyone here out before deciding:
Dealer or Joe "rx8 expert" Shmoe???

Thanks in advance

Steve Dallas

If you were to tell us who this expert is, we could tell you our opinion of him...

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

Anyone that professes anything that is on one extreme or the other in most issues should be discounted

Rotary compression testing takes specialized equipment.....so the shade-tree mechanic with a standard compression gauge won't give you usable information

DBraveman

Sorry but I guess I didn't explain that this technician actually rebuilds these rotary engines and has the actual equipment to test the compression. He's based out of Kissimmee, FL with 20 years experience dealing with these particular engines.

So I ask once again, Dealer or experienced rx-8 technician(forget I called him Joe)
Thanks

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

If you trust "Joe"...and he gives you the info in the correct format to make sense...........That would be my choice If you can watch the test that would be even better

DBraveman

My plan is to definitely be there during this.
Thanks

I guess I'm still curious about his statement about Mazda rushing production of these cars and cutting corners. True or False? My thought was that this might hold true with early years but not later?

BigCajun

iTrader: (1)

I'm no expert, I've been involved with the forum for almost 3 years, and I've not heard that.
I heard that the oil injection system was insufficient and became apparent after the failures began, and was subsequently addressed.
I had not heard it was because they were rushed into production.
Many vehicles had flaws that were discovered post production.
I have a 2004 GT, 2nd owner, bought with 18k miles over 3 years ago, now almost 50k, and I've had no major issues, other than the cat was probably already bad when I bought it.

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

Other much more likely conspiracy theories exist....

Mazda did a few things that in hindsight haven't lasted like they would have liked

They did provide an extended warranty that addressed issues for 8 years. I'm not sure that if it was " planned" that they would have done that

wannawankel

A Porsche 911, whose owner did not take the car in for numerous valve adjustments, frequent oil changes, and the like would also suffer costly issues. No true sports car is immune to maintenance-free and low cost ownership.

Mazda perhaps didn't inform its owners of the need to change the oil frequently, rev the @#$@#$ out of the engine daily, and not to use non-rotary repair places to "fix" items. Owners also likely assume Japanese = I can let oil go for 12K miles, fill gas up, and have the first 100K miles be problem free.

DBraveman

What if in addition to doing the comp test , I included an extended warranty in the loan, which is offered by the lender and was already quoted at $2600 for 4 yrs / 48k miles ? Would that make sense?
Keep in mind that this warrantee has no deductible and covers all engine, trans, Electrical.

Let me also tell you that I do believe I'm getting decent deal at $5900.00 so if you add the $2600, it means $8,500 for a decent car and peace of mind for 3 or 4 yrs.
I'm in desperation mode right now looking for reliable transportation and look good at the same time.
What do you guys think? Does it do it for ya?

BigCajun

iTrader: (1)

Just be sure you read the warranty thoroughly and be sure there are no hidden qualifiers that could come back to void it.
Other than that, sounds good to me, and if you think it's worth it, go for it.
Good luck.

DBraveman

This is a portion of their disclosed Coverage Agreement where it details what is covered:

ENGINE Engine parts consisting of: Crankshaft and bearings, oil pump, oil pump pickup/screen and tube, pistons, piston rings, wrist pins, connecting rods and rod bearings, timing gears and chain or belt, timing tensioners/guides, balance shafts, camshaft and camshaft bearings, push rods, rocker arms, rocker arm shaft and hydraulic lifters, intake and exhaust valves, valve springs, cylinder head gaskets. Engine blocks are also covered if mechanical failure was caused by the above-listed parts.

AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION Transmission parts consisting of: Gears, input and output shafts, bearings, front pump, planetary assemblies, transmission case, overdrive carrier, reaction carrier, center support, parking lock actuator, stator and stator shaft, separator plate, pressure regulator valve, dipstick and filler tube, sprags, governor assembly, valve body and torque converter. Chain, drum assembly, solenoids, bushings, accumulator, clutches, bands, servos, parking pawl, speedometer gear, transmission cooler, pistons.

STANDARD TRANSMISSION Transmission parts consisting of: Gears, input and output shafts, bearings, overdrive housing and transmission case if malfunction was caused by the listed parts. Clutch plate, pressure plate, flywheel, release and pilot bearings are NOT included.

DRIVE AXLE ASSEMBLY (FRONT OR REAR WHEEL DRIVE) Consisting of: Drive shaft, ring and pinion gears, pinion bearings, side carrier bearings, carrier assembly, thrust washers, axle and axle bearings and limited slip clutch pack assembly. Universal and CV joints, except if boot was damaged or missing. Drive axle housing is also covered if damage is caused by failure of listed lubricated parts.

DRIVE AXLE ASSEMBLY (4-WHEEL AND ALL-WHEEL DRIVE) Transfer case including gears, main shaft, drive chain, thrust washer and shims, bearings. Front drive shaft, differential, axles, u-joints and CV joints, except if boot was damaged or missing. With Applicable Surcharge.

AIR CONDITIONING Compressor, clutch and coil assembly, evaporator, accumulator and condenser, if factory installed, evacuation/recharge.

STEERING Power steering pump, electric steering motor, steering gear housing and its internal parts and rack and pinion assembly.

BRAKES Master cylinder, ABS master cylinder, vacuum booster, wheel cylinders, disc brake calipers, hydraulic lines and fittings. Coverage does NOT include pads, shoes, drums or rotors.

COOLING Radiator, fan clutch, water pump and cooling fan motor.

FUEL DELIVERY Fuel pump, fuel sending unit, fuel tank, fuel injectors and metal fuel lines. ELECTRICAL Battery, engine operation computer, voltage regulator, alternator, wiper motors, wiper module, window motors, window regulators, seat motors, ignition module, ignition coil, distributor, starter, starter solenoid and door lock actuators; manually operated switches for above listed parts.

SEALS AND GASKETS

24-HOUR ROADSIDE ASSISTANCE Towing, flat tire changing, fuel and fluid delivery, lock-out service and "jump" starting.

RENTAL CAR In the event of mechanical breakdown of a covered component, the Agreement Holder will be reimbursed up to $40 per day for a rental vehicle for each four hours of covered repair time as determined by a national flat rate guide. Total not to exceed $200. Rental receipts required for reimbursement.

BigCajun

iTrader: (1)

I'm thinking the engine part of the warranty is useless as a rotary engine contains almost none of those parts.

BigCajun

iTrader: (1)

Are you familiar with the rotary engine?
They lose compression usually because of seals failing, sometimes damaging the housings.
It technically doesn't have a 'block', it has housings, or 'irons'.
I think you would need language specific to the rotary to ensure it was valid.
I can see someone reading that and concluding that none of the things specified in the warranty caused an engine failure.
I am concerned since the engine is probably the biggest failure risk with an 8.

BigCajun

iTrader: (1)

[QUOTE=DBraveman;4728890]This is a portion of their disclosed Coverage Agreement where it details what is covered:

ENGINE Engine parts consisting of: Crankshaft and bearings, oil pump, oil pump pickup/screen and tube,

We have an Eccentric shaft that may be considered a crankshaft, but that's not what it's called.
We have bearings, and an Oil Metering Pump, again, a technicality.

pistons, piston rings, wrist pins, connecting rods and rod bearings, timing gears and chain or belt, timing tensioners/guides, balance shafts, camshaft and camshaft bearings, push rods, rocker arms, rocker arm shaft and hydraulic lifters, intake and exhaust valves, valve springs, cylinder head gaskets. Engine blocks are also covered if mechanical failure was caused by the above-listed parts.

None of the above listed parts are in a rotary engine, so they couldn't cause an engine failure.

DBraveman

I do understand the difference of both motors. I was quoted this warranty based on the rx8, however.

I will have to contact this company directly and ask about the details and the differences and whether we could use an addendum to that contract to specify rotary engine parts and see what's their answer.

BigCajun

iTrader: (1)

You must get something in writing.
I doubt anyone would want to pay a claim if there was any way they could avoid it.
If you can get something specific for the rotary, that would be a go.

DBraveman

I guess I'll hijack my own thread and bring up another question:

Has anyone else bought an extended warranty outside of Mazda? Please tell me your story.

TheParadoxotaur

I actually did when I got mine, however a few weeks afterwards I was contacted by the company (I forgot the name) and told they didn't warrant rotary engines (gave a BS excuse about lack of certified mechanics for them). I got a refund from the dealer I purchased from. I've researched a couple options since but haven't pulled the trigger on any just yet. There are so many options out there that it can get overwhelming. Not to mention trying to figure out which companies/warranties are worth it.

DBraveman

Well, today after calling route66 extended warranty, I actually found out that the warranty will NOT cover engine parts not mentioned on their list, which means nothing from the rx8....so it's a no go for me.

This might as well be a message from up above not to bother with this....I will not become a another statistic. The pros and cons that I've put together don't add up to this car's favor.
Unless of course, I've been given an offer I can't refuse......highly unlikely, though.

I'm glad to have stumbled into this forum and get my questions answered. This is a great place for all rx8 owners.
Thanks to all.

BigCajun

iTrader: (1)

If you get a passing compression test, that's the most important thing, and the car would likely have outlived the warranty anyway.
But if you're not comfortable with it, then by no means should you get it.
Too bad, I love mine.

DBraveman

My impression from what I take from here and from the so called "rx8 expert" is that the bottom line is that at some point engine will lose its compression and eventually fail...maybe not today, not 5, 10, or 30 k miles....but it will at some point but to extend this, it will require more than usual maintenance...

You guys love your cars, trust me, I get that, I can see myself doing the same...... but again at this point, the cons outweigh the pros too much for me to consider it.

Khurram

For the price and the mileage the car seems to be a good deal.
I have had 2 rx8s and both have been super reliable.

My suggestion; since you were willing to shell out 8K+ with the warranty, why not go for 2nd Gen 2010 or 2011 model, you can find one for 10K easily. And it should have a balance of 2 years of factory warranty. All the best :-)

DBraveman

That's good thinking but from what I can see, it's harder to find a good deal on a 2nd Gen in that price range...

BigCajun

iTrader: (1)

Trust your instinct
If you are not 100% prepared to deal with the necessary maintenance demands of the RX8, both time and moneywise, then you should pass.
They're not for everyone, and there is a reason lots of us use the term 'enthusiast'.
More people should give as much thought to buying one as you have, there'd be far fewer frustrated owners.