moldyviolinist

iTrader: (1)

Title says it all. First time attempting to run some seafoam, but the engine really didn't suck much in. I think I got about a 1/4 of a bottle in there, but after waiting an hour and a half, I started car, but there was zero white smoke... seems like it had no effect.

I have seen conflicting information regarding disconnecting the two sensors on the left... I disconnected them both, should I only have disconnected one?

Any other suggestions? I'd like to try again, preferably getting more seafoam in the engine.

fallafalla

Hey, not to rain on your parade but if you read through this thread leaving the seafoam to sit does pretty much nothing, better off just sucking it in while running and even then water does just as good of a job for a lot less money certainly cleaned up my FD engine pretty well for its teardown.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Read this: https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tec...r-pics-241867/

Pulling in the seafoam with cranking and then letting it sit did exactly nothing to the carbon in the rotor, proved with before and after borescope pics.

Sucking it in with the engine running is far far far more effective, but if you are going to do that, just use distilled water, since it is just as effective and 89 cents a gallon instead of $6 for 16oz (or whatever)

moldyviolinist

iTrader: (1)

Thanks guys, I did read that thread actually, but there were some concerns about large chunks of carbon coming off when using water and potentially clogging something up. Also, just because the rotor faces don't show much carbon removal, doesn't mean the more important areas don't have some carbon removed.

I'll attempt to decarb with the engine running. What if I mixed 3/4 of a can of seafoam with the gallon of distilled water, and ran that? Should be effective right?

How should I do it as well? Get the vaccuum line set up, start the engine, and then dunk the end of the line in the gallon around 3-4k rpm and keep it there?

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

If it's not removing carbon from the faces, despite being soaked in seafoam, what makes it remove carbon from the seals also being soaked in seafoam?

You can mix them if you want, though they will tend to still separate and you could easily only actually be doing one or another at any given point in time. Water was exactly as effective as seafoam, so mixing two things that do the same thing should still produce the same thing.

No, I don't have any concerns about chunks coming off and more than chunks coming off from standard seafoam. Basically, it doesn't matter what method is being used to remove the carbon, there is always a bit of a risk that it may break off a chunk of carbon that can cause damage elsewhere if it isn't ejected from the engine quickly. That never changes unless you remove the rotors from the engine and hot tank them.

The thread also has several different posts showing how to set it up, from more than one person.

Run a vacuum line to each of the nipples, connect them with a T (yes, do both rotors at the same time), then run a line from that into the passenger seat area of the car, add another T to that end. On that 2nd T, add one long line to reach the bottom of whatever fluid container you have, and one short line about 1-2 inches long and leave it open to air. Start the car, get it up to temp (use your fingers to close off the vacuum lines to block the vacuum leak created by the setup), then bring the RPMs up to ~2,000-2,500 (it will stall at idle with straight water), and drop the long end of the T into the water container. Solid water will be sucked up that line, and will mix with the air from the short line and it will look more like 'whitewater' through the long line back to the engine bay, where it will split at the T and go into both service ports at the same time. You will need to use the gas pedal to keep the engine from stalling, but too high and it will keep running into the safety cutout that will disable the gas pedal (from not moving with higher revs for 30 seconds or more)

Change your oil afterwards.