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The battery is a Costco brand with 650 CCA.. Voltage tested decently around 12.3, which is odd considering the veryyyyy slow starter speed. After doing some research on the forum I think I found the 2 kW starter at a local Oreillys auto. I'll be doing the swap tomorrow and take a before and after video. Hopefully that will get it kicked over.
It previously started and idled decently before all the cleaning. I had high hopes it would fire right up.
The battery is a Costco brand with 650 CCA.. Voltage tested decently around 12.3, which is odd considering the veryyyyy slow starter speed. After doing some research on the forum I think I found the 2 kW starter at a local Oreillys auto. I'll be doing the swap tomorrow and take a before and after video. Hopefully that will get it kicked over.
It previously started and idled decently before all the cleaning. I had high hopes it would fire right up.
The starter has the tendency to beat the crap out of the battery. If it is an 04, it may not have had the starter updated to the Series II or Series I "new" replacement model. the 04/05 had many reasons for the engine recall, but that was a big one.
The voltage target on Mazdas is much higher than other oems. They are trying to shove between 13.8 and 14.5-14.8 into the battery, which sounds scary, but is actually good for preventing issues inside the battery with acid and build up.
All that being said, the battery should be sitting at around 12.5/6/7/8 on a normal day fully charged. Somewhere around 13.2/.3 after the car has been driven and the alternator has time to regenerate the massive hole the starter can put into it.
If your replacing the starter, have a peek at the starter positive wire and maybe upgrade/update it. I believe it is 2AWG, but I could be wrong. Maybe even consider putting the battery in the trunk with a relocation mod. If your thinking of doing work to the engine or swapping, it is a good time to lay the groundwork for that now. It sounds like the car is apart already and you have a good look at the throat.
No wonder it wasn't starting. I'm going to try to deflood it with the plugs out but it's concerning there is that much junk on them. What's everyone's favorite method to clean plugs and their Renesis zoom zoom?
I also was feeling nostalgic and found pics of my old FC. I sold it to some kid who blew the engine a few days later and tried calling to get his money back.
I saw it for sale in Oregon on a random forum a few years ago for like $1800 with no motor. I tried to contact the seller but got no reply. It was such a fun car. I remember one time my windshield wipers stopped working when I was on the freeway and it was pouring rain. Ah, memories.
No wonder it wasn't starting. I'm going to try to deflood it with the plugs out but it's concerning there is that much junk on them. What's everyone's favorite method to clean plugs and their Renesis zoom zoom?
Gentle cleaning with a nylon bristle brush.
I usually buy new plugs, on my 3rd set in about 35k miles.
Gentle cleaning with a nylon bristle brush.
I usually buy new plugs, on my 3rd set in about 35k miles.
You seem pretty savvy, so I would recommend a mod here. Not sure which is trailing or leading, but I have seen a LOT of rotaries, not just the RX8, lock up rotor number 1 from Carbon build up. Those things your cleaning seem more dirty than they should be to me.
I would recommend looking at the GM LS2 coils, changing the wires, and changing the plugs. I highly recommend moving the coils away from the stock spot since it is an utter heat box there, and the corona discharge effect happens constantly wearing the coils down fast. If you put them near the stock airbox, or the battery with an additional ground you wont be sorry. I noticed going from an occasional misfire to zero. (Yes logging for almost 8 months now with zero recorded). The ignition system is beefer on the RX8 than previous 13B engines because of them trying to stretch all that power from an NA.
You seem pretty savvy, so I would recommend a mod here. Not sure which is trailing or leading, but I have seen a LOT of rotaries, not just the RX8, lock up rotor number 1 from Carbon build up. Those things your cleaning seem more dirty than they should be to me.
I would recommend looking at the GM LS2 coils, changing the wires, and changing the plugs. I highly recommend moving the coils away from the stock spot since it is an utter heat box there, and the corona discharge effect happens constantly wearing the coils down fast. If you put them near the stock airbox, or the battery with an additional ground you wont be sorry. I noticed going from an occasional misfire to zero. (Yes logging for almost 8 months now with zero recorded). The ignition system is beefer on the RX8 than previous 13B engines because of them trying to stretch all that power from an NA.
bc has sake bomb coils and had the bhr before that. the trailing plug is on the right btw
badinfluence and BigCajun - Thanks for the advice! It looks like that will be for the next motor because...
I got the engine deflooded and while the plugs were out I did a quick little compression test. I got the engine to start and idle, but it would start getting bumpy and died when I turned on the A/C. After that, I couldn't get it started again until it cooled off just like when I bought it.
I used a cheapy compression tester off amazon and recorded the numbers on my phone while my wife cranked it over. Best I can tell, the rear rotor has a bad seal with roughly 58 PSI, and the other two faces around 75 PSI. The front rotor has generally low compression and one side looked like it had 55 PSI and the other two right around 62 PSI.
I was hoping it was a surrounding issue aside from the motor internals but after looking at the plugs I had a a pretty good idea. So, looks like it's tear down and rebuild time!
04-16-2016, 06:46 AM
