2stroke

Hey guys I was shopping the other day and picked up some of these gold plated Multi-Feed Battery Terminal Connectors. Anyways. I managed to easily cut the negative cables off the OEM Connector and attach them to the new ones. They use a sort of internal screw down method with hex bolts. You just feed the bare copper wire in and tighten it down. Anyways I only did the negative one because I saw that the positive battery terminal has this 60amp fuse. I know that's for the Power Steering but any ideas on how to fit my new connector to the positive terminal without ruining it that much. That fuse has to be there for a reason. do I just cut the wire before the fuse block and go with an in-line 60 amp fuse and then into the connector. Or are there more guts inside this that im missing. I'd hate to F*** my power steering ahah. Electrical is not my greatest thanks!

ken-x8

Why are you replacing the connectors? I don't see any corrosion in your picture of the positive terminal. That kind of aftermarket clamp-on terminal is going to be less reliable than an OEM style cable.

Ken

2stroke

I know it doesnt look like it but the clamp itself is bent and has elements of greenish corrosion. So i was going to replace it. Also having the multifeed holes will let me clean up that part of the bay and give me an easy route for my grounding upgrade i will be doing soon. The negative has already been swapped and so far i don't see any negative results. Ive purchased a 60amp in line fuse for the power steering, and im matching the guage wire with 6ga. Also ive acquired some 4ga for the cable that connects the alternator and harness. And i am using a simple bitt connector. Everything will be shrink wrapped. But i got these terminals for about 5 bucks from an audio store here and thought i would try them out they seem very well built and the gold isn't flaking off like the cheap ones.

2stroke

Ok everyone. I finally managed to complete this project and i will edit this as a little DIY later. Anyways i ended up running a 60 amp in line fuse to the power steering cable and have no issues with my power steering she actually feels nice and smooth (she always did) i ended up using 2 butt connectors for the wiring off the main harness. For anyone thats wondering its a 4ga and 8ga wire from the harness. The new gold plated connectors are holding up nicely and took a little beating and there isn't a scratch. I used (Stinger gold-plated multi-feed connectors). While i was in there i finally decided to remove that annoying little bracket assembly for the air pump and welded a little holder for the temp sensor. And there is a convenient hole down there for some relay. The clamps fit snugly and have no play. And in case you are wondering i took sone readings for ya! Ive got 13.3 volts when car is off. 13.1 during ignition on (engine not running), a slight dip to 12.6 during cranking but she fired up fast, im talking maybe 1 maybe 1.5 cranks and she was on but i do have BHR ignition. And during running of the engine with all accessories on i had 14.2-14.6 depending on accessories but a/c was on full and i do have an amp so stereo was on

Pictures later!

JBS3zoomzoom

where's those pics at!?? Looking at this spot for troubleshooting power steering and would love to see a decon/reconstruction of the positive terminal cable.

2stroke

Okay sorry for the delay I will try to be as clear as possible and give you the pictures I took. I didn't take pics of cutting wire and the lengths because anyone that has any skill can guess/estimate how much they are going to need.

So for Step 1: Pop your hood, Remove all the plastic covers and stuff, Ensure the engine is off and disconnect the battery terminals, also remove the battery and undo the plastic sides of the battery box part just to give you more room to work with but you don't have to. (you will need a 10mm socket for this =D)

Step 2: Grab something you like to use to cut wires and cut off all the wires connecting the negative terminal as close as you can. You will not need to add wire here to reach the terminal. Strip off some of the wire to expose about 1/2 inch or so of the copper wire. Braid it up and screw down your terminal connector however you want to those wires. ( See Pics from original post for negative battery terminal)

Step 3: Okay this looks tricky and sensitive but its really easy. Remove the Electrical Power Steering Cap over the fuse holder on the positive Battery Cable. You should see a bolt holding the other wires for alternator and stuff to the fuse holder. Remove that bolt (12mm? could be 10mm).

Step 4: Unplug the electrical power steering connector to the electrical power steering fuse holder. Just depress the tab with finger and remove.

Step 5: as close to the connector as you can snip the wire from the connector (warning no going back from this unless you buy another wire and connector or you solder really good.) Now strip it out a good amount, Attach it to your 60amp inline fuse, and add wire to reach where your positive battery terminal will be on the other side of the inline 60 amp fuse.

Step 6: on the other two positive battery cable you will need to buy 4 gauge butt connectors and a 6 gauge butt connector , attach butt connectors to those stock cables and again add as much wire to the other side as you need in order to reach the positive battery terminal. Tape everything nicely, use some cable ties to hold everything as a bundle.

Step 7: thread down your new aftermarket terminal connector to the wires and reinstall your battery box, battery, clamps, tie downs, and plastic covers. Then you are done.

Side note: the battery box cover didn't seem to want to fit very easily, so I cut the back of it off and it still looks nice.