Becoming Tr8tor
#27
Registered
iTrader: (1)
The Mazda pedal sensor has a different voltage range than the LS ECU expects. It's not far off, but more than likely won't work.
Green lines are the Mazda sensors range and the orange are the LS.
Mazda uses a fixed .5v offset between the two position sensors for sanity checks, and the LS ECU uses a rising offset that changes from .5v to at 0% to 2V at 100%
If you want to keep the Mazda pedal, here's an option I've looked at: Sensor Voltage Converter
It's a pretty flexible signal modifier that should be able to convert the Mazda sensor range to the LS sensor range.
The docs and description seem like it's more for the throttle position sensor, but looking at the software it is usable to modify the pedal sensor voltage as well.
My big hangup is that it's a black box sitting between a sensor and the ecu. If something goes wrong the best case scenario is the throttle won't work, the worst case scenario is uncommanded runaway throttle. The stock pedal and ecu work together to sanity check signals to prevent this kind of thing, but with a converter box in the middle it creates a potential for a dangerous failure.
If the converter is well designed it shouldn't be a problem.
Green lines are the Mazda sensors range and the orange are the LS.
Mazda uses a fixed .5v offset between the two position sensors for sanity checks, and the LS ECU uses a rising offset that changes from .5v to at 0% to 2V at 100%
If you want to keep the Mazda pedal, here's an option I've looked at: Sensor Voltage Converter
It's a pretty flexible signal modifier that should be able to convert the Mazda sensor range to the LS sensor range.
The docs and description seem like it's more for the throttle position sensor, but looking at the software it is usable to modify the pedal sensor voltage as well.
My big hangup is that it's a black box sitting between a sensor and the ecu. If something goes wrong the best case scenario is the throttle won't work, the worst case scenario is uncommanded runaway throttle. The stock pedal and ecu work together to sanity check signals to prevent this kind of thing, but with a converter box in the middle it creates a potential for a dangerous failure.
If the converter is well designed it shouldn't be a problem.
#28
I'd just look at getting a GM DBW pedal from the junkyard and making a bracket to make it fit. My local place says pedals are $7, even if they charged you extra because it's DBW, it would be nowhere near the cost of a $300 converter and when you pull it from the junkyard you can get the plug/pigtail/harness as well.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post