Star09

I searched, but didn't find anything that addressed this specifically.

So I have a brake that is dragging/grabbing, especially when in reverse. I plan on having the rotors turned and replacing the pads. Wondering, should that fix the issue, or have you found that the brake dragging issue usually takes something else?

I know this has to be affecting my gas mileage. At best, I am getting just under 16.9 mpg. Not that I'm complaining, if that's usual, fine, I like my car, but if it can be improved by fixing my dragging brake, all the better. :-)

My car has 76,000 miles on it.

Thanks!

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Yes, brakes dragging will negatively affect gas mileage

No, replacing pads and turning rotors likely won't solve it. It is probably a seizing caliper, which will need to be rebuilt or replaced.

In my opinion, you shouldn't bother "turning rotors" any more. It costs about as much as just buying basic new rotors from the auto parts store, and you don't run a risk of a bad turning job (which happens), and you aren't removing material from the rotors (which needs it's mass to properly soak heat)

Star09

Thanks, RIWWP!

Now I need to figure out which one is the culprit. DH has a similar issue on his Miata. I guess we will be doing some brake work soon. My coil may have to wait a couple months...

niteshade247

Drop in MPG could be a sign you need the coils first. Are you sure it's a brake? Bad coils will rob power. Check for excess brake dust on one or more wheels is one wheel getting hotter than the others? Check pads are one set more worn? If you don't see any of the for mentioned you might need to do the coils wires and plugs first.

Star09

niteshade247, you may be onto something. I believe I have both issues. We are planning on purchasing the BHR ignition this weekend. I noticed the car cranks for a bit before starting, idles kind of rough (feels like the motor mounts are worn), and it cut out a couple different times in the high RPM area. This has led me to believe it really needs the ignition system before brakes. But both will probably aid in better gas mileage.

First, BHR ignition, though!

I found one that was used for only one month for $250, but it all depends if we can work out a way to get together and make the trade.

RXeligion

Look at the front caliper on the driver's side. I've noticed that most times - this one is the culprit. It was on mine (seized 2k miles after I bought it) Remember to grease your pins and check your boots & bushings when you change your brake pads.

Star09

RXeligion, thanks for the direction, but it looks like my brakes will be waiting for a bit.

My sweet dh took my 8 to the dealership yesterday to be given the "once over"and have an oil change. The brakes are pretty equally 1/2 used all the way around and they could not verify anything sticking/dragging. Everything checked out ($120), even the cv boots are intact and everything else they checked. They didn't give any recommendations to fix or replace anything. It got an oil change ($45) and alignment ($79) while it was there, too.

I do have one issue, they told dh that we should rev the engine to 4K before turning it off. They obviously don't know what they are talking about! lol

Also...they said they couldn't do the compression test as the weather was so cold they said it would affect the results. They said that they had seen a bad engine check out as okay in cold weather so we should wait till warmer weather. But I really don't think my car has a compression problem. I think the BHR ignition will actually fix all my issues (which are few). It cranks a couple seconds before starting, but always starts and I don't have ANY issues with warm starts. It has cut out once or twice on high revs (beeping), but it is a very quick car (especially when I shift) and I have no problems breaking the tires loose. :-)

So, I'm going to get the ignition and see what that does for my MPG. I was reading that people usually get MPG in the teens in the city, and 3/4 of my daily commute is rush hour traffic with approx 1/4 being highway-ish driving. In this setting I am getting about 16 MPG. So I guess that doesn't sound so bad comparably. And I don't drive it very gently. :-)

Thanks for reading my update!!!

niteshade247

I see you said "cutting out at hight RPM (beeping)" well that's normal there is a fuel cut off around that time to keep you from killing the engine. Don't hit the fuel cut off to much as it's not healthy for the engine.

Mysterion

If you and/or your better half are moderately handy with tools, a good weekend project that might resolve the brake issue would be to pull the wheels, one end at a time, and check and lube all the sliders for the calipers. Basic tools should suffice and what is involved is 1) remove wheel 2) remove the guide pins for the caliper 3) lift the caliper from the mount and check for rust build-up both on the caliper mount points and the mounting frame 4) if rust is detected, sand off with heavy grit sandpaper (40 grit should suffice) then coat the metal parts of both areas with a silicone-based grease. If the rust is on the guide pins, clean them the same way with slightly less coarse sandpaper and coat them as well. If the guide pins are done, putting a bit of silicone-based grease in each of the rubber boots that house the pins would help, as well since they also shield slider bushings for the guide pins. Just make certain that when lubing the metal parts that you don't get any lube on the pads or rotors. Then 4) re-assemble the brakes by reversing steps 1 to 3 then repeat for each corner of the vehicle. Doing it this way, with 2 wheels off at a time gives you a reference point to make certain you re-assemble correctly as, if in doubt, you can look at the assembled side as a guideline.

Star09

Niteshade, I should have been more specific. What I meant is that it has cut out in the high rev area just just before the beep would engage, and only for a sec before reengaging. I have only had it cut out because of the beep a couple of times since getting it and I try not to have it do that. I usually, when revving it, shift just before the beep, but occasionally with the beginning of the beep.

Star09

Mysterion, thanks for that information. I think that is definitely worth a try. Certainly can't hurt. We do have some pressing car repairs for his car, but soon after we should be able to get to this.

Thanks for the directions. It would definitely be something we would do ourselves. :-)

I do have one other question. Do you hear your a/c compressor turn on and off with a clicking sound? Is that normal? I didn't notice mine till after getting it back from the dealer checking it over. Thanks!

Mysterion

With a Bose stereo?? Hear a click?? Most assuredly you jest! I am usually extremely lucky if I can hear myself thinking!!

Seriously, though, when air air conditioner compressor kicks in, you usually will hear what might be described as a click accompanied by a slight decrease in RPM's at an idle. This is nothing serious to worry about as it is merely the climate control system engaging and putting a bit more load on the engine. You might also notice the exact opposite when it shuts down as the cabin reaches the proper temperature. The only time you really need to worry is if it starts squeaking or squealing which indicates bearing problems or if it sqeals even with the air off accompanied by a burning rubber smell indicating a seized compressor clutch or compressor as a whole.