Broken SSV Bolt
#1
Broken SSV Bolt
04 Manual with 20k original miles, picked this car up for dirt cheap with some obvious issues. One being the ssv being stuck. I removed the ssv and discovered a broken bolt (bottom bolt). From what I gather was with the amount of rtv they had on the lower portion of the ssv, it wasn't sitting flush causing it to get stuck, this was a brand new ssv, but had obvious wear marks from it rubbing the inside of the LIM.
I
I am mechanically inclined (work at Nissan) but drilling bolts and retapping holes is my kryptonite, I gave it a shot an mangled up the hole so much worse. Ive called every mechanic in town and no body wants to do the job or charges over $150 to do this (which I can't afford right now)... I have the subframe off doing some other repair work, would this in anyway make it easier or possible to remove the LIM without COMPLETLY removing the engine. I am desperate for a solution so any advice or suggestions would be great
I
I am mechanically inclined (work at Nissan) but drilling bolts and retapping holes is my kryptonite, I gave it a shot an mangled up the hole so much worse. Ive called every mechanic in town and no body wants to do the job or charges over $150 to do this (which I can't afford right now)... I have the subframe off doing some other repair work, would this in anyway make it easier or possible to remove the LIM without COMPLETLY removing the engine. I am desperate for a solution so any advice or suggestions would be great
#2
Boosted Kiwi
iTrader: (2)
04 Manual with 20k original miles, picked this car up for dirt cheap with some obvious issues. One being the ssv being stuck. I removed the ssv and discovered a broken bolt (bottom bolt). From what I gather was with the amount of rtv they had on the lower portion of the ssv, it wasn't sitting flush causing it to get stuck, this was a brand new ssv, but had obvious wear marks from it rubbing the inside of the LIM.
I
I am mechanically inclined (work at Nissan) but drilling bolts and retapping holes is my kryptonite, I gave it a shot an mangled up the hole so much worse. Ive called every mechanic in town and no body wants to do the job or charges over $150 to do this (which I can't afford right now)... I have the subframe off doing some other repair work, would this in anyway make it easier or possible to remove the LIM without COMPLETLY removing the engine. I am desperate for a solution so any advice or suggestions would be great
I
I am mechanically inclined (work at Nissan) but drilling bolts and retapping holes is my kryptonite, I gave it a shot an mangled up the hole so much worse. Ive called every mechanic in town and no body wants to do the job or charges over $150 to do this (which I can't afford right now)... I have the subframe off doing some other repair work, would this in anyway make it easier or possible to remove the LIM without COMPLETLY removing the engine. I am desperate for a solution so any advice or suggestions would be great
With a center punch .... punch a large indent into the broken bolt so you have a nice pocket to get your drill bit started .
Get hold of a new extra hard drill bit (cobolt are failry common) next size down from core diameter of thread.
Drill it right through to bottom of bolt.
Get an 'easyout ' and unscrew the remnants of the bolt. If thread is too munted to refit a bolt : get a suitable helicoil and drill tap and fit .
Alternatively you couldd drill and tap for the next bolt size up.
#3
A pic of what you are trying to deal with now might be helpful. I would attack it like this :
With a center punch .... punch a large indent into the broken bolt so you have a nice pocket to get your drill bit started .
Get hold of a new extra hard drill bit (cobolt are failry common) next size down from core diameter of thread.
Drill it right through to bottom of bolt.
Get an 'easyout ' and unscrew the remnants of the bolt. If thread is too munted to refit a bolt : get a suitable helicoil and drill tap and fit .
Alternatively you couldd drill and tap for the next bolt size up.
With a center punch .... punch a large indent into the broken bolt so you have a nice pocket to get your drill bit started .
Get hold of a new extra hard drill bit (cobolt are failry common) next size down from core diameter of thread.
Drill it right through to bottom of bolt.
Get an 'easyout ' and unscrew the remnants of the bolt. If thread is too munted to refit a bolt : get a suitable helicoil and drill tap and fit .
Alternatively you couldd drill and tap for the next bolt size up.
I tried that and made it worse.... The drill bit walked on me and I kept mangling the hole up more. Broke 2 cobalt bits... I have an easy out but can't get the damn pilot hole started... even with a center punch
#5
Driving my unreliable rx8
I like to use left hand bits for stuff like that. They make some small sets for just this. They drill then bite and the screw will come right out.
#7
Driving my unreliable rx8
New 5pc Nickel ptd HSS Broken Rusted Stripped Screw and Bolt Remover Extractor | eBay
the ones I have are a lot like this one. I'll post a pic when I get home in a few days. I bought them from MAC.
the ones I have are a lot like this one. I'll post a pic when I get home in a few days. I bought them from MAC.
#8
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Scroll down on the ebay ad, it states these are for wood screw removal. The last thing I bought that was Chinese and any good was Sweet and sour pork, everything thing else is crapola.
#10
Mix up some ATF and acetone ... 50-50 spray it down . soak it . let it sit over night . I have removed many exhaust manifold bolts on tractor that have sat for 20 years or more using the ATF and Acetone ...
I use reverse hand drill bits bought from Auto Fasteners . Never had much luck with the screw extractors ...mangled holes ...
Pray , sweet talk it ...
Good luck with it
I use reverse hand drill bits bought from Auto Fasteners . Never had much luck with the screw extractors ...mangled holes ...
Pray , sweet talk it ...
Good luck with it
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