Hi I have a 2004 RX-8 GT with 42,000KM'S Coils and plugs were replaced at 27,000 KM'S

My car runs smoothly and fine without the A/C but with the A/C on it is really difficult to keep the car stedy in a block it feels like car is almost dieing when I'm breaking.. and sometimes it dies and starts just fine ...

what should be my issue..

 

probably not good, if it really is running good. Do you have a way of reading the car's sensors?

If not an OBDII bluetooth dongle and the torque app is a good cheap solution. We can look at some of the outputs and that will help us guess a bit better. MAF, STFT, LTFT, and load at idle will help us a lot to point toward troubles.

Othen than that I'd say clean the ESS and do the 20 brake stomp reset, and get a compression test.

 

Hi yes I do have a OBD II Scanner and my maf reading n idle is around 6 ... and I do have a problem n my AC system I do not have a stock condenser and dealer told me even my A/C compressor is also not in a very good condition..

I have a K&N air filter and I checked it recently and it was dirty and I'm gona change it to stock paper filter as well.

My ESS was good and cleaned recently..

 

Maf is a little high but about right. What about atft, ltft, and load?

Do them both with and without ac on.

Is it a kn filter in the stock box or a kn intake?

Also that changes a lot. If you got known ac problems and possibly missiszed equipment. Check your ac pressures. Both of them. They'll tell you what's going on with your ac. But those other numbers I asked for might give a clue to engine health or other problems.

 

Thank you for the quick response and I will get back to you with the numbers.
K&N is filter is n the stock box.

I didnt had A/C properly from the day day I brought my car .. it had a leak in the system but whenever I refill the A/C refrigent it works fine . So very recently I replaced the A/C evaporator
And refilled the system but yet again it got leaked ... stalling issue happens only when my A/C compressor kicks on with a click sound ...

 

Sounds like a clogged system over pressuring and probably venting the fluid due to pressure. There was a guy not too long ago who was fussing about his compressor venting.

Who did the ac work?

 

Hi I checked the engine load today and it was

In DRIVE WITH A/C it was between 53 and 55 (idle)

Without A/C it was 46-47 (idle)

IN PARK load was with A/C 48 -49(IDLE)

Without A/C 35-37 (IDLE)

 

Well I'll say normally a good healthy engine should idle around 25 load.

I wouldn't waste anymore time or money until you get a compression test.

Make sure it is a rotary specific test. It should give you 3 numbers and a rpm per a rotor. For a total of 8 numbers. That'll tell you the health of the engine. Post them here and we'll help you know just how good or bad they are. A lot of dealers try to bs you on it.

The test should be below 200 bucks. 100ish is common but it does go toward 200 at some places.

 

How can you say a healthy engine idles at around 25% load? There are two engine load readings in Torque. "Engine Load" and "Engine Load Absolute". Which one are you referring to?

 

I. Can say it from tuning several engines and studying many logs from probably a few hundred cars. If you had high load with the ac on and low with it off I would say it's the ac putting the strain on the system. But it has high load with the ac off. So the engine is struggling to stay running. Put in other factors. It should idle around 5.5 g/sec
Yours is at 6. That's a good number so I can assume you have no vacuum leaks. Then I looked at your fuel trims which are a bit high also but nothing crazy. Which indicates you don't have a fuel system problem.


I don't use torque so I can't say which one. Try the other one and see if you get different results.

 

The load is almost 20 pct higher in drive than park. So it might be something with the trans. I can't say I've ever del with an auto before. But 35 at idle in neutral is quite high.

 

I have a 2012 automatic with 2000 miles and my car's engine load is around 35% as well. With AC on in drive, if goes up to around 50%. The engine load absolute however, is around 25%. A pretty much brand new car with the same numbers as this guy. So according to you, our engines are failing?

 

Well differance #1 is 8 years and a large differance in engine design from series 1 to series 2 that you have. If that alone is not good enough factor in the many thousands of engine failures. Many of which were under 30kmiles.

On top of that Reaser ch the things I pointed out and you'll see many referances.

As a final note I said I don't use torque and am not sure about automatics. I don't see above 50 pct load with my 05 6 speed unless I'm over 100 mph or my foot is on the floor and your seeing that at idle. Something is probably wrong.

So yes there's probably a problem with your almost new 4 year old engine. And you'd be really smart to get a test while it's still under warrenty.