Hi

I test drove a 2003 rx8 (230) last week and loved it, I bought it there and then and arranged to collect it the following weekend (today).

I've spent pretty much a solid 7 days reading this forum and making sure the tips for new owners and the $100 mods list posts where pretty much memorised.

I went today to collect it but I'd it didnt go to plan.

I drove straight to the nearest petrol station (about 3miles away) and filled her up, I the. Started to drive home but about 3/6miles down the road the engine died, it was as if I'd stalled it but was doing around 30mph at about 3000rpm so know I hadnt. I had battery, engine and power steering light on.


Within the hour I'd been towed and was back at the garage I bought it from, they claimed it was because the battery was flat, then used a booster to restart the car (I got the Impression that they thought I'd stalled it and killed the battery trying to restart it)


Happy to believe that a dead battery had cause it (but still not really understanding how, if there was no electrics to the fuel pump then surely it would die shortly after starting?)

I got about 1/3 of a mile before the exact same thing, 30mph traffic, 3rd gear. This time it happens when I was in the process of stopping, I had my clutch fully down, so I knew I hadn't stalled it. Engine dead, same warning lights. This time my wife jump started the car from her battery and I drove back to the garage, they again claimed it was the dead battery and said they'd look into it and have it ready for Monday

So I guess what I can't understand it: it the battery was dead so that it killed the engine, how come hazards, radio, lights etc still worked fine? I previously owned a Alfa and when the battery was flat everything died, why not with this?

I've seen post about people's cars cutting out do to a fuel pump failing, if that was the case wouldn't that appear in a MOT? (It had MOT 2days ago and emissions test)

Would these symptoms only appear with a fuel pump failure or is there any other possibility?

 

if the battery is dead....and you jump it...and the alternator is OK...it will charge and run OK

If the battery is low...and the alternator ISN'T charging...the car will run for a few minutes till the voltage drops below where things will work..and then the car dies...

Check the alternator

 

Ok, that makes sense, I guess in a way it a good thing the battery is flat as a full one might mask an alternator problem.

Presumably a dead/bad battery that won't hold a charge/recharge could also be a possibility?


Will get it checked, thanks

 

I would suggest to them that you intended to buy a car with a good battery. and they replace it.

Batteries and Alternators are related, a bad alternator will hose the battery before it dies and gets replaced, then, the hosed batter with beat up the alternator until it finally dies and is replaced. You now have an alternator that is damaged, the cycle goes on and on.

 

Makes sense to make sure the both get replaced then, thanks for the advice

 

I recommend checking your alternator, and planning on replacing your battery. Batteries greatly dislike being completely discharged, so that used (twice abused) battery could be on it's last leg.

I also want to say, I had a similar problem with mine, and it was a marginally operating fuel pump. This is a know issue with the 8's, and the fuel pump will fail under high demand before just failing completely.

If your alternator turn's out to be good; you may want to look there next.
Depending on your comfort level of performing maintenance, you can get replacement pump motors for about $30, and the o-ring tool for about $20. That fixed all my problems; and sure beats a $300 new pump assembly.

 

Funny enough, my first thought was the fuel pump, but I read a post on here suggesting that if the car can be red lined in 1st gear then the suggestion is that the fuel dilivery is fine.

Still, for $50 is worth doing regardless

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/331578103356?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AITI can't speak for the quality of these motors, as I only have 1000 miles on my replacement.

If you have someone willing to loan you the gas tank removal tool; you'll save yourself about $30; but you will most likely break the thing trying to get it off, and it costs more than the tool.

I also prescribed to the redlining, as that was my experience with my old car, when it had a clogged pump. However, my 8's pump was only failing at high temp. It would run great for about 10 minutes, then the pump would cut out as it got too hot. I replaced the pump mostly out of desperation, but it turned out to be the issue.

 

Update:

So I got the garage to replace the battery, the car drove great for 2.days and I thought nothing of it, however today it died again, this time I got a jump start and drove home (as I was only about 50yards away)

When I got back I got a multimeter/ volt meter on the battery and other then being pretty flat it was the right spect/rating etc and had the rights volts etc (I had a qualify guy do it, which is why my description of it is rubbish)

We (he) then tested the output from the alternator and everything was fine/as it should have been.

On closer inspection of the battery though there is a small gap between the connection and battery terminal, so cleaning up the terminals and connectors is my next job, now I know the battery and alternator are working correctly.

I have it booked in for a service so that should (hopefully) spot any other issues