Car warms up after 9min & loses power then shuts off
07-30-2014, 10:26 AM
#1
New Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car warms up after 9min & loses power then shuts off
GOODMORNING
I have a 04 auto and paddle shifters,160k miles, just got new coils, spark plugs ,fuel pump, new air filter, runs on only premium gas, new CAT , just cleaned mafs and ESS ,problem only happens on afternoons when sun is hot, battery is good but heats up really quick like 5 mins aswell as the car,
I would appreciate ya'lls help, thks
Greetings jonathan
I have a 04 auto and paddle shifters,160k miles, just got new coils, spark plugs ,fuel pump, new air filter, runs on only premium gas, new CAT , just cleaned mafs and ESS ,problem only happens on afternoons when sun is hot, battery is good but heats up really quick like 5 mins aswell as the car,
I would appreciate ya'lls help, thks
Greetings jonathan
Last edited by Jonathan10a; 07-30-2014 at 10:29 AM.
07-30-2014, 10:38 AM
#2
Is this the cars original engine? Best bet is to go to your nearest Mazda dealer or rotary specialist and get it compression tested. Sounds like it could be a symptom of low compression.
07-30-2014, 10:44 AM
#4
Registered
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 16,684
Likes: 0
Received 252 Likes
on
110 Posts
Does Autozone have a rotary engine compression tester? Did they test it with the plugs installed in the car? or did they test it with the plugs removed? What were the compression scores? Did they give you scores in kg/cm2? psi? kpa? Did they normalize the numbers to 250rpm properly?Which calculator did they use?
07-30-2014, 10:49 AM
#5
New Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
didnt give me the digit scores ill go today and do them again but will tell them to give me the #
Last edited by RIWWP; 07-30-2014 at 10:49 AM. Reason: edited to remove comment
07-30-2014, 10:51 AM
#6
FULLY SEMI AUTOMATIC
iTrader: (9)
07-30-2014, 10:53 AM
#7
Registered
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 16,684
Likes: 0
Received 252 Likes
on
110 Posts
The first word of your post was removed.
RX8Club.com - FAQ: RX8Club.com Forum Rules
I can assure you that they didn't give you a proper compression test. You need to go to the dealer for one. If they did actually give you a compression test, it was almost certainly with an analog compression tester, which can't give you the compression numbers for each individual face of each rotor.
https://www.rx8club.com/new-member-f...4/#post4533734
RX8Club.com - FAQ: RX8Club.com Forum Rules
5. No racist, homophobic, or misogynistic remarks, including derogatory slang, be it overt or covert, will be tolerated.
I can assure you that they didn't give you a proper compression test. You need to go to the dealer for one. If they did actually give you a compression test, it was almost certainly with an analog compression tester, which can't give you the compression numbers for each individual face of each rotor.
https://www.rx8club.com/new-member-f...4/#post4533734
I got my compression test. What do these numbers mean?
You should have gotten numbers in a format something like this:
Rotor 1: 7.5, 7.6, 7.5
Rotor 2: 7.2, 7.3, 7.3
250 RPM
- The 6 numbers, 3 for each rotor, are your compression scores, one for each face of each rotor in the engine.
- If you don't have all 6 rotor face scores and at least 1 RPM number, your compression scores are going to be vague and hard to interpret.
- You may also have your compression scores in a different scale, such as PSI.
- The RPM is the speed at which the test was done.
- The RPM is critical to interpreting the numbers, as rotary compression changes with engine speed, especially at low RPM.
- Since the engine is spun by your starter, this is ALSO a good indication of the health of your starter!
You should have gotten numbers in a format something like this:
Rotor 1: 7.5, 7.6, 7.5
Rotor 2: 7.2, 7.3, 7.3
250 RPM
- The 6 numbers, 3 for each rotor, are your compression scores, one for each face of each rotor in the engine.
- If you don't have all 6 rotor face scores and at least 1 RPM number, your compression scores are going to be vague and hard to interpret.
- You may also have your compression scores in a different scale, such as PSI.
- The RPM is the speed at which the test was done.
- The RPM is critical to interpreting the numbers, as rotary compression changes with engine speed, especially at low RPM.
- Since the engine is spun by your starter, this is ALSO a good indication of the health of your starter!
07-30-2014, 11:04 AM
#10
Registered
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 16,684
Likes: 0
Received 252 Likes
on
110 Posts
I know that this isn't what you want to hear, but until you rule it out, and I mean ACTUALLY rule it out, then it's going to be the number one suggestion and we aren't going to be pointing at anything else. You already ruled out everything else with parts replacements, and you haven't ruled out compression problems despite what you think.
07-30-2014, 11:12 AM
#12
Registered
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 16,684
Likes: 0
Received 252 Likes
on
110 Posts
2 points from that:
1) I gather you had the rev limiter increased then? Since the 2004 Auto had a rev limit of 7,500rpm, not 9,000. What else did you change on the ECU at the same time?
2) The rotary engine makes more compression that faster it spins. A compression problem will always manifest at idle when high RPM still feels perfect. The fact that it pulls strongly at high RPM doesn't rule out a compression problem. A rotary engine without any seals at all will still run if you keep the RPMs high enough, but will stall out when they get too low.
1) I gather you had the rev limiter increased then? Since the 2004 Auto had a rev limit of 7,500rpm, not 9,000. What else did you change on the ECU at the same time?
2) The rotary engine makes more compression that faster it spins. A compression problem will always manifest at idle when high RPM still feels perfect. The fact that it pulls strongly at high RPM doesn't rule out a compression problem. A rotary engine without any seals at all will still run if you keep the RPMs high enough, but will stall out when they get too low.
07-30-2014, 11:14 AM
#13
A few other common/cheaper things that cause stalling are:
1. Vacuum leak (check all intake connections and piping)
2. Dirty MAF
3. Dirty throttle body
4. Clogged fuel filter
5. Failing fuel pump
Check the Engine Troubleshooting section of the service manual (PDF here)
Bryan
1. Vacuum leak (check all intake connections and piping)
2. Dirty MAF
3. Dirty throttle body
4. Clogged fuel filter
5. Failing fuel pump
Check the Engine Troubleshooting section of the service manual (PDF here)
Bryan
07-30-2014, 11:37 AM
#15
FULLY SEMI AUTOMATIC
iTrader: (9)
pearl just walk away buddy
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post