Riffy

Since I’ve gotten the car (November 2020) my CEL flashes when it cranks. But I have no codes stored or pending.

Albeit it does take slightly longer to crank than it should but my compression was good when I got it.

I changed the coils and plugs, and wires (twice) to verify it wasn’t those. And now I’m kinda stuck.

wannawankel

What codes are thrown if read by a OBD-][ reader? Age and health of battery?

Riffy

As said in my post, there is no codes stored, and there’s none showing as pending either. My battery is less than a year old and has 12.3v when acc on. When cranking drops to 11 something.

Rattlehead

From what i remember,Car is still completing a drive cycle.
just drive it and itll go away. Mine did this after disconnecting battery.

Riffy

My drive cycles have been ready for quite some time.

But forward rotor leading coil is shot that’s what is causing it... working on it as I type!

Riffy

Update to bump:

replaced all 4 plugs and coils. Still takes forever to start and the engine light flashes and stays steady for a second then keeps flashing when cranking.

The exhaust smells strongly of fuel still when cranking.

compression was tested recently and passed.


I’m really kind of stuck here, as the starter works just fine and the starting rpm is plenty sufficient enough and should be starting.


edit: the plot thickens... when getting jumped at auto zone after the battery died from trying to start...


it was cranking at N RPMS (I’m not sure exactly because I didn’t have the scan tool on) then out of nowhere the cranking rpms shot up like crazy and it started right up no problems.

Rattlehead

This to replace for better start up
coils
Plugs/wires
Upgrade starter
Battery

A good battery will help all the above

Riffy

As said in the post, coils and plugs are new.

The battery is less than a year old and is in perfect shape and doesn’t drop below 12 volts even when cranking.

Riffy

I just got home after getting jump started at Autozone after my battery died from trying to start so many times...


While my car is hot, I can turn it off and start it every time within seconds no problem at all.

But after it sits for about 2-5 minutes it refuses to start.

Rattlehead

Have you checked fuel pressure?

hyksos

Check your ground, might be rusted.

Riffy

Before I dig into the wiring diagrams, know off the top of your head where the ground for the coils, and starter are?

To my knowledge the coils are just grounded to the block from the bracket. But I have no clue about the starter

Loki

iTrader: (1)

The stock coils don't have their own ground (or it's through the bracket as you say). Many aftermarket coils do.

The CEL flashes if you keep the car in ON for longer than x seconds without running the engine so if it takes you time to start, it could be that and is normal (the flashing, not how long it takes to start). What is your cranking rpm? If it's significantly below 250, it's time for the upgraded starter, which will shorten your startup time.

That's all I can think of given that the battery is holding above 12V and coils have been replaced. Maybe clean the battery terminals for safe measure.

hyksos

The fact that it start without problem when he get boosted and the fact that he have a new battery point to a bad electric connection. Can be bad battery terminal but I suspect a bad ground with the engine block.

To locate the ground follow the cable from the negative terminal of the battery, you should see one going to the chassis and one goes to the engine.

Riffy

It starts without a problem off of battery too, it just has to be hot.

Riffy

Just ran a log I can send it if you want. Rpm is 350rpm, cranked for 12 1/2 seconds. Voltage didn’t drop below 12v. Coolant temperature when starting was 172 degrees. AFR when the O2 sensors started commanding the ecu read just below 12:1 when it started then settled at stoic.
I let it run for about 25 seconds until it warmed up to 179 degrees, turned it off and it only cranked and started in under 2 seconds consistently after that.

Subsequently, I was able to recreate the scenario where it cranks lower. I turned the car off, popped the hood, and went inside the gas station for no longer than 5 minutes. Coolant temp was at 205. I tried cranking and everything stays consistent except voltage which drops to about 11.6~11.8v (only when cranking otherwise it jumps back to 12.5~12.8 depending on how long Ive been trying) and the cranking RPM ranges from 240-250rpm and there’s a very pungent (way more than usual thought I was flooded) scent of gas coming from the exhaust when cranking.

Loki

iTrader: (1)

What about cold starts? Are they always worse?

Because one thing that causes poor starting after sitting is coolant seeping into the chambers via a compromised coolant seal. It has a sweet smell when burned and you could find coolant deposits on the spark plugs to confirm.