travisinthe8

Im experiencing power loss and a cyl 1 misfire code, no flashing CEL.

the power loss will start at 6k rpm ish to redline feels like my power goes to 0 and it wont continue to revv freely.

no CAT converter

recently replaced ignition componenets less than 1k miles on all of it

new MAF after experiencing limp mode issues

all data read at 999rpm idle and full operating temp after 15 mins of driving
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MAF reads 1.63lb/min maximum im pretty sure it should be closer to 5

long term trim -2.3% min and max

short term trim -10.2% minimum 3.9% maximum

AFR 13.467 min 16.336 max

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Im also chasing down a really long cold start issue, im too poor to compression test atm.

but im like 90% sure the fuel injectors leak into the combustion chamber due to the thick grey smoke on startup, it also floods itself from time to time. Luckily i live on a hill!

travisinthe8

After doing some further investigation into the symptoms thread, one symptom of the engine choking out as revvs increase is a fraying accessory belt.

i have an oil leak from the cooler lines that goes directly onto the accessory drive. The belt squeals from the oil from time to time. Gonna go ahead and track down my oil leak, replace the belt, clean all accessories and install a new accessory belt.

travisinthe8

While i have the upper half of the engine apart im going to go ahead and clean the vaccum actuated intake, ssv, etc. and replace the intake solenoids to insure that everything is functioning properly.

Loki

iTrader: (1)

For the MAF rate it should be 5.7g/sec at 800 rpm. 1.63 lb/min is 12.6g/sec which might be ok for 1000 rpm but my question is why is your car idling at 1k?

A belt wouldn't cause your engine to underperform.

Grey smoke and hard start after sitting typically points to coolant or oil seeping into the combustion chamber. So oil control rings or coolant jacket seal. I'd pull the plugs and see what they tell you. Coolant deposits, excess oil..etc. Power loss at high rpm would also be consistent with side seal/oil control ring because blowby forces oil up the fill neck into the intake and chokes the engine. If there's any oil in your intake, that'll confirm it.

Fuel injectors don't leak without fuel pressure, so I wouldn't spend too much time on that.

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travisinthe8

thanks for the reply!

for some reason i keep having this issue randomly and it even happened on an old engine.

gonna pull the plugs, but every time ive replaced them they are golden

im going to double check all of the connections with the spark plugs, not sure if im installing the wires incorrectly but i always seem to break the r2 bottom spark plug wire. I replace it and the engine acts normal again. Ive gone thru at least 6-7 sets of wires. Mostly different brands, ngk, and a few other aftermarket options


wouldnt oil consumption become an issue with bad oil control rings? Funny enough my oil level never goes down on my dipstick. Even with the oil cooler line seeping from somewhere.

although this car only sees track time and the oil gets changed every other event maybe im too ****

Loki

iTrader: (1)

In other cases where oil never goes down, I've seen it be due to fuel/premix dilution. Enough fuel makes it past the rings to make up for whatever oil is burned, but! That wouldn't really work if you're only doing track time and going through liters of oil per day via the OMP.

Is your OMP actually working? Are you premixing?

The bottom wires are leading, they do most of the ignition work so losing that one definitely hurts. I wonder why you would be breaking them though, unless it's the wrong wire length and is stretched?

What all parts were carried over from the old engine to the current one? I'd start going through those and verifying one by one.

Since you did replace the engine, possible the injectors were mislocated/miswired it's a very easy mistake to make and can give weird symptoms. Around 6-7k is when the APV opens and the injectors staging changes, so that could be a clue.

travisinthe8

i can drain the oil, i have all the stuff to do an oil change and take a small sample to compare it with new oil.

i strictly run 20w50 vr1 full synthetic the blue ****

I have heard many arguments against running full synthetic but i will take my chances on that one.

running sohn adapter and omp is fully functioning

premix 2oz per gallon of gas

i use 2 stroke interceptor oil because i have a local distributor that gets me dirt cheap gallons. I verified it is JASO FD certified so that shouldnt be an issue

the connection to the spark plug itself becomes loose and will no longer make an audible snap into place that you can also feel when installing the wire onto the plug.

i was extremely paranoid when doing my engine replacement, the engine ran fantastic so i swapped everything over onto the new engine.

kinda want my old motor back LOL

i did a manual conversion so i could not re use the old engine.

i had a buddy do the harness for me since hes done it a handful of times and its very possible he messed something up, however the engine ran great for a long time and this issue seems to be as of recent.

travisinthe8

As for your question about 1k rpm idle speed i was having issues idling with the ultralite flywheel and carbon fiber driveshaft, im still running off of the stock auto ecu which took a bit of messing with the japanese manual ecu calibration and copying that to the auto ecu calibration. I did the manual swap the “cheap” way

travisinthe8

I think ive got the source of the problem nailed!

oil leaking all over the accesory drive belt, slung oil into every single ignition coil!!!!

going to clean everything and test.

what would be the best way of finding an oil leak on a renny?

Loki

iTrader: (1)

Like any other car, clean it up, run for a bit and see where it's wet again. There aren't too many places in front where it *can* leak.. OMP, front main seal, oil cooler hoses. Front main seal will leak more under high rpm, so try driving lightly first, then if no new oil is present, drive it hard and check again. For it to end up on the belt, it would have to be misted so either FMS or oil cooler hose.

travisinthe8

Ive solved the power loss issue for now!

things ive done
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cleaned ess, connector, and reset it

Swap suspect spark plug wire

cleaned all 4 oem coils and connectors

cleaned entire engine, and removed and cleaned the belt
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Still hunting the leak i think its everywhere at this point

going to do an oil change after swapping all oil cooler line copper crush washers

will compare oil samples.

from the small sample i have from the catch can, it only seems to be dark dirty burnt oil not my usual chocolate milkshake. Couldnt see any metal shavings or smell presence of gasoline. The consistancy was extremely similar to brand new oil.

keep in mind this car get its oil changed every 1k ish miles because of how hard its ran

will cut open filter and see the guts

travisinthe8

I cut the oil filter open and there was not even one shred of glitter and the oil has no remnance of coolant or gasoline

travisinthe8

I FOUND THE MISFIRE!

rotor 1 spark plugs both leading and trailing were bent downwards

not sure how it happened im asuming a detonation event

replaced them with some old ones i had lying around that i cleaned with brass and 99.9% isopropyl alcohol

Looks like im gonna probably need a new engine soon 🥳🥳🥳🥳

gonna compression test it sometime after i race this weekend

TLDR: SAVE ALL YOUR OLD IGNITION COMPONENTS IN A BOX might save your *** one day like it did mine

MincVinyl

Do you have pics?

Should probably make sure it wasn't some other issue that caused it. Failing Fuel pump(cant keep up at higher rpm)? Bad gas? over rev? mismatched spark plug leads? Coils plugged in wrong? Lean out from injector?