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Hey everyone, selling my 986 Boxster S and I have been looking for an RX-8 for over a month now, all I can say is that it has been an extremely difficult endeavor to find one that isn’t ragged out or that obviously needs an engine rebuilt, but I found a single owner 2004 model with 51,000 miles, velocity red, six speed manual. Owner says everything is great on the car, the only repairs done were years ago, new coil packs, plugs, and catalytic converter on warranty.
I am considering offering 5,300 cash, is this a fair price? I asked him if he would do a compression test at the Mazda dealer and he was like, “why for an engine with so few miles?”
I don’t believe he was hiding something, but rather he is a non-enthusiast owner, the kind of owner that is responsible, if the car was your typical internal combustion piston car, lol.
Last edited by CodyAlanB5; 09-16-2019 at 05:45 PM.
Him getting a compression test depends how badly he wants to sell the car.
You getting the compression test depends how confident you want to be you’re purchasing a good car.
It's very easy to do. Keep your cooling system and ignition system in good shape. I usually replace coolant hoses, spark plugs, wires and coils on a new purchase (radiator and cooling fans optional. Not necessary if both working well) because i just never trust previous owners. Also, good to change all fluids: transmission, rear diff, coolant (Mazda FL-22 only!!) and engine oil. Do oil changes every 3000 miles and check your oil every second time you fill up (add oil if needed but don't overfill). Use 10W40 conventional oil and if you have no emissions laws, get a decat and a midpipe for better exhaust flow as well as premix JASO FD rated 2 stroke oil (Both Lucas and Amsoil work great) for better lubrication for engine seals. Premix ratio for catted RX-8's is .5oz per gallon of gas (always use premium!!), for decatted RX-8's you can go 1oz per gallon. Read through the new owner sticky and get yourself a good scan tool. Other than that, should be smooth sailing.
Last edited by CaymanRotary; 09-17-2019 at 01:53 PM.
I don’t want to do a cat delete entirely, but would opt for a metal substrate catalytic converters, and good options out there for a metal core 🐈?
what about the SOHN adaptor? I really like the idea of injecting fresh 2 stroke oil and being able to run full synthetic.
Lastly, what about raising the oil pressure? I believe Mazmart offers this fix.
Well, I just run catless because no emissions here so I dont know too much about good alternatives. All I know is, dont go cheap.
Sohn adapter a great idea. This way, you can run full synthetic oil and have a longer oil change period. Makes no sense to run synthetic without it due to frequent oil changes plus I'm skeptical that it burns as well as conventional oil. Great mod.
Well, I just run catless because no emissions here so I dont know too much about good alternatives. All I know is, dont go cheap.
Sohn adapter a great idea. This way, you can run full synthetic oil and have a longer oil change period. Makes no sense to run synthetic without it due to frequent oil changes plus I'm skeptical that it burns as well as conventional oil. Great mod.
Yes, check MazMart.
Apparently form what I have read these catalytic converters risk melting down if ever preventative maintenance on the ignition isn’t kept up to day. Looking at a BHR catless midpipe, that being said, is it common to expect discoloration and/or melting the bumper if I choose to go catless and keep the OEM muffler?
Apparently form what I have read these catalytic converters risk melting down if ever preventative maintenance on the ignition isn’t kept up to day. Looking at a BHR catless midpipe, that being said, is it common to expect discoloration and/or melting the bumper if I choose to go catless and keep the OEM muffler?
Metal substrate cats will melt down even if you do everything right. Rotary EGTs are close to melting point of many materials.
You shouldn't expect melting or discoloration if you stick with reasonable size exhaust tips.
Apparently form what I have read these catalytic converters risk melting down if ever preventative maintenance on the ignition isn’t kept up to day. Looking at a BHR catless midpipe, that being said, is it common to expect discoloration and/or melting the bumper if I choose to go catless and keep the OEM muffler?
Not really, just make sure the tailpipe extends far enough out. Been running an aftermarket exhaust for over a year. Still looks pristine with my Manzo Catback.
Got the results back on the compression test and it’s a no go, rear rotor was good but the front rotor failed on two sides, that’s a bummer.
I think I am going to give up on finding an RX-8, I just cannot find one that is in good shape mechanically and cosmetically. They seemingly do not exist.
Why would they not adjust the numbers to 250 RPM? That's actually close to passing. Front rotor is concerning though still due to difference in numbers. Definitely pass on this one but keep looking!
Last edited by CaymanRotary; 09-20-2019 at 03:59 PM.
Don't give up. There are well kept specimens with healthy engines. But they are also priced accordingly.
Or you can buy one with a blown engine and swap in a refurb Renesis. In the era of sameness and fake exhaust noise, the RX-8 is an intoxicating nectar of freshness and honest character.
There are the numbers adjusted to rpm and altitude
Unfortunately, still a fail due to lost compression on two rotor surfaces. The difference of nearly 30 psi means that engine is close to done. Shame, would have been perfect otherwise, looks like it was well cared for by the pics. Worth fixing 100% but the owner needs to be realistic. I'd go no more than $3,000 on it.
Well, I finally pulled the lever and said “screw it.” I am tired of looking at low mileage series 1 cars, only to be surprised and disappointed. I found a 2011 RX-8 R3 with 30,000 miles, and the owner is willing to get a compression test, it is twice what I wanted to pay but at least the engine has a warranty to go with it and none of the problems that plague the 2004 model.
The R3 can have similar problems to the S1. That being said, it is newer and more reliable because of it. The fact the engine has a warranty is a huge plus as well. You really do get more for your money on these cars so hopefully it works out!
09-16-2019, 05:42 PM
