Crank no fire
#1
Crank no fire
Hello new to the group I recently just purchased a 04 that is having a hard time starting and staying running supposedly the engine is rebuilt so far I have of course deflooded. changed the plugs. wires and BHR coils. new crank shaft position sensor and still the same thing I do have a new fuel pump and upstream O2 on the way but is there anybody that has ran into a problem like this before with a motor swap? Like I said I did not do the swap myself so any pointers would be greatly appreciated another key factor is that it will start once cold but as soon as it warms up it will not want to re-fire and if I get it to stay running about five minutes and it’ll kill it on its own. Coolant temp sensor? Or wideband I’m thinking
When I pulled plugs to deflood the right leading was already burnt looking and I’d only ran once or twice since new. Motor does have a tap that comes low rpm but seems to level out at 3k rpm
minimal throttle response
the car is also stuck in open loop fuel
When I pulled plugs to deflood the right leading was already burnt looking and I’d only ran once or twice since new. Motor does have a tap that comes low rpm but seems to level out at 3k rpm
minimal throttle response
the car is also stuck in open loop fuel
Last edited by Chillgates; 04-08-2022 at 03:09 AM.
#3
Modulated Moderator
iTrader: (3)
Standard place to start is a compression test. Cold start and warm problems are often low compression.
Other than that check spark... use a HEI type coil tester. Maybe check that the ESS has been reset as well... common thing to forget and if it isn't done it will struggle to idle.
The usual fuel spark compression trio will usually find your.problem
Other than that check spark... use a HEI type coil tester. Maybe check that the ESS has been reset as well... common thing to forget and if it isn't done it will struggle to idle.
The usual fuel spark compression trio will usually find your.problem
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200.mph (04-08-2022)
#5
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When it is running what are your fuel trims saying. If they are staying at 0 and it's stuck in the loop then it's the upstream o2 sensor.
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Chillgates (04-10-2022)
#6
FULLY SEMI AUTOMATIC
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#7
open loop yes. Replace wb and fired right up. Quiet for about 5 min. Then died. And wouldn’t hot start. Showing signs of a weak starter. Am changing this morning 🤙
#8
Registered
#9
it fired up and ran for about 5 min. Sputtered around the block but it did not record any FF data. Did get a new code. P2259 sai “b” circuit low. It was previously showing open loop fuel
#10
Registered
If it's not reading and stft or ltft then it's the WB o2 sensor. If that is bad or a cheap sensor then it will start in closed loop run until warm and shut off when it tries to go into open loop. And it won't start again until it's completely cooled off.
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Chillgates (04-11-2022)
#11
that’s exactly what it’s doing. Ordered a new one
#12
Modulated Moderator
iTrader: (3)
It should start in open loop and then go into closed loop when it warms up. Not the other way around. Usually it will run in either.... just a bit richer in open loop
It will restart in open loop again but transition to closed loop faster when already warm
It should run without dieing and being difficult to restart without an O2 sensor at all, so I'm not so sure that a new sensor will solve your problem.
I would still want a compression check at some point..
It will restart in open loop again but transition to closed loop faster when already warm
It should run without dieing and being difficult to restart without an O2 sensor at all, so I'm not so sure that a new sensor will solve your problem.
I would still want a compression check at some point..
#13
Registered
It should start in open loop and then go into closed loop when it warms up. Not the other way around. Usually it will run in either.... just a bit richer in open loop
It will restart in open loop again but transition to closed loop faster when already warm
It should run without dieing and being difficult to restart without an O2 sensor at all, so I'm not so sure that a new sensor will solve your problem.
I would still want a compression check at some point..
It will restart in open loop again but transition to closed loop faster when already warm
It should run without dieing and being difficult to restart without an O2 sensor at all, so I'm not so sure that a new sensor will solve your problem.
I would still want a compression check at some point..
#14
Modulated Moderator
iTrader: (3)
If the WB was giving you strange readings that would make sense... as soon as it tried to go into closed loop it would try and make whatever the WB was doing make sense and trim it accordingly. Usually WB's die and stop working... that would just leave the trims at 0 and it should still run unless you had a leak or something that needed bigger trims
#15
It should start in open loop and then go into closed loop when it warms up. Not the other way around. Usually it will run in either.... just a bit richer in open loop
It will restart in open loop again but transition to closed loop faster when already warm
It should run without dieing and being difficult to restart without an O2 sensor at all, so I'm not so sure that a new sensor will solve your problem.
I would still want a compression check at some point..
It will restart in open loop again but transition to closed loop faster when already warm
It should run without dieing and being difficult to restart without an O2 sensor at all, so I'm not so sure that a new sensor will solve your problem.
I would still want a compression check at some point..
I did discover a leak on the prim/sec fuel rail. So after having the uim off and on and off and on I managed to get everything sealed up. Went to fire and it will start almost right away and then die. I may have miswired the primaries? I’m going to dive back in it here in a few. Just ran out of time last night.
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04-28-2020 06:09 PM