travisinthe8

Car has all brand new accessories. just did manual conversion, CEL is for missing downstream 02

Loki

iTrader: (1)

Need a lot more detail. Which engine? Which ECU? Is the intake stock?
My first guess is a large vacuum leak, but without knowing what's going on under the hood, hard to ne conclusive.

travisinthe8

2004, 4port jdm. Stock auto 4 port ecu with tcm removed. Shouldnt be a vaccum leak i replaced all hoses and capped anything that wont be used when i did the swap. Been about 1000miles since swap

parts list

-AEM cold air intake
-megan racing catback exhaust
-megan racing midpipe/catdelete
-tubular header
-NPB coils, 10mm plug wires
-ultralite flywheel 7.8lbs
-stage 1 clutch

replaced parts list (replaced at swap)

-ssv system and solenoids (post recall ssv)
-upgraded thermostat
-thermal pellet replacement
-starter
-spark plugs

random mods list

-air pump delete
-catch can (vented to atmosphere) (capped return on intake)
-car is tuned on versatuner for maximum performance by a very respected tuner


idk what could have caused the issue but my first starting place will be going back to OEM ignition coils and spark plug wires

travisinthe8

About to attempt

-TB cleaner
-MAF clean
-return to oem ignition coils

also i need help chasing down a misfire im about to just yank the fuel rail and start testing injectors

ive tried everything i can think of, replaced all of the ignition system and nothings changed with the misfire, i can also include live data logs of the misifre

Loki

iTrader: (1)

Are the injectors and coils wired to the correct positions/spark plugs? Common mistake when swapping engines

You can check fuel trims for evidence of a vacuum leak.

travisinthe8

will check fuel trims on my laptop

double checked coils are properly wires

injectors were never removed simply swapped the harness over and everything ran great for about a month always had the small misfire (flashing CEL) pulls really well and revvs freely all the way past 9k rpm

the two issues ive had since swap are the crazy idle in the video ive sent. and every time i hold about 3750-4k rpm cruising the cel flashes but goes away if i get into the throttle

Loki

iTrader: (1)

It's easy to mix up injector wiring when swapping them or the harness. There are yellow and beige connectors, easy mix up and can cause symptoms like this.

See what you find for fuel trims.

travisinthe8

double checked the connectors are correct, and i cross referenced with the old engine and a wiring diagram

fuel trims in between 0-2%

got brand new oem ignition coils and plug wires reinstalled which fixed the crazy idling, however the car still has the misfire when sitting at 3750-4000 rpm

travisinthe8

Took car to dirt rally event, car ran great other than the check engine light flashes when i hit 3750-4000 rpm range. But stops and disappears after i keep the throttle down. Not sure whats going on there, but no power loss.

brought the car home, and as soon as i hit my driveway it started idle surging like crazy again.

read codes, misfire cylinder 2, code clears, car runs fine.

super confusing, been 3k ish miles since manual conversion engine has 36,000km all accessories were transferred before engine swap

Loki

iTrader: (1)

Hmmm. Maybe cleaning the eccentric shaft position sensor and resetting the profile would help. Research the 20-time brake stomp procedure. It's exactly what it sounds like, car in ON, press the brake 20 times in 8 seconds until the oil gauge does a sweep. This resets the computer's memorized ESS profile and builds a new one. Could help if the sensor or the engine were changed at some point.

The clean it you need to get under the car, it's mounted next to the dront pulley.

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travisinthe8

car is running factory ecu that came with the car, but has versatuner installed.

the car has been specifially tuned after the swap for the parts ive installed and to run the manual engine off the auto ecu

I hate to be the “now that you mention it guy” but i havent done the 20 brake pedal stomp procedure since the manual swap.

originally i ended up accidentally breaking 2 brake pedal switches and had to order a third LOL. forgot the whole reason i wanted the switch in the first place was to was to do the procedure (also so my brake lights would work)

the original engine was removed from the car

engine replaced with a jdm crate 4 port and 5 speed

swapped every sensor, and accessory i could think of from the automatic block to the manual block, because i knew it all worked and the auto engine ran extremely well before the swap.

turns out i forgot to swap the ESS sensor over

would you reccommend i use the old ESS sensor?

use the current ESS sensor in the engine?

Also what cleaning products should be used on the sensor? MAF cleaner? Or regular electronics cleaner?

travisinthe8

Update:

cleaned maf

cleaned air filter

cleaned ess

new code for vss failure

ripped car apart

replaced all the solenoids

car runs like a charm

Loki

iTrader: (1)

Nice! The VSS might be tricky, the auto trans has a speed sensor but the manual ECU gets speed from the wheel speed sensors. Is the speedo working despite the VSS failure code?

travisinthe8

everything works as intended except traction control/ stability control. But i was told by my tuner i can trick my auto ecu by replacing the auto speed sensor code to the wheel speed sensors code