clbowen1

I have a 2004 RX-8 that was in an accident and the Insurance co decided to replace damaged motor with a Used Motor from same year with 72k miles on it. I asked from compression test and they gave me the following

kg/cm2 @ 275 rpm

Rotor 1
6.7
6.8
7.0

Rotor 2
7.4
7.4
7.2

I told the dealer and Ins company that I would not except the motor, since it was in relative failing condition. The Ins co asked the dealer to try to make the compression better (no idea how) and these number came back

kg/cm @277rpm
Rotor 1
8.2
8.1
7.8

Rotor 2 @ 273rpm
7.6
7.6
7.6

I have seen picture of the readouts, so I don't doubt it was my car, but I have some suspicion that they are fudging the number to show them higher than they actually are. I don't know all the variables, or what they can do to make the compression better, but I feel as if they are trying to sneak one by me. What should I do?

A big Thank you in advance to anyone who can help.

BTW, in Ohio and the altitude at the dealer is 1130 ft above sea level.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Good on not accepting the first number.

The jump to the 2nd set is impossible to be accurate if it's on the same motor without tearing it down for a rebuild.

The test numbers can climb if the engine is colder than before, or if they added oil to the housings for the 2nd test.

If they can't show you that they replaced the engine or rebuilt it, I'd insist on them firing up the engine, getting it hot, and immediately retesting, nothing else done.

clbowen1

Thank you for the prompt response.

I had the same thought, with out it being a new or rebuild (I know they didn't take it apart, they said something about an engine flush?) I couldn't see anyway for the compression to improve.

I'll do exactly what you suggested, I'll drive it out and ask for a new test. As soon as that happens, I'll post the results here.

Again, Thanks, I used the forum in the past for maintaining my car, and this is my first post and the help is priceless.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

If all they did was a decarb, it would NOT provide that much of a jump immediately. I have a set of compression tests pre and post decarb, and then another one 6 weeks later. It dropped immediately after the decarb. Then compression climbed over the six weeks but still landed less than the jump displayed here.

The generally recognized result is that it will drop compression immediately, but allow the seals to properly re-lap back in over time. Low numbers is still worn metal. You can't take a dead engine (with resulting worn metal) and magically make it jump to brand-new-hand-built compression levels. You have to replace that metal somewhere somehow. Those numbers are even over what a new reman usually is.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Also, I'd definitely argue with the dealer on this, not the insurance company. The dealer stands to make more money by doing the right thing, so they will be much easier to convince.

And if the dealer says "no, this engine isn't good" the insurance company has zero ground to stand on to tell them that they are wrong.

clbowen1

That's very good insight. I just want the engine to be in good shape and have it last.

I knew when the numbers climbed dramatically, there was a problem. The Insurance co. just wants this done with (they've spent about $6,000 on it so far) Also, the dealer doesn't even do rebuilds, just replacements, so i'm not confident in anything they tell me. I don't want to imply they did something malicious, but I'm not accepting a failing engine.

The Insurance Co has offered a Lifetime Warranty on the engine (labor too), but that doesn't matter if I have to spend all my time at the shop having used engines put in, my time is worth more than that.

clbowen1

I've argued mostly with the ins co, but the dealer is on my side. However, I'd personally just like to see the Ins Co "Total" the car. I was in the process of selling it when this happened, and now, I think the car will be a hard sell with the replaced motor unless it's a new rebuild.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Yup.

Although, keep in mind that if they DO have a lifetime warranty on the engine AND they fight you on this one. Just wait a week and take it to a different dealer and have them re-test

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Gotcha. Yeah, that changes things a bit. A proven dead motor on an accident damaged car is ... well .. 'worthless' might be putting it too favorably.

Totalling it out would certainly be in your best interests, and at least not make any false expectations for anyone that picks it up from a salvage auction

clbowen1

Again, Thanks, your insight on this has truly helped a lot. I guess the best news is that the Ins Co did agree to fix the motor (the accident what a full force bottoming the car out that damaged the motor) They brought in there "experts" and they confirmed it was accident that caused the engine failure, much to the chagrin of the ins co. so 90% of the damage was the failed motor. I'd just hate to sell it to some kid and then have the motor fail, and like you said, due warning is handed to someone at an ins auction. Hell, It might be a good deal for someone then.

clbowen1

*****UPDATE!********
The dealer made me take the car and I set an appointment with another dealer to do another Compression test.

All numbers in KGF/CM2
Rotor 1 @ 267 rpm

6.9
6.9
6.8

Rotor 2 @ 266 rpm

7.0
6.9
7.0

Dealer confirmed that the engine is no good. Ins company has agreed to make the car a total loss. This is of course after they put over $6,000 into the new motor including parts and labor plus over $2000 in rental car fees. Now that we are in the 9th week of the claim. This has been a serve strain on me, I'm exhausted. Now, will I get a fair price for the car? I guess I'll know tomorrow.....

Thank you to all for the help, it was invaluable.