ECU logging
09-11-2019, 08:32 AM
#1
ECU logging
Hi! Recently I bought a Tactrix Openport 2.0 and right away I started to discover all of its features. The most interesting feature for me is the standalone logging to the SD card. So I plugged an SD card in it and started logging some things and than looked at them but I am not a profesional if it comes to the cars. So is anybody here that is willing to check my logs if everything looks fine? (my car has a decat if it changes something in the data) I want to start learing how to tune a RX8 so that why I bought the openport and now I am thinking of buying versatuner or mazdaedit. But for now... logs are the only thing I can do.
09-14-2019, 03:22 PM
#3
Hey, new member and rx8 owner.
I can't help you with these logs, but i do want to ask about that Tactrix Open port 2.0
What does it allow you to do? I mean, does it only give you data from the car or can you change something on the car with it?
I can't help you with these logs, but i do want to ask about that Tactrix Open port 2.0
What does it allow you to do? I mean, does it only give you data from the car or can you change something on the car with it?
09-15-2019, 04:02 PM
#6
I dont plan it for now, but for the future I will have the tool fr doing it. I plan on taking courses on ECU tuning. Now I just want to log everything 😁 But I know what means what in these values but I dont know if they are all good for rotary.
09-15-2019, 04:14 PM
#7
Registered
I'm not looking at the logs but a couple things to consider with RX-8's.
-Total fuel trimming (STFT + LTFT) shouldn't exceed 10%. It can, and especially in some low load areas of the maps may hit upwards of 20% in the right conditions, but most times should be well under that, especially under load. Exceed fuel trimming can indicate an issue such as a sensor falling out of spec, a dirty or leaking fuel injector, or even a vacuum leak.
-Depending upon altitude (I'll assume sea level), your MAF should read about 5g/s at idle after warmup. At full-song, near readline, you may see up to 180g/s naturally aspirated.
-Depending upon altitude (sea level again), your calculated load should peak about .94-1.04
-Catalyst temperature is a calculated value, not read from an actual sensor. If the calculated value exceed 900c, the car may enter cat protection, which will result in a sharp rise in AFR, toward rich, until the hysteresis value is reached.
-Aggressive ignition timing doesn't gain much on these motors, best to stick with stock unless the ports are significantly modified, or a form of forced induction is in place, which would drive toward more conservative timing. Leave the trailing plug offset as stock.
-Don't mess with fuel injection angle (or most things really) unless you have a dyno to run back-to-back ad compare the result (two-three runs per change when developing, in order to validate). The factory tuning is pretty good for most scenarios, eve bolt ons, since they don't do much to improve airflow anyways. If going to forced induction, you will require tuning, likely a fuel system upgrade, and a bit of dyno time to get it all locked in.
I'd save the money on Versatuner/MazdaEdit until you plan to go with boost. Aside from OMP adjustment (which 2006+ ECM calibrations are fine as stock, especially with pre-mix users), there is little benefit that you'll feel, on the road or on the track. The RX8 calibration is well-sorted from the factory and there is little to gain by tuning a near-stock RX-8.
-Total fuel trimming (STFT + LTFT) shouldn't exceed 10%. It can, and especially in some low load areas of the maps may hit upwards of 20% in the right conditions, but most times should be well under that, especially under load. Exceed fuel trimming can indicate an issue such as a sensor falling out of spec, a dirty or leaking fuel injector, or even a vacuum leak.
-Depending upon altitude (I'll assume sea level), your MAF should read about 5g/s at idle after warmup. At full-song, near readline, you may see up to 180g/s naturally aspirated.
-Depending upon altitude (sea level again), your calculated load should peak about .94-1.04
-Catalyst temperature is a calculated value, not read from an actual sensor. If the calculated value exceed 900c, the car may enter cat protection, which will result in a sharp rise in AFR, toward rich, until the hysteresis value is reached.
-Aggressive ignition timing doesn't gain much on these motors, best to stick with stock unless the ports are significantly modified, or a form of forced induction is in place, which would drive toward more conservative timing. Leave the trailing plug offset as stock.
-Don't mess with fuel injection angle (or most things really) unless you have a dyno to run back-to-back ad compare the result (two-three runs per change when developing, in order to validate). The factory tuning is pretty good for most scenarios, eve bolt ons, since they don't do much to improve airflow anyways. If going to forced induction, you will require tuning, likely a fuel system upgrade, and a bit of dyno time to get it all locked in.
I'd save the money on Versatuner/MazdaEdit until you plan to go with boost. Aside from OMP adjustment (which 2006+ ECM calibrations are fine as stock, especially with pre-mix users), there is little benefit that you'll feel, on the road or on the track. The RX8 calibration is well-sorted from the factory and there is little to gain by tuning a near-stock RX-8.
Last edited by furansu; 09-15-2019 at 04:17 PM.
The following users liked this post:
JoyBed (09-16-2019)
09-16-2019, 01:55 AM
#8
-Total fuel trimming (STFT + LTFT) shouldn't exceed 10%. It can, and especially in some low load areas of the maps may hit upwards of 20% in the right conditions, but most times should be well under that, especially under load. Exceed fuel trimming can indicate an issue such as a sensor falling out of spec, a dirty or leaking fuel injector, or even a vacuum leak.
-Depending upon altitude (I'll assume sea level), your MAF should read about 5g/s at idle after warmup. At full-song, near readline, you may see up to 180g/s naturally aspirated.
-Depending upon altitude (sea level again), your calculated load should peak about .94-1.04
-Catalyst temperature is a calculated value, not read from an actual sensor. If the calculated value exceed 900c, the car may enter cat protection, which will result in a sharp rise in AFR, toward rich, until the hysteresis value is reached.
-Aggressive ignition timing doesn't gain much on these motors, best to stick with stock unless the ports are significantly modified, or a form of forced induction is in place, which would drive toward more conservative timing. Leave the trailing plug offset as stock.
-Don't mess with fuel injection angle (or most things really) unless you have a dyno to run back-to-back ad compare the result (two-three runs per change when developing, in order to validate). The factory tuning is pretty good for most scenarios, eve bolt ons, since they don't do much to improve airflow anyways. If going to forced induction, you will require tuning, likely a fuel system upgrade, and a bit of dyno time to get it all locked in.
-Depending upon altitude (I'll assume sea level), your MAF should read about 5g/s at idle after warmup. At full-song, near readline, you may see up to 180g/s naturally aspirated.
-Depending upon altitude (sea level again), your calculated load should peak about .94-1.04
-Catalyst temperature is a calculated value, not read from an actual sensor. If the calculated value exceed 900c, the car may enter cat protection, which will result in a sharp rise in AFR, toward rich, until the hysteresis value is reached.
-Aggressive ignition timing doesn't gain much on these motors, best to stick with stock unless the ports are significantly modified, or a form of forced induction is in place, which would drive toward more conservative timing. Leave the trailing plug offset as stock.
-Don't mess with fuel injection angle (or most things really) unless you have a dyno to run back-to-back ad compare the result (two-three runs per change when developing, in order to validate). The factory tuning is pretty good for most scenarios, eve bolt ons, since they don't do much to improve airflow anyways. If going to forced induction, you will require tuning, likely a fuel system upgrade, and a bit of dyno time to get it all locked in.
09-17-2019, 08:44 AM
#9
Registered
You'll need MazdaEdit licensed to your VIN or a MazdaEdit tuner to make any changes to the dwell tables.
You can run D585's with the OEM dwell settings as the Mazda coils run a shorter dwell versus the longer dwell rating of the GM coils. This is safe, but the output spark may be weaker than is possible as a result, which is why many non-tuned D585 users note startup taking a smidgen longer.
I personally recommend Mazda 'C' coils for a stock car. The D585 setup is fine, but it is chasing an issue that I consider resolved by Mazda with the C coils. Coils do age and weaken, which is why replacement every 30-60k miles is a good idea for a performance car, even if using D585's.
You can run D585's with the OEM dwell settings as the Mazda coils run a shorter dwell versus the longer dwell rating of the GM coils. This is safe, but the output spark may be weaker than is possible as a result, which is why many non-tuned D585 users note startup taking a smidgen longer.
I personally recommend Mazda 'C' coils for a stock car. The D585 setup is fine, but it is chasing an issue that I consider resolved by Mazda with the C coils. Coils do age and weaken, which is why replacement every 30-60k miles is a good idea for a performance car, even if using D585's.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
punishr
Series I Aftermarket Performance Modifications
16
07-07-2004 03:11 AM