Renesize

Hi
I apologize for a new thread, i am lost around here, new member and i hope i can get some help from any of you. So..long story as short as possible:
Start the car, warming up, hit the road slowly, about 1 km until i reach the motorway, then i usually red line the engine in 2nd, 3rd..etc. Every time i do that, but only happend on the first red line between 5-6000 rpm, the car seems to loose the power for a couple of secs. i got use to it, untill today, when after going the first red line, the car just lost all the power, for about 10 seconds i couldnt pass 4000 rpm, and the engine stopped.
Didnt start again after many cranks, fuel pump is working-i got fuel pressure when i disconected the fuel line near the engine.
What the hack is going on with my princess?(i got new ignition coils and battery fyi and i know for sure that my oil control rings are worn because i have changed by my self the water seals 3 months ago and i saw them, but i didnt have that time new ones to replace).I believe it can be some electric/electronic or ignition failure, but where to start?

BigCajun

iTrader: (1)

Welcome.
Well, you can start by doing a methodical troubleshooting process as prescribed by the service manual.

You can get an OBD scan to check for codes.
There are some other things you can try that are common problems, like taking the air filter box off to see if the intake is getting oil in it, then cleaning the ESS & MAF sensor.

You can check your coils to see if they're firing.

Renesize

so..i have a new set of ignition coils installed, maf and ess checked and cleaned, fuel pump is more than alive, sparks removed and brushed, my stupid elm obd scanner shows no faults, maybe coz the engine isnt running(?). After a half day in 40 celsius i really hate to crank another 10 times with no starting at all, even a small sign. I really try to avoid the mechanics around, they asked me for water seals replacement maybe 75% the price of a new engine, and about 2 weeks to do it.

BigCajun

iTrader: (1)

You should get a compression test to rule that out, no sense replacing parts on a dead engine.
You brushed your plugs?
If you didn't use a nylon brush and gentle scrubbing, they can be damaged.
Are you sure they're the right ones?

Check to see if your battery terminals are clean and tight, don't check the bolts at first, see if you can move them with your hands.
They stretch over time and the bolt can be fully tightened yet still be loose.
Check to see if your grounds are good and not corroded.

Renesize

the battery its tight well, and i had it charged today, grounds are cleaned. I am just wondering, the harness which is connected to the coils, where is it coming from? is it from the ecu? If it was an engine failure, i believe the car will have hard time starting, or power lose while driving, but will still start at least one more time, even very difficult(sorry for my english, its not my native language).

BigCajun

iTrader: (1)

A Renesis engine with bad compression can run, but as it gets hot can lose compression.
Did you have any problems before this starting it after the engine was warmed up (hot start problems)?
That is a sign of a failing engine.

ZiG

Also, just because you get a spurt of fuel at the manifold does not mean the fuel pump is working to its proper pressure and flow rate, and not overheating after a few minutes of running.

Loki

iTrader: (1)

So wait, you did your own engine rebuild with only replacing the coolant seals? How can you tell an oil control ring is bad by looking at it? You're asking pretty basic questions about how the codes work, so I'm a bit skeptical that your rebuild was reliable.

A sudden stop like that is often a sudden apex seal failure (thinking back your rebuild once again) or fuel pump failure. You're convinced it's not the fuel pump, so I would try to examine the apex seals through the spark plug holes. Turn over the engine with the starter or (more reliable) slowly by hand. You should be able to spot if one is missing or if it's pieces have left marks on the rotor. A compression test would obviously prove or disprove this type of failure.

Was there oil on the spark plugs when you pulled them out?

I don't think it's ignition failure because while you might lose a coil, it's unlikely you would lose all coils at the same moment.. And there is no common ignitor or anything like that. Your 5-6k rpm hesitation may have something to do with the SSV, which opens in that range. See if you can spin it by hand, it often gets clogged up. Doesn't explain the no start condition though.

Renesize

Yes Loki, i saw the o-rings, they were all out because i removed everything and every single piece of the rotors out, for a visual inspection and cleaning. When i bought the car i was expecting the worse, and i knew the car was not well, thats why i open the engine in the first week i got it. Its true, i am not an expert in rotary as many of this forum members and i am missing some basic infos, and all the work i did was what i have seen on videos and reading whatever i could learn from here. I am just waiting for a slag in my job, so i can rebuild it again.
And about my starting issue, last night i decided to give it one more try and i crank maybe 10 times with the gas on the floor, like 10 sec each time. After that i removed the battery, charged it full again, and crank again, just this time for each crank i release the gas pedal gradually and it almost start, when my bloody old neighbors woke up. I will try again tomorrow. Thank you for helping me

Loki

iTrader: (1)

If you crank with gas to the floor, no fuel enters the engine. It's the right thing to do if the engine is flooded. When you start to release, the gas, you get fuel. You might try starting it normally, but if not, keep trying that method, you might have a flood condition from trying to start it before.

But that doesn't explain why it stopped in the first place. If it was a sensor failure or misfire you would expect a check engine light. I'm still thinking it's something mechanical.

The bottom line is you need to make sure you have fuel, air and spark. You can check for spark with an inductive tester (leading only, trailing don't fire when cranking).

Renesize

So, after busy days i got a slag from my job, and today i decided to have a look inside the catalytic converter. I wonder how the car was running till now anyway, i think it still has some charcoal pieces inside the muffler. I cleaned all, just with a long socket extension and now i have it empty back on the car. This was the last chance i gave to the car to start, before rebuild, but it didnt start properly, its just a pathetic single rotor firing noise and dying easy. The great rebuild will come as soon as i get some days off, and i will post here pictures with whatever i will find broken inside the engine.
In the attachment you can see how was my cat . Thank you all for your help.

Renesize

When the rx8`s fail to start, be ready for this.

yomomspimp06

lions and tigers and bears

Legot

iTrader: (1)

Holy ****.