Engine cuts off after reaching warm up temp
#1
Engine cuts off after reaching warm up temp
So let me start by trying to give you all a little history about my 2004 RX8. I purchased the car used from a private owner who bought it at an auction intending to fix it and never did. He told me it needed an engine rebuild. I had the engine completely rebuilt. In addition to the rebuild I installed new ignition coils, wires, plugs, position sensor, battery, starter. I actually have a couple issues. I've tried cranking the engine but it would not start. Now since it's a fresh rebuild I squirted some oil into the cylinders to fire off the engine and it starts right up. I kept the idle at about 3,000 rpm's and held it there. What happens is usually within 3-5 minutes of running the engine at 3000 rpms it will suddenly just shut right down. No sputtering or misfiring. Just shuts off as if you turned the ignition key to the off position. It has done this to me about 5-6 times now. I've noticed that once the engine shuts down the electric cooling fans kick on. (not sure if that's related or not). I thought it might be the fuel pump going bad so I've replaced it but still have the same issue. I have a CEL but its reading code P0130 which I know is an oxygen sensor issue but I don't think this would cause the shutdown. I'd appreciate any ideas/advice from anyone on this issue.
The following 2 users liked this post by Brettus:
9krpmrx8 (02-12-2018),
Steve Dallas (03-04-2018)
#5
No luck. The injectors were wired correctly. I double checked the coils/plugs and they are in the correct order also. Just to mention I have the standard power rx8 so only 2 primary injectors and 2 secondary injectors. As I mentioned initially one of the strange things that I've noticed is that as soon as the car shuts down the electric fans kick on.
#8
40th anniversary Edition
Starting the Engine
• Starter
• Battery
• Engine Compression
• Grounding Wires
• Ignition Coils
• Spark Plugs
• Spark Plug Wires
• Fuel Pump
• Fuel Injectors
Keeping the Engine at a Cruise
• Ignition Coils
• Spark Plugs
• Spark Plug Wires
• Engine Compression
• E-Shaft Sensor (ESS)
• Intake Valving
• Throttle Body
• Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF)
• Fuel Pump
• Fuel Injectors
• Front O2 sensor
• Catalytic Converter (Cat)
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tro...t-here-222584/
• Starter
• Battery
• Engine Compression
• Grounding Wires
• Ignition Coils
• Spark Plugs
• Spark Plug Wires
• Fuel Pump
• Fuel Injectors
Keeping the Engine at a Cruise
• Ignition Coils
• Spark Plugs
• Spark Plug Wires
• Engine Compression
• E-Shaft Sensor (ESS)
• Intake Valving
• Throttle Body
• Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF)
• Fuel Pump
• Fuel Injectors
• Front O2 sensor
• Catalytic Converter (Cat)
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tro...t-here-222584/
Last edited by gwilliams6; 02-22-2018 at 08:51 PM.
#9
So the latest thing is that the only way I can get my car to start is to spray a few pumps of oil into the cylinders in order to start the engine. It will run for a few minutes and then suddenly cut off. Cannot restart it once it cuts off. Only way to restart it is to once again put a couple sprays of oil into the cylinders and crank the engine over. Any ideas on whats going on?
#11
The rebuild was done by a reputable, local shop. I feel that if I could get the engine to run for longer than just a few minutes then maybe all the seals would "seat". I also feel that if it were a compression issue then either it would not start at all or would just run poorly but not cut offl after just a few minutes. Or maybe I'm completely wrong. Needless to say it's been very challenging.
#12
What am I doing here?
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First: rotaries don't have cylinders. How did you introduce the oil to the rotors?
Second: The engine dying at idle while warm often means you don't have good compression.
Third: adding oil to make it work often means you don't have good compression.
Fourth: Rotary compression is lower when at normal operating temperature. This is why rotaries may start fine cold but die when warm.
Fifth: Your car needs a compression test. Run it until it stalls and then test it immediately.
Sixth: Sadly, your feelings have little bearing on the facts of the situation. Even my craptacular rebuild started and ran normally, hot or cold, despite having failing compression.
Second: The engine dying at idle while warm often means you don't have good compression.
Third: adding oil to make it work often means you don't have good compression.
Fourth: Rotary compression is lower when at normal operating temperature. This is why rotaries may start fine cold but die when warm.
Fifth: Your car needs a compression test. Run it until it stalls and then test it immediately.
Sixth: Sadly, your feelings have little bearing on the facts of the situation. Even my craptacular rebuild started and ran normally, hot or cold, despite having failing compression.
#13
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Bringing back an oldish thread, but I'm having EXACTLY the same issue with my rebuild. Needs extra oil to start it up and then dies after warming up with the cooling fans kicking on afterwards. Was there a solution to this issue? I don't feel that my engine has been able to set the seals since it only stays running for a few minutes and then cools down again.
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200.mph (12-26-2018)
#15
#16
FULLY SEMI AUTOMATIC
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Dudes, I have the same problem and I went to a Rotary expert and he wanted to tell me after putting a new(used racing rotary engine from Japan 4 years ago) engine that I am going to need a rebuild ($4800 BS). I saw this video on YouTube https://youtu.be/mioicFztkHU and guess what it works. I have a heavy foot and always trying to redline the car. If you do this procedure after disconnecting and then reconnecting the battery this should work. I have a 2004 (bought 14 years ago) one and only and I depend on my car. Try and it and let me know how it works out for you (good luck)!
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gwilliams6 (12-27-2018)
#18
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The car is now at the shop where the engine was rebuilt. As he knows more about these kinds of engines, he should be able to figure out what's going on with it shutting down once at running temperature. I'll respond back in a few days or weeks with the results of the issue it had so we can all learn from this.
#19
Freeport, Long Island Blue 2004 Rx8
The car is now at the shop where the engine was rebuilt. As he knows more about these kinds of engines, he should be able to figure out what's going on with it shutting down once at running temperature. I'll respond back in a few days or weeks with the results of the issue it had so we can all learn from this.
#20
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you stated you got a new used engine, which is it? what is a japan racing engine? yes its extremely possible 4yrs on a used engine needs a rebuild. why wouldnt any renny match up well with a stock exhaust? makes no sense. sounds to me you are the one who needs to do some research
#21
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Yea I don't understand either why the stock exhaust wouldn't match up. It's stock...
#22
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must be because we didnt do your research plus its a new/used jap racing engine lol. guess almost 11yrs on this forum, being an owner and having worked on about two dozen members cars doesnt make me smart enough to understand
#23
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So I finally got the car back from the shop (3.5 months). It would seem that the main reason the car would shut down was due to some knockoff LS2 coils that I bought from a site that sold them as genuine. Wish I could remember where and how much I paid for them. That was a few years ago though. So it also had some grounding issues and the TPS drive by wire wasn't working correctly. I just need to throw in a new battery and I should be good to go for the break in process. The one I brought with me, that I took out of my winter daily driver, didn't have enough cranking amps to turn over the 8.
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