Engine cutting out when idling
10-14-2016, 06:22 AM
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Engine cutting out when idling
Hi All,
I feel a bit guilty for signing up just because I have an issue but I have been searching the forum for a while and can't find a way to solve my issue.
I have a 2006 RX8 PX.
The engine was rebuilt 23,000 miles ago
I normally use the 2 cycle TCW premix however was recently recommended 'normal' 2 cycle old by a friend and have put a very small (200ml) in with the current full tank to see if this has the same performance.
I have recently (3 weeks ago) changed the spark plugs and checked the coils.
2 weeks ago I changed the starter motor for an up-rated 14 tooth version.
The post cat lambda sensor was changed a few weeks ago also.
The engine warning light came on whilst driving to work and was intermittently on and of or flashing for the rest of the journey (40 miles).
For the final part of the journey (1km) it started cutting out when idling (junctions and roundabouts) and now it will fire up and run but then there is an audible click and it runs very rough or cuts out completely. If it gets to the point where it clicks again it runs better before doing the same thing again.
I have taken off the MAF sensor and spreyed some contact cleaner in it and this doesn't seem to have done anything.
It seems like the 'clicking' (which sounds like a solenoid) might be the issue but I am no expert and need to drive the car home
Could the premix cause this issue? I'm no mechanic and done all the work myself so I could quite easily have messed it up myself..
Any help would be very much appreciated and I promise to post a picture of my (normally awesome) car and become an active member of the community
I feel a bit guilty for signing up just because I have an issue but I have been searching the forum for a while and can't find a way to solve my issue.
I have a 2006 RX8 PX.
The engine was rebuilt 23,000 miles ago
I normally use the 2 cycle TCW premix however was recently recommended 'normal' 2 cycle old by a friend and have put a very small (200ml) in with the current full tank to see if this has the same performance.
I have recently (3 weeks ago) changed the spark plugs and checked the coils.
2 weeks ago I changed the starter motor for an up-rated 14 tooth version.
The post cat lambda sensor was changed a few weeks ago also.
The engine warning light came on whilst driving to work and was intermittently on and of or flashing for the rest of the journey (40 miles).
For the final part of the journey (1km) it started cutting out when idling (junctions and roundabouts) and now it will fire up and run but then there is an audible click and it runs very rough or cuts out completely. If it gets to the point where it clicks again it runs better before doing the same thing again.
I have taken off the MAF sensor and spreyed some contact cleaner in it and this doesn't seem to have done anything.
It seems like the 'clicking' (which sounds like a solenoid) might be the issue but I am no expert and need to drive the car home
Could the premix cause this issue? I'm no mechanic and done all the work myself so I could quite easily have messed it up myself..
Any help would be very much appreciated and I promise to post a picture of my (normally awesome) car and become an active member of the community
10-14-2016, 07:29 AM
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Does the power cut off as well? Do you ever have any hot or warm start problems? Changing to a different premix shoulnd't affect how your car is running other than to improve it. From my experience.
10-14-2016, 08:21 AM
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The power stays on. I don't have any cold/hot start issues but it has been running a bit rough lately. I made an assumption that this was a fuel mix issue as the lambda sensor needed replacing but that didn't seem to make much difference.
With regards to the lambda sensor, the engine light came on, I checked the code which revealed it was the sensor, the sensor was replaced and the light went off and didn't come back on.
Is it possible that the sensor being out may have caused other issues?
With regards to the lambda sensor, the engine light came on, I checked the code which revealed it was the sensor, the sensor was replaced and the light went off and didn't come back on.
Is it possible that the sensor being out may have caused other issues?
10-14-2016, 08:44 AM
#4
How did you check the coils? There is a proper test with a multimeter and there is a old wives' tale about white marks
Are the leads on the coils all snug? The click could be arcing over a loose coil wire connection. Flashing CEL is a misfire. Is there a permanent CEL now as well? If so what is it?
Not sure what you mean by "normal" 2 cycle oil. The stuff you want is JASO FD rated, not TCW. You certainly don't want chainsaw oil in there.
Are the leads on the coils all snug? The click could be arcing over a loose coil wire connection. Flashing CEL is a misfire. Is there a permanent CEL now as well? If so what is it?
Not sure what you mean by "normal" 2 cycle oil. The stuff you want is JASO FD rated, not TCW. You certainly don't want chainsaw oil in there.
Last edited by Loki; 10-14-2016 at 08:47 AM.
10-15-2016, 09:50 AM
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Looks like it is misfireing. I'm sure the airflow errors are just coming up as the air box hasn't been put back as I cleaned the throttle body before reading the codes.
As they are new plugs should I just assume it is the coils?
Fault log report generated by Torque for Android
=================================================
Vehicle VIN: JMZSE173600142047
Vehicle Manufacturer: Mazda
Vehicle Calibration ID: N3J1EM00013H6F10
Current Fault Log
------------------
P0300: Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0102: Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Low Input
P0113: Intake Air Temperature Circuit High Input
P0103: Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit High Input
Pending Fault Log
------------------
P0301: Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected
Historic Fault Log
------------------
ECU reports no historic faults
Other discovered fault codes
(possibly pending, current or manufacturer specific)
----------------------------------------------------
ECU reports no other fault codes logged
End of report.
As they are new plugs should I just assume it is the coils?
Fault log report generated by Torque for Android
=================================================
Vehicle VIN: JMZSE173600142047
Vehicle Manufacturer: Mazda
Vehicle Calibration ID: N3J1EM00013H6F10
Current Fault Log
------------------
P0300: Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0102: Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Low Input
P0113: Intake Air Temperature Circuit High Input
P0103: Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit High Input
Pending Fault Log
------------------
P0301: Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected
Historic Fault Log
------------------
ECU reports no historic faults
Other discovered fault codes
(possibly pending, current or manufacturer specific)
----------------------------------------------------
ECU reports no other fault codes logged
End of report.
10-16-2016, 08:31 PM
#8
3 of your codes point to the MAF. I would start with that, the connection, and look at it. If you stick the straw in the hole you can damage the sensor wires.
Also, if the tank is low, fill it and keep if full. You could be losing a fuel pump.
Coils are an option as well, but the errors you are getting are not coil errors. Sort what is wrong first.
Also, if the tank is low, fill it and keep if full. You could be losing a fuel pump.
Coils are an option as well, but the errors you are getting are not coil errors. Sort what is wrong first.
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