Engine doesn't rev while in gear
11-10-2021, 10:51 PM
#1
New Member
Thread Starter
Engine doesn't rev while in gear - FIXED
Disclaimer: I only read about half of the faq (I did that before posting). I have to get back after this in the morning, so I figured if there's a known answer, maybe someone would be nice -
Q: does this car have a safety feature (for after collision) which would cause high rpms while in gear while cold, but prevent revving or shifting? I backed it up to a garage, but it couldn't get over the 1" lip to the concrete slab without a moving start?!? Even though the revs were high and it was in first, there was no power, and depressing the accelerator caused no change.
New-to-me 07 Auto, salvage purchase. No manual. Hit on rf, fender crumpled, headlight, bumper cover, small radiator on the bottom on that side is damaged but no leaks, bumper bent just a little sideways.
Got it with a completely dead battery, which did recover after charging. Remote works the locks.
. Starts easily, moves in first and reverse. CEL, but I haven't yet checked it.
. The last day has been a blur with pickup, transport, and getting it off the trailer.
. There's a rubbing noise in the drivetrain (but not near the impact area) which isn't harsh. I can easily push it on the level in neutral.
. But there was no engine control using the accelerator pedal.
. I'm just hoping this is a security feature for after (for example) a collision or a dead battery, and I'll just have to do a "close door, remote lock & unlock, open door; repeat 5 times" kind of thing to reset the security system.
. Any first impressions? I'll have tools and time by the weekend, but first I'll need to move it again tomorrow.
. Thanks for any help you might offer.
Q: does this car have a safety feature (for after collision) which would cause high rpms while in gear while cold, but prevent revving or shifting? I backed it up to a garage, but it couldn't get over the 1" lip to the concrete slab without a moving start?!? Even though the revs were high and it was in first, there was no power, and depressing the accelerator caused no change.
New-to-me 07 Auto, salvage purchase. No manual. Hit on rf, fender crumpled, headlight, bumper cover, small radiator on the bottom on that side is damaged but no leaks, bumper bent just a little sideways.
Got it with a completely dead battery, which did recover after charging. Remote works the locks.
. Starts easily, moves in first and reverse. CEL, but I haven't yet checked it.
. The last day has been a blur with pickup, transport, and getting it off the trailer.
. There's a rubbing noise in the drivetrain (but not near the impact area) which isn't harsh. I can easily push it on the level in neutral.
. But there was no engine control using the accelerator pedal.
. I'm just hoping this is a security feature for after (for example) a collision or a dead battery, and I'll just have to do a "close door, remote lock & unlock, open door; repeat 5 times" kind of thing to reset the security system.
. Any first impressions? I'll have tools and time by the weekend, but first I'll need to move it again tomorrow.
. Thanks for any help you might offer.
Last edited by Z00mRX; 11-14-2021 at 12:30 AM. Reason: Resolved
11-11-2021, 05:23 AM
#2
Are the airbags deployed?
Really need to check engine codes first, almost useless asking what is going on without these (no offense, just being honest)
When was the ECU reset last? (power disconnected from the car for 1-2 hours)
Have you checked fluid levels?
Grinding noise also there when you are in neutral pushing the car?
Really need to check engine codes first, almost useless asking what is going on without these (no offense, just being honest)
When was the ECU reset last? (power disconnected from the car for 1-2 hours)
Have you checked fluid levels?
Grinding noise also there when you are in neutral pushing the car?
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Z00mRX (11-11-2021)
11-11-2021, 07:10 AM
#3
New Member
Thread Starter
No airbag deployment - I posted before checking to include that, good question.
. Yes, engine codes, agreed it comes first.
. From your response I'm now assuming no special security system effects, which is what I was asking - thanks!
. Question came from a background of experiencing 'security system effects' with a LR Disco I, and a GM 6.5TDi pickup, that stumped a mechanic for an expensive while; both of which were easily resolved if known.
. Didn't notice noise while pushing it, but it didn't move far or fast, and there was a lot of road noise nearby.
. I'll update this thread with what I find. Thanks again.
. Yes, engine codes, agreed it comes first.
. From your response I'm now assuming no special security system effects, which is what I was asking - thanks!
. Question came from a background of experiencing 'security system effects' with a LR Disco I, and a GM 6.5TDi pickup, that stumped a mechanic for an expensive while; both of which were easily resolved if known.
. Didn't notice noise while pushing it, but it didn't move far or fast, and there was a lot of road noise nearby.
. I'll update this thread with what I find. Thanks again.
11-11-2021, 08:54 AM
#4
When you say the rpms are high, how high? I would think that being an auto, the trans might be out of fluid so the torque converter is spinning free.
If the gas pedal isn't controlling the engine then you should see codes for the drive by wire system. Those should be a clue.
If the gas pedal isn't controlling the engine then you should see codes for the drive by wire system. Those should be a clue.
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Z00mRX (11-11-2021)
11-11-2021, 10:42 AM
#5
New Member
Thread Starter
Moves in first and reverse, and easily. Idle about 2,500. Drive by wire explains the different accel. pedal feel.
. I rolled it off the trailer, then pushed it to a place I could hook up jumper cables to another vehicle - dual battery diesel truck - I hooked it up in parallel for a good hour, then started it and let it run for a while still connected so I didn't kill the alternator.
. In park, I think I remember the pedal did have effect; no warning lights other than CEL, temp and oil ok; that was at the end of a very long day+, so my memory isn't clear. The first post is after I got back to where I dropped it real quick, but needed to move it into the garage. Today I'll have tools and a reader (if I can find it) - I changed my schedule.
. Your note about tranny fluid is interesting - revs high, moves along quickly in first, and yet no real power behind it. Interesting.
Lots to check. I'll post again later today.
. I rolled it off the trailer, then pushed it to a place I could hook up jumper cables to another vehicle - dual battery diesel truck - I hooked it up in parallel for a good hour, then started it and let it run for a while still connected so I didn't kill the alternator.
. In park, I think I remember the pedal did have effect; no warning lights other than CEL, temp and oil ok; that was at the end of a very long day+, so my memory isn't clear. The first post is after I got back to where I dropped it real quick, but needed to move it into the garage. Today I'll have tools and a reader (if I can find it) - I changed my schedule.
. Your note about tranny fluid is interesting - revs high, moves along quickly in first, and yet no real power behind it. Interesting.
Lots to check. I'll post again later today.
11-11-2021, 10:50 AM
#7
FULLY SEMI AUTOMATIC
iTrader: (9)
11-11-2021, 11:00 AM
#8
New Member
Thread Starter
Yes, thanks. I promise I'll find the link to the shop manual when I get back tonight and look at it before asking any more questions. I enjoy reading the friendly manual.
11-11-2021, 01:35 PM
#9
It's a rotary so depending on what you're used to, there's not much power under 4k. That often surprises folks who expect the car to climb hills at 2500rpm.
Right front is where the ECU is so if it got jostled you may want to go over the wiring and connectors to the electronic throttle, OMP and other stuff. Speaking of which if the OMP is damaged, the engine will go into limp mode and not rev over 3k. This limp mode is documented on the forum.
Beyond that lets get some OBD codes and make sure you read rx8help.com for general orientation about things to watch for on a healthy RX8.
Right front is where the ECU is so if it got jostled you may want to go over the wiring and connectors to the electronic throttle, OMP and other stuff. Speaking of which if the OMP is damaged, the engine will go into limp mode and not rev over 3k. This limp mode is documented on the forum.
Beyond that lets get some OBD codes and make sure you read rx8help.com for general orientation about things to watch for on a healthy RX8.
11-11-2021, 08:43 PM
#10
New Member
Thread Starter
P2106
Throttle Actuator Control System Forced Limited Power
This makes perfect sense.
. Oil is at the lowest dot on the dipstick, but above min. Oil is fairly clean. Coolant is below cold min. in the overflow reservoir, but visible, so I didn't run it long, or try to drive it around. I'll do that after I get coolant.
I cleared the code. It started easily, and idles as expected when cold, over 1,000 rpm. Throttle works when it's in park; I blipped it up to about 3,500 (just for a moment). I only ran it for about two minutes. It's nice and quiet.
I'll update after the weekend, when I know more.
BTW, I had a rotary ~44 years ago; and yes, there was almost no torque then, either.
Throttle Actuator Control System Forced Limited Power
This makes perfect sense.
. Oil is at the lowest dot on the dipstick, but above min. Oil is fairly clean. Coolant is below cold min. in the overflow reservoir, but visible, so I didn't run it long, or try to drive it around. I'll do that after I get coolant.
I cleared the code. It started easily, and idles as expected when cold, over 1,000 rpm. Throttle works when it's in park; I blipped it up to about 3,500 (just for a moment). I only ran it for about two minutes. It's nice and quiet.
I'll update after the weekend, when I know more.
BTW, I had a rotary ~44 years ago; and yes, there was almost no torque then, either.
11-12-2021, 07:13 PM
#11
New Member
Thread Starter
Back at it early:
. I added coolant up to the "Low" level. It started and ran easily in park with no CEL, and the throttle works. I checked underneath, no leaks, so I put it in gear and drove it, and the throttle works well now. I drove it about 3 miles in a parking area; coolant came up to temp, gauges worked well.
Parked it, no leaks. It has about 85k on it, and I'm liking it more and more. It had been inspected in August.
[edit]: The rubbing noise is in the drivetrain in the rear on the right side (I'm including the tire). The rotors cleaned up nicely, but I still hear a noise; I'm hoping it'll clear up by itself, but I'll have it in the air in a couple of days to check it out. Can't tell how it was towed after the collision but before I got it.
. I've got another donor 8 for the body work, just a different color. This'll be on the road with a rebuilt title asap. Thanks for your help!
. I added coolant up to the "Low" level. It started and ran easily in park with no CEL, and the throttle works. I checked underneath, no leaks, so I put it in gear and drove it, and the throttle works well now. I drove it about 3 miles in a parking area; coolant came up to temp, gauges worked well.
Parked it, no leaks. It has about 85k on it, and I'm liking it more and more. It had been inspected in August.
[edit]: The rubbing noise is in the drivetrain in the rear on the right side (I'm including the tire). The rotors cleaned up nicely, but I still hear a noise; I'm hoping it'll clear up by itself, but I'll have it in the air in a couple of days to check it out. Can't tell how it was towed after the collision but before I got it.
. I've got another donor 8 for the body work, just a different color. This'll be on the road with a rebuilt title asap. Thanks for your help!
Last edited by Z00mRX; 11-12-2021 at 07:23 PM.
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