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I finished installing the engine in the car. Reset e-sensor
I know its gotta learn idle again. But the issue is it dies.
It shut off on me a few times while it warming up i did get a code for e-sensor swapped it out. Spark plugs were clean still.
I don't get codes anymore. But i did have something strange happen. Obd2 reader said it cant connect to pcm, it still started
but it also goes away. Still no codes. This is the only thing that seems off.
Could i be missing a ground somewhere? I don't believe i missed on(LIM, under UIM, negative battery)
is this part of the learning, I don't think it should die.
So far I've been finding posts where its a compression issue, but the car starts up quick when it got warm.
Sounds like you missed or misrouted a vacuum hose somewhere. Use your OBD to read the measured airflow if it can hold steady warm idle for a second or two. You should be around 5g/sec. If you're measuring below that, air is getting in elsewhere.
Go back over all the vacuum, fuel and ignition wires and make sure everything is correctly connected. It's easy to mess up soark plug wire order or injector connections between primary and secondary, creating these types of problems.
The not being able to connect to ECU thing is weird but the car is running so the ECU is still working. Maybe just the OBD plug is loose.
Sounds like you missed or misrouted a vacuum hose somewhere. Use your OBD to read the measured airflow if it can hold steady warm idle for a second or two. You should be around 5g/sec. If you're measuring below that, air is getting in elsewhere.
Go back over all the vacuum, fuel and ignition wires and make sure everything is correctly connected. It's easy to mess up soark plug wire order or injector connections between primary and secondary, creating these types of problems.
The not being able to connect to ECU thing is weird but the car is running so the ECU is still working. Maybe just the OBD plug is loose.
damn i had the engine on a stand checking it over making sure i had it all routed correctly. Ill double check.
Ill clean the air sensor as well. it was sitting my garage for a while.
plug wires are good
i guess i gotta use a different obd2 since the one im using doesnt tell me about airflow
I get no codes buut the engine light blinks about 8 times with the key in the on position
Make sure your MAF has the O-ring. My idle on two different engines would do weird flutters, sometimes a stall, after a full reset. Never figured it out on the old one, but after the new one started doing it too, that's when I finally figured out my MAF was missing that O-ring. I'm sure there were other factors too, but my fuel trims are back to normal for cruising. LTFT is still high at idle though, but I've given up on fixing that one.
The maf checks out o ring was fine, still rubbery and round.
Going back to simple terms air fuel spark.
Spark-Its got new plugs and wires have less than 2k miles
Its got rev C coils(based on part number)but dont know how long theyve been used coils breaking up could shut it off, but shouldnt i get a code?
Fuel- ill install my guage to monitor but it has new pump prior to engine install. I believe injectors are wired up correctly i think itd be obviousouse if they werent. Fuel cut would make sense for it to shut off
Air- its getting air, but maybe its got a leak.that should just raise the idle shouldnt it? I dont know why it would shut off. I know in my FD it did this similar idle hunt but it was due to throttle body stuck open. However my fd didnt shut off on me.
i have held the rpms at 1.5k but still fluctuates
My simple obd2 reader has short term fuel bank only and that fluctuated from -20% to 20% if this information is relevant
Short term trim flopping around is normal but all the way to + and -20 is a bit extreme. RX7 experience isn't going to be super relevant here unfortunately, totally different control scheme.
Have you done the NVRAM reset?
What reader do you have? If it can get short term trim, it should be able to get any other metric.
It's jumping up because the computer is trying to prevent it from stalling and then stabilizing the idle, which goes into a cycle.
So air leaks are usually the easiest to detect and eliminate. After that injector wiring ( I know you checked it, but dirty yellow and dirty beige wiring labels look mighty similar). After that we're into needing more information.
Maybe try cleaning the ESP sensor located beside the crank pulley? I did that once and soaked both connectors and that general area with MAF cleaner and that solved similar symptoms you are having.
Maybe try cleaning the ESP sensor located beside the crank pulley? I did that once and soaked both connectors and that general area with MAF cleaner and that solved similar symptoms you are having.
i swapped it out with 2 othwr ones, but maybe the connector is dirty itself.
Short term trim flopping around is normal but all the way to + and -20 is a bit extreme. RX7 experience isn't going to be super relevant here unfortunately, totally different control scheme.
Have you done the NVRAM reset?
What reader do you have? If it can get short term trim, it should be able to get any other metric.
It's jumping up because the computer is trying to prevent it from stalling and then stabilizing the idle, which goes into a cycle.
So air leaks are usually the easiest to detect and eliminate. After that injector wiring ( I know you checked it, but dirty yellow and dirty beige wiring labels look mighty similar). After that we're into needing more information.
I mentioned the rx7 because of the similar symptoms, since im still learning all this new stuff. But yea i get it wont transfer over haa
I have not tried nvram reset. Ill look it up
edit: i have done this then since ive swapped out e shaft sensor. As well as KAM reset since ive disconnected the battery for engine swap and after it started idling bad
As for the reader? I have no idea, what kind it is its one i just found laying around. Im looking for my bluetooth one.
Possible air leaks- 3 solenoids, a blue clip on connector, two nipples on LIM, one way valve, a solenoid near oil filler?,
Ill try to get more data when i find my other obd2
Last edited by Rattlehead; 04-01-2021 at 08:46 PM.
Sounds like you missed or misrouted a vacuum hose somewhere. Use your OBD to read the measured airflow if it can hold steady warm idle for a second or two. You should be around 5g/sec. If you're measuring below that, air is getting in elsewhere
Im an idiot and dint notice the scanner had pages
i found the air meter reading. It says <1lb/min= about 6g/sec
Real quick -20% short fuel trim is rich or lean?
i saw that my long term stays at 0%
Im an idiot and dint notice the scanner had pages
i found the air meter reading. It says <1lb/min= about 6g/sec
Real quick -20% short fuel trim is rich or lean?
i saw that my long term stays at 0%
STFT should be between +/- 5%. Something wrong with the ESPS is my hunch although you said you changed it out. You reset NVRAM already with the 20 brake pedal stomp?
STFT should be between +/- 5%. Something wrong with the ESPS is my hunch although you said you changed it out. You reset NVRAM already with the 20 brake pedal stomp?
when the car first died on me that was my very first thing to do stomp the break pedal to get the oil pressure needle to move. I have done it every time i swapped out the Eshaft position sensor.
i did get eshaft sensor as a code once but after i swapped it and reset, it hasnt come back and i dont think car would start if sensors were bad. or a bad wwire would thow a code.
I've now noticed its pretty bad when its warm as opposed to while car is cold and warming up
Well previous engine took an hour to start after it was hot. Had bad comp(4 5 5 and 6 6 6) it did develop idle irregularity, but even then it never died like this one does
this current engine starts right up every time in like 2 seconds when hot like in video
I know I cant completely rule it out, but maybe i still can do a test to rule it out.
Last edited by Rattlehead; 04-01-2021 at 10:50 PM.
I do have another set of injectors i can swap out. If maybe an injector is spraying too much
You can try. At least recheck their wiring.
Did you confirm no air leaks anywhere?
If you want to diagnose this properly, we're going to need to get some data logging the OBD. Airflow, rpm, AFR, STFT to start. If you have to use the throttle to keep it at a steady rpm for a few seconds to get clean data, that's OK.
are you sure the injectors are all plugged in correctly
more than once people have put the wrong harness connector on the wrong fuel injector during an engine swap, myself included. At a minimum that means two injectors would be wired incorrectly.
.
are you sure the injectors are all plugged in correctly
more than once people have put the wrong harness connector on the wrong fuel injector during an engine swap, myself included. At a minimum that means two injectors would be wired incorrectly.
.
i finally got a few days off from work so ill be checking that.
I was confident its right but cant 100% guarantee/ remember
but ill make sure there isnt vacuum leeks as well
Injectors check out. I looked at the wiring.
i rechecked the solenoids and even replaced them with another set i had compared to fd it sooo much easier to deal with. Put it back together still the same.
Now i might begin to suspect its the coils. o2 reads too much fuel, tells computer to remove fuel giving me -stft
means there is fuel not being ignited and burned.
Let me know if this is correct or not
Here are some screenshots i pulled from it running
This time it didnt make it up to temp, and dint wanna bother coninuing
Those don't look like overly rich start up AFR's to me. It'll run a little rich, and your MAF will read a bit higher, even on a healthy cold start. The wild swings of your STFT are probably more of a symptom that there's an issue, which we're all aware of. Are you able to test your coils to see if you're getting spark out of all of them? Does the RPM fluttering change when you push in the clutch or release it? Are you on the stock intake (air filter condition)? How long has it been since the car was driven (bad gas)? What year is your car? The vacuum routing changed slightly between 04-05 and 06-07.
Those don't look like overly rich start up AFR's to me. It'll run a little rich, and your MAF will read a bit higher, even on a healthy cold start. The wild swings of your STFT are probably more of a symptom that there's an issue, which we're all aware of. Are you able to test your coils to see if you're getting spark out of all of them? Does the RPM fluttering change when you push in the clutch or release it? Are you on the stock intake (air filter condition)? How long has it been since the car was driven (bad gas)? What year is your car? The vacuum routing changed slightly between 04-05 and 06-07.
I bought some coils to see if it would fix, and take those out of the equation, but still continues. Swapped wires too.
flutter continues with or without clutch engaged
It hasnt been that long, i started back in january
04 mt gt(i know one of the worst years)
Still seems to me to be an electrical related issue. Maybe try cleaning grounds and go through the fusebox and test all your fuses. Sometimes it really can be that simple. You can test things like ignition coils before purchasing replacements. You want to runs tests and not blindly start replacing parts. Hope this helps.
Still seems to me to be an electrical related issue. Maybe try cleaning grounds and go through the fusebox and test all your fuses. Sometimes it really can be that simple. You can test things like ignition coils before purchasing replacements. You want to runs tests and not blindly start replacing parts. Hope this helps.
ill try checking fuses and grounds before digging in to and replacing injectors with another set i have, which could be stuck open?
I bought some delphi coils from autozone just to see if it was the issue. I plan to get mazmart set, but i needed some quick to not wait on delivery. So these are going back regardless
Is there a thread to checking coils before hand?
Ive got my multimeter if thats enough.
one thing i noticed and i could have been looking at a diffetent year coil plug harnes, mine has (color black black) wires.
i looked at the diagram and it had (black color black)
Really just need a spark tester to see if the spark is working correctly from the coil pack. You can also use a multimeter to test the coil pack. To do the multimeter test see this thread.
03-31-2021, 11:08 PM
