Okay so I've had an idle issue since winter. Really just frustrates the living hell out of me! I've done everything! Except take the tps off to clean but I've cleaned around it without removing, I'm just fearful of snapping that bolt it looks rather unsafe lol. When the car starts to idle funny it's right after relays switch over you can hear them pop per say before the funky stuff starts happening.

But the other day the purge valve plug wire snapped off by my hitting my wrist against when topping off oil. Looks like it had actually been tampered with before. Went to Mazda the parts guy was nice enough to cut a connector off a harness that was in the junk pile. Got that all spliced up no longer throws that purge valve code. But I learned another code was present the tuning valve code I believe p2070 was the number. I've taken the ssv out and cleaned it about 2 months ago and it moves freely still.

But this isn't my main concern.
A day into the purge valve being disconnected the car started getting a hard start issue. Not like flooding or hard hot starts. Just hard starts all together takes a few seconds longer then normal cold or hot and sounds like it's struggling like vroom vroom vroom. Not a chug chug chug. If that makes since.

Could have I fouled a plug out while the purge valve was disconnected? I don't have misfires etc ign was all replaced in February or March.

It doesn't ever not start just hard to start. And this idle hunt with relays clicking. Is it a grounding bad wire connection? The alternator was recently replaced with a Napa Reman about 3 weeks ago or sooner. Not sure the old one was entirely bad just it had a voltage drop that I didn't like and hoped that would solve the idle.

 

I have duty tomorrow full 36 hour shift but the following day I'm going to switch the coils around and see if that helps the idle. Maybe one of the coil packs went bad? (Advance auto) Does the car start with trailing and leading or just trailing? I believe it just idles off trailing correct? I don't want to think its a bad motor because it runs so freckin hard! But what do I know 😂 also I didn't change the wires with the plugs and coil change I thought they were fine those got replaced not to long ago and it literally cured all my mis fires so maybe the bad wires messed up my new plugs and coils? Will switch them around Thursday 😑

 

Update

Switched the trailing and leading coils around. Starts up like a champ again hot or cold no issues 😁 idling a lot better but it's still in the 20 stomp break memory reset. But idles much better during this then it did before the swap. Drove the car around no misfires and has power at all rpms maybe even a little snappier coming back on the throttle not sure how that ties in.

Given the situation should I replace the coils asap!? I feel like it's fine to drive for now. Kind of feel more comfortable then I did before lol.

I plan on a ls2 cool swap soon. Anyone think I should rush this?

Forgot to mention upon first start up it idled really hard and low. Sounded like fouled plugs, like it wasn't firing all the way. Drove her around got her up to 9k and brought her back in and did the 20 brake stomp. Needle doesn't move now 😁😁😁😁

 

Yes, replace the coils.
You know there is a problem.
Coils, plugs, and wires should be replaced every 30k miles.

Many of us don't think swaps are cool.
They are expensive, and time consuming, and rarely work properly.
Research it thoroughly before you do something you might regret.

 

Thanks for the reply, I I'm using an iphone and kind of new to it. So the autocorrect failures you always see are my life lately.

I meant the bennit built or bhr coil swap. Ls2/Yukon coils.

Trust me no ls2 is going in here!

Had an FC when I was younger which got me into turning wrenches. Now I'm a engineering department mechanic on a submarine lol. I blame the FC.

But this rx8 is a little new to me the FC was usually cut and dry on issues. I recently changed the whole ignition that's why I didn't think it was the coils already. But guess so.
I'll stop by advance and see if they had a warranty. And look into ordering the ls2 coil kit asap.

 

Be sure the wires snap on tightly.
If you haven't cleaned the MAF sensor, try that.

 

Maf and throttle body have been cleaned throughly.

Went to advanced today coils will be in tomorrow under warranty. On top of that I said I want a new set of plugs as these are fouled out and she said since the coils failed the new plugs are free! Score!

 

Be sure you get the OEM NGK Laser iridium plugs and not some cheap free ones.
Pay for them if you have to.

 

They are the ngk I mentioned I will need new plugs and she saw on my order from before with the coils that I got plugs at same time. She said bring in coils and your old plugs tomorrow and everything will be handled under warranty for free 😎

 

Good deal.
I hope that fixes it.
Good luck!

*edit* I noticed in your first post you said clean the '"tps", I assumed you meant the ESS.

 

Yes I meant the ESS idk why I wrote that. Will update how it goes this afternoon

 

Well of coarse everything doesn't go as planned. The rear iron housing leading plug hole is cross threaded not sure why I just had that plug out last week on the lift and it had no issues going in.

The shop on base is closed till Tuesday but will get it back on the lift and tap it back out. For now the plug is mostly in there but I didn't want to wrench on it anymore. About 80 to 90 percent in. Went in good for the first 50 percent.

The old plugs that came out were disgusting. Which is also weird as I had both rear iron plugs out last week when I changed the oil just to see what they looked like. They were in decent shape then a little black but at this point I just expect that till a rebuild this winter.

Car holds idle really well now. Doesn't drop as hard when coming back to a stop. Will do a reset on ecu and 20 brake stomp again once the car cools all the way down.

 

A trick I learned many years ago to avoid crossthreading plugs was to use an old plug wire to start them.
It's foolproof.

 

Genius^

 

I'm not to concerned we have like 5 great tap and dye kits on my boat. And old rusty submarine bolts and nuts I've got plenty of experience in these operations 😂

 

Then I shouldn't have to remind you to use plenty of grease on the tap, or a shop vac to keep the metal shavings out of the housings.

 

We have a special tap lubrication, might just use that. Can't I just push the shavings into the housing and have it fill in the spaces on the aviation seals 😂😂😂 logic right?

 

I recently changed my plugs coils and wires for the first time since I had bought the car (no issues, just wanted to change them) and wow was I shocked......the leading spark plug on rotor #2 was cross threaded and was on an angle in relation to the others.

I run a golf course and immediately called the mechanic and got it in the lift in the shop....he removed all the plugs for me and also showed me a pretty cool trick to rethread the cross-threaded hole.....He took one of the old leading plugs and used a hacksaw to score the metal near the tip where it sparks, the leading plugs already have the 4 notches at the end so he placed the saw inside each of the 4 notches and with a couple passes with the saw he roughed up each notch. He then put that old plug back into the housing gently tightening it to re-thread the hole. The new plug threaded in beautifully!

I was really worried when I saw the cross-threaded plug but was even more shocked at how well his trick worked. My mechanic there knows about rotary engines, but has never actually worked on one but with over 35 years as a mechanic he knows his stuff!! And thank goodness for his expertise and little trick as it saved my 8.....I have since had the plugs out while doing an oil change and clean up and it threaded back in beautifully, Just thought id pass this along in case you do have a cross-threaded plug.

Good Luck and Cheers!
Big Fella

 

So, any updates?

 

Actually heading to the shop on base now to fix it. I'm in a 3 section duty rotation so work hours have been 100 plus these last few weeks. Wish me luck!

 

All buttoned up. Less crackling when letting off the gas now. Assuming with plug seated it's getting a proper fire now!

 

Cool. Hopefully you're good to go now.
Good luck!

 

Also cleaned up the grounding bracket and wire right on the oil pan, it was filthy. Think that was my slight idle issue and dimming of dash when I'd turn on accessories. Going to order a grounding kit. Next project is the clutch. The throw out hearing is shot. I'm guessing it is the same bearing as my FC. That thing went through two throw out bearings in a year. Know of any upgraded bearings?

 

No, never dealt with that.
Probably something in the DIYs.