Finally got my RX-8....Congrats to me I think!
#1
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Finally got my RX-8....Congrats to me I think!
After years of wanting an RX-8 I finally got one. It was a freebie! Lots of hail damage, coolant leaking, suspension issues but hey, it passed the compression test. So still reading through threads and what not and getting a general idea of whats going on but I have a stupid question...
At what point is a Cobb AP needed with tune? For instance, if I throw on a AEM intake, do I need the AP?
Here she is!
At what point is a Cobb AP needed with tune? For instance, if I throw on a AEM intake, do I need the AP?
Here she is!
#2
wow, free is a good price,
and if it has good compression, even better!
Don't bother with intake, etc. Get it working 100% again. check ignition system etc. Read the Newbie guide on here and follow it.
Good luck!!
and if it has good compression, even better!
Don't bother with intake, etc. Get it working 100% again. check ignition system etc. Read the Newbie guide on here and follow it.
Good luck!!
#3
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Appreciate it man. Already working on getting it cleaned up and fixed. At least I seem to live relatively close to this Rotary Performance place in Garland I keep reading about. I'll definitely have to check it out for getting things done right.
#4
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Post up your compression numbers. It's like being able to measure how long you have left to live.
Make an intake the last on your list of things to do. I mean very last. Like, "I had the car repainted and now I'm out of things to do" last.
As far as when you "need" to tune; any time you make significant changes to the flow in or out of the engine, it's a good idea. That said, most intakes don't change enough to make a tune necessary. At least one really popular one actually causes problems. Mazda did a crapton of research on intake tuning so there's not a whole lot left to be gained. At least one racing team uses (used?) the Mazda factory paper air filter, which should tell you a lot.
https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8-discuss...z-tuning-5710/
If you're going to pay for hardware/software to mess with the PCM, just get mazdaEdit and Tactrix OpenPort. This isn't a bad idea even if you haven't made any changes because it will let you increase OMP rate and lower the radiator fan trigger temperatures.
Make an intake the last on your list of things to do. I mean very last. Like, "I had the car repainted and now I'm out of things to do" last.
As far as when you "need" to tune; any time you make significant changes to the flow in or out of the engine, it's a good idea. That said, most intakes don't change enough to make a tune necessary. At least one really popular one actually causes problems. Mazda did a crapton of research on intake tuning so there's not a whole lot left to be gained. At least one racing team uses (used?) the Mazda factory paper air filter, which should tell you a lot.
https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8-discuss...z-tuning-5710/
If you're going to pay for hardware/software to mess with the PCM, just get mazdaEdit and Tactrix OpenPort. This isn't a bad idea even if you haven't made any changes because it will let you increase OMP rate and lower the radiator fan trigger temperatures.
Last edited by NotAPreppie; 04-20-2017 at 02:34 PM.
#5
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Post up your compression numbers. It's like being able to measure how long you have left to live.
Make an intake the last on your list of things to do. I mean very last. Like, "I had the car repainted and now I'm out of things to do" last.
As far as when you "need" to tune; any time you make significant changes to the flow in or out of the engine, it's a good idea. That said, most intakes don't change enough to make a tune necessary. At least one really popular one actually causes problems. Mazda did a crapton of research on intake tuning so there's not a whole lot left to be gained. At least one racing team uses (used?) the Mazda factory paper air filter, which should tell you a lot.
https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8-discuss...z-tuning-5710/
If you're going to pay for hardware/software to mess with the PCM, just get mazdaEdit and Tactrix OpenPort. This isn't a bad idea even if you haven't made any changes because it will let you increase OMP rate and lower the radiator fan trigger temperatures.
Make an intake the last on your list of things to do. I mean very last. Like, "I had the car repainted and now I'm out of things to do" last.
As far as when you "need" to tune; any time you make significant changes to the flow in or out of the engine, it's a good idea. That said, most intakes don't change enough to make a tune necessary. At least one really popular one actually causes problems. Mazda did a crapton of research on intake tuning so there's not a whole lot left to be gained. At least one racing team uses (used?) the Mazda factory paper air filter, which should tell you a lot.
https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8-discuss...z-tuning-5710/
If you're going to pay for hardware/software to mess with the PCM, just get mazdaEdit and Tactrix OpenPort. This isn't a bad idea even if you haven't made any changes because it will let you increase OMP rate and lower the radiator fan trigger temperatures.
#8
Water Foul
Congrats! Welcome to the fold!
These two threads are required reading for anyone starting out with an RX-8. 90% of what you need to know is in them.
https://www.rx8club.com/new-member-f...t-here-202454/
https://www.rx8club.com/new-member-f...rx-8-a-233937/
You seem like a smart guy, so I know I don't need to tell you this, but the first order of business with an 8 is reliability work. That generally means ignition system refresh and cooling system overhaul.
Have fun with it, and let us know if we can help!
These two threads are required reading for anyone starting out with an RX-8. 90% of what you need to know is in them.
https://www.rx8club.com/new-member-f...t-here-202454/
https://www.rx8club.com/new-member-f...rx-8-a-233937/
You seem like a smart guy, so I know I don't need to tell you this, but the first order of business with an 8 is reliability work. That generally means ignition system refresh and cooling system overhaul.
Have fun with it, and let us know if we can help!
#9
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Thanks man. Yeah, I'm getting the heater core replaced this week because I am pretty sure that's where the leak is, and the coolant reservoir. Then it will be fixing the suspension so it doesn't sound like I am bottoming out every bump. I just had the plugs, wires, and coil packs all replaced, oil change. Next will be a radiator and who knows.
#10
Water Foul
CSF or Koyo for radiator. Pretty much all the other options have fitment issues.
Bilstein B14 PSS coilovers for suspension. I have tried or been exposed to all options under $2500, and those are by far the best value at $1000. Everything cheaper than that is junk, in terms of coilovers. If you want to spend $2,000, then Ohlins is the place to be.
If you just want shocks and lowering springs, the Bilstein B12 kit is the way to go. If you ever get tired of it and decide you want coilovers, the shocks can be easily sleeved to make coilovers, and the shocks are rebuildable and revalve-able (new word!), which makes them future proof.
Bilstein B14 PSS coilovers for suspension. I have tried or been exposed to all options under $2500, and those are by far the best value at $1000. Everything cheaper than that is junk, in terms of coilovers. If you want to spend $2,000, then Ohlins is the place to be.
If you just want shocks and lowering springs, the Bilstein B12 kit is the way to go. If you ever get tired of it and decide you want coilovers, the shocks can be easily sleeved to make coilovers, and the shocks are rebuildable and revalve-able (new word!), which makes them future proof.
#11
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CSF or Koyo for radiator. Pretty much all the other options have fitment issues.
Bilstein B14 PSS coilovers for suspension. I have tried or been exposed to all options under $2500, and those are by far the best value at $1000. Everything cheaper than that is junk, in terms of coilovers. If you want to spend $2,000, then Ohlins is the place to be.
If you just want shocks and lowering springs, the Bilstein B12 kit is the way to go. If you ever get tired of it and decide you want coilovers, the shocks can be easily sleeved to make coilovers, and the shocks are rebuildable and revalve-able (new word!), which makes them future proof.
Bilstein B14 PSS coilovers for suspension. I have tried or been exposed to all options under $2500, and those are by far the best value at $1000. Everything cheaper than that is junk, in terms of coilovers. If you want to spend $2,000, then Ohlins is the place to be.
If you just want shocks and lowering springs, the Bilstein B12 kit is the way to go. If you ever get tired of it and decide you want coilovers, the shocks can be easily sleeved to make coilovers, and the shocks are rebuildable and revalve-able (new word!), which makes them future proof.
Was looking at the Koyo for the radiator, even thinking replacing all the lines/fans as well. Hot weather in TX and all, need all the cooling I can get.
As for the suspensions, thanks for the suggestion. I will most likely do coilovers. Congrats on the new word!
Random newb like question. When driving, I have noticed that the stick and cup holder area seem to heat up. This doesn't always happen but when it does its really noticeable. Thoughts?
#12
Water Foul
Thanks Steve. C
Was looking at the Koyo for the radiator, even thinking replacing all the lines/fans as well. Hot weather in TX and all, need all the cooling I can get.
As for the suspensions, thanks for the suggestion. I will most likely do coilovers. Congrats on the new word!
Random newb like question. When driving, I have noticed that the stick and cup holder area seem to heat up. This doesn't always happen but when it does its really noticeable. Thoughts?
Was looking at the Koyo for the radiator, even thinking replacing all the lines/fans as well. Hot weather in TX and all, need all the cooling I can get.
As for the suspensions, thanks for the suggestion. I will most likely do coilovers. Congrats on the new word!
Random newb like question. When driving, I have noticed that the stick and cup holder area seem to heat up. This doesn't always happen but when it does its really noticeable. Thoughts?
Yep. Center console gets hot. The catalytic converter is right under it, and this car runs high EGTs. One "fix" is to remove the stock heat shielding and install DEI thermal sheet underneath, and replace the shielding. You may notice your right foot gets hot too.
That brings up a good point, though. You MUST check your cat for clogging. A weak ignition system will clog the cat, and the heat and back-pressure from that will kill the engine.