It Finally Happened...
#1
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Last few days I've had a loss of power around 5k RPM. I have been a rotary owner for 10 years(I've owned 2 FCs and 2 RX-8s in that time). I have never had an engine fail or any serious problems in that time with any of my cars that I couldn't fix in my own garage. My 2008 with 52k miles, failed compression test today
. The good news is they're covering it with warranty and I'm getting a new engine. From what I'm told I only have to pay for the spark plugs and wires because mine were "aftermarket" and they can't put them on due to not being OEM(mine were better). I originally thought it was the cat because it was glowing red when I got home from work last night, but from what they told me the cat is fine. I'm worried about that though, can the engine failing cause the cat to do that? Doesn't seem to make sense to me. Anyway that was my news today and as I've been a long time reader of this forum, I've never had a reason to really post. Any other advice or things I should look for once I get this new engine would be appreciated. Also, what exactly did they change in the "new" engines they're replacing the broken ones with?
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#2
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Yes, a low compression engine can make a cat glow red. Basically the more fuel and air not being burnt in the engine (squeezed out), the more combustion is just happening inside the exhaust, blowtorching the cat. I'd insist that while they have the engine out, have them visually inspect the interior of the cat. That kind of abuse dramatically shortens the cat life. Fortunately, you have cat warranty coverage till 8yr 80k.
The plugs you should have are OEM, as they are the best plugs available. Wires are wires are wires. I've never known a dealer give a hassle for aftermarket wires.
You will have a new water pump and flywheel, but everything else gets transfered. Accessories, ignition, belts, etc... If something can't be transfered or is unwise to transfer, then they will probably charge you for a replacement, like belts.
1,000-3,000 miles on the new engine, thoroughly flush the entire cooling system. Not just a simple flush, run as many gallons through as you can. Remans have too much sealant in the engine in the coolant path that can break off and float around the cooling system till it clogs up. Most premature engine failures happen on remans between 8k and 12k, and are directly from cooling system failures, most likely from that excess sealant. Numerous owners have had radiators or thermostats clog up and fail around 5-7k on the reman, assuming they catch it.
The plugs you should have are OEM, as they are the best plugs available. Wires are wires are wires. I've never known a dealer give a hassle for aftermarket wires.
You will have a new water pump and flywheel, but everything else gets transfered. Accessories, ignition, belts, etc... If something can't be transfered or is unwise to transfer, then they will probably charge you for a replacement, like belts.
1,000-3,000 miles on the new engine, thoroughly flush the entire cooling system. Not just a simple flush, run as many gallons through as you can. Remans have too much sealant in the engine in the coolant path that can break off and float around the cooling system till it clogs up. Most premature engine failures happen on remans between 8k and 12k, and are directly from cooling system failures, most likely from that excess sealant. Numerous owners have had radiators or thermostats clog up and fail around 5-7k on the reman, assuming they catch it.
Last edited by RIWWP; 10-07-2014 at 09:08 PM.
#3
Thank you for the advice, I will for sure do that. My plugs were NGK iridiums, I've always used them in every rotary engine I've owned and I don't know why they are considering them as aftermarket.
Last edited by USN419; 10-07-2014 at 09:42 PM.
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