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Ok before I say anything, I get everyone has their own opinion and I respect that. My rx8 just got rebuilt and im getting ready to start it for the first time. I need to put fluids back into the engine. I really really want to avoid cooling issues so I replaced my water pump, and now I need to know what antifreeze to use. Ive heard that you want 2-EHA free, but I need something I can get at my local auto parts store (there are tons around me) and preferably cheap. I also will need oil, im going to premix Idemitsu and run 93 or 91 octane (depending on what station im near when I need a fill up). So for break in, should I run 0W-40 to get everything sealed right and then switch to something thinner after break in? Just tell me what you guys recommend.
Don't cheap out. This isn't a car that tolerates cheap owners very well.
Use Mazda FL-22 coolant. It's not that expensive unless you are replacing it every year.
Don't use a lower viscosity oil than 5w-30 unless you live in the arctic circle. Ideally, pick a nice Xw-40. The viscosity of the oil will likely have little impact on sealing. Castrol GTX 5w-30 is probably a good starting point. Since you mention 0w-40, I'll assume that you aren't afraid of synthetic oils. If that's the case then it's hard to go wrong with any of the high-end boutique oils like Mobil 1, Amsoil, Motul or Redline. If you don't care about your cat, Shell Rotella T6 is also well liked.
There are better (and possibly cheaper) 2-stroke oils than Idemitsu but there's nothing wrong with Idemitsu. JASO-FD and/or ISO GD are standards you should look for. Here's a good candidate:
Ok will do with the coolant and I'll also go with the premix you recommend, but I just replaced my cat with a magnaflow bolt on one. Where is the middle ground between the oils so I get enough lubrication but don't kill my cat?
Can you not ask your builder for specific recommendations?
Zerex Asian coolant meets the requirements for this car, and it is inexpensive and widely available. It is pink, so you need to thoroughly flush ALL of the coolant system, unless you want brown coolant. Otherwise use FL22.
"Straight" 40 usually means SAE 40. My guess is, he wants you turn run SAE 40 for some number of miles, then switch to whatever lighter oil you want to use. Personally, I use Mobil 1 0W40 as my every day oil.
For premix, I use the Lucas oil referenced above. Much cheaper than Idemitsu, and widely available.
That Magnaflow cat will work for a while, but they are not rated for the heat a rotary puts out, so keep a close eye on it. They tend to fail pretty quickly.
Hopefully you are installing all new ignition components with the engine?
I don't know about Renesises, but I wouldn't break in any engine on synthetic or any high quality oil. You want the sharp edges on new parts to ablate, not slip and slide. I had another motor I used synth in from mile 0 and the rings never properly wore in. Motor lived about a year, and consensus between the folks involved, attribute it to improper break-in oil. Live n learn.
I asked my rebuilder, I just wanted to hear what you guys had to say. Yes I got new coils plugs and wires. And when you say the cat would fail "pretty quickly" what are we talking, 20k miles?
...Castrol GTX 5w-30 is probably a good starting point...
Originally Posted by Cody Helton
Would the GTX 5W-30 be good? My rebuilder told me I should run "straight 40 for the break in"
The only problem with oil killing your cat is if you pick one with high zinc content (in the form of ZDDP). For the most part, you'll only find large enough quantities to endanger your cat in diesel motors oils (like Shell Rotella T6).
Beyond that, crank case oil will have little impact on the longevity of your cat. This is especially true if you picked the cheapest universal, bolt-in Magnaflow.
Honestly, my hunch is that there are so few break-in contact faces in the rotary where oil viscosity matters. And, even if you use a God's own perfect motor oil, contact faces will wear into each other eventually.
If you rebuilder included a warranty on their work then do whatever they say to do and keep the receipts. Not that it will necessarily do you much good if you have to make use of it (they can make up any excuse they want to not honor it; ask me how I know), but you DEFINITELY won't be able to if you don't follow their rules. Keep your receipts for everything.
I don't know about Renesises, but I wouldn't break in any engine on synthetic or any high quality oil. You want the sharp edges on new parts to ablate, not slip and slide. I had another motor I used synth in from mile 0 and the rings never properly wore in. Motor lived about a year, and consensus between the folks involved, attribute it to improper break-in oil. Live n learn.
To be more clear, I was thinking of using a conventional SAE 40 for maybe 500 to 1,000 miles, then switching to whatever multi-weight oil he plans to use going forward: conventional, synthetic, or whatever.
I have never broken in a new Renesis engine before, but when I have broken in new piston engines, I have spent the $$ on break-in oil and changed it after 500 miles. The next oil has been conventional oil, and I changed that after 1,000 miles. At that point, the engine got whatever synthetic I was using at the time.
All of this is academic, however, because he should follow his engine builder's recommendations to the letter.
As far as what oil to use as everyday oil, the oil wars taught us to use whatever makes a person happy. Drain and fill it every 3,000 miles, and change the filter every 6,000 miles. Do that consistently, and everything will be OK.
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Last edited by Steve Dallas; 07-11-2017 at 02:48 PM.
These are the fluids i've determined I am going to use. Just to be sure, that antifreeze is safe to put in my 8's cooling system right? Also, when I pulled my engine I took off the trigger wheel. I'm not sure how it goes back on, does it matter?
(Both the links and attachments are the same thing, just whatever you guys prefer to use.)
Can't really comment on the oil. It's a very complicated subject, and thicker oil doesn't mean more protection(a common misunderstanding). Some people swear by 0W-40 synthetic, while old me just uses 5W-20 dino oil. Just read up and run whatever makes you the most comfortable.
These are the fluids i've determined I am going to use. Just to be sure, that antifreeze is safe to put in my 8's cooling system right? Also, when I pulled my engine I took off the trigger wheel. I'm not sure how it goes back on, does it matter?
(Both the links and attachments are the same thing, just whatever you guys prefer to use.)
There are only 4 coolants I know of that are safe: Mazda FL-22, Motorcraft VC-10-A2, Beck Arnley 252-1001U, and Zerex Asian. Using anything else risks degradation of the coolant seals in the engine, unless you have read the MSDS and determined the coolant does not contain 2-EHA, borates, or silicates.
I'm sure that oil is fine. I would run it. Just change it frequently; that is the most important thing.
If you are breaking in a new / reman engine, follow your engine builder's instructions exactly.
Can't really comment on the oil. It's a very complicated subject, and thicker oil doesn't mean more protection(a common misunderstanding). Some people swear by 0W-40 synthetic, while old me just uses 5W-20 dino oil. Just read up and run whatever makes you the most comfortable.
Well, you do live in BC, where it doesn't get twice as hot as the surface of the angriest star in the universe, so 5W20 dino is likely fine for you. (BTW, there is no such thing as 20W dino oil. At least some synthetic base stock is required to make an oil that thin.)
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Last edited by Steve Dallas; 07-12-2017 at 09:29 AM.
I asked my rebuilder, I just wanted to hear what you guys had to say. Yes I got new coils plugs and wires. And when you say the cat would fail "pretty quickly" what are we talking, 20k miles?
Search this site for the Magnaflow part number for comments on how long they have lasted. For more complete results, use Google or Bing with this syntax: site:rx8club.com Magnaflow 123456.
For some reason, 6 months sticks in my beer-addled brain for one of them. Not sure about the other.
I agree - just use FL-22 - the cost over 2 years with FL-22 cannot justify what would happen for cheaper coolant substitute when your engine fails (saved $30 but spent $3000 on new refurbished engine). Oil can be tested to ensure it's working in your car (Blackstone Labs). Collant has no test unless it fails - then you fork over $3-5000 for replacement.
Well, you do live in BC, where it doesn't get twice as hot as the surface of the angriest star in the universe, so 5W20 dino is likely fine for you. (BTW, there is no such thing as 20W dino oil. At least some synthetic base stock is required to make an oil that thin.).
I guess a better way to put it is whatever that doesn't say synthetic on the bottle. I grabbed a big jug of Castrol GTX for my next oil change. From the data I have seen, it seems like GTX produces a stronger film than the Pennzoil yellow bottle.
I agree that 5W-30 can be better in hotter climates, as it doesn't break down and is more stable at a higher temperature.
07-11-2017, 10:44 AM
Fluids
