Fresh rebuild wont start
#1
Fresh rebuild wont start
Hi Everyone,
I purchased a Rebuilt engine from another country ( South Africa ), and Im in Mozambique.
The first engine was used and had no good compression, only started with oil in plug holes.
No this one (rebuilt) , compression puffs seem loud and ok, dont have a compression tester, nor one in 3000km, but it cranks, i get spark and fuel, it sounds as it nearly want to start but it doesnt (Until it floods).
Its a Mazda Rx8, 4 port auto, 2004 Model, with 65000km on it. Japanese imported in 2016.
I really need help as I dont have any rotary mechanic in my area and Im desperate to get the car running.
Please Help!!!
I purchased a Rebuilt engine from another country ( South Africa ), and Im in Mozambique.
The first engine was used and had no good compression, only started with oil in plug holes.
No this one (rebuilt) , compression puffs seem loud and ok, dont have a compression tester, nor one in 3000km, but it cranks, i get spark and fuel, it sounds as it nearly want to start but it doesnt (Until it floods).
Its a Mazda Rx8, 4 port auto, 2004 Model, with 65000km on it. Japanese imported in 2016.
I really need help as I dont have any rotary mechanic in my area and Im desperate to get the car running.
Please Help!!!
#2
I mean it could be many things, anything from a poor rebuild to an install error. Either way it is pretty much impossible for anyone to diagnose over the internet.
Too bad it is an auto.
Too bad it is an auto.
#7
Have you reset the ESS profile? Key in "on", door open, press the brake pedal 20 times in 8 seconds. Car will confirm with one sweep of the oil pressure gauge. Try it again after that.
#9
#10
Check compression:
-Unable to presently as no tester is available in your area. You really need to order one, even if it is just a normal piston comp. tester, you can get a rough idea from it.
Spark:
-Are the coils going to the correct plugs and validated that all wiring is fully-seated, and in the correct coil?
-Are plugs getting spark? Remove from motor, provide a ground to the plugs, and crank the engine to see if they are sparking.
-Are they OEM plugs, do you have a picture of them that might indicate events in the combustion chamber?
Coil-to-Plug connections. From front to back.
Coil 1: Front rotor, Leading plug
Coil 2: Front rotor, Trailing plug
Coil 3: Rear rotor, Leading plug
Coil 4: Rear rotor, Trailing plug
Fuel:
-Do you hear the fuel pump priming on key-on?
-Do you have fuel pressure at the fuel rail? There should be a Schrader valve on or near the fuel fail that you can check this from, but I can speak to the location.
-Check that the injectors are firing. Are the spark plugs wet with fuel at all, or bone dry? Maybe pull a primary injector and crank engine to see if they are firing.
-Re-validate that the injectors (and their wiring) are in the correct positions, not just that they are connected.
Air/induction:
-Check airbox, intake tube, intake manifold, etc for leaks, blockages (debris), or disconnect/cracked/mis-routed lines.
-MAF connected and clean?
Starter & battery:
Is your starter and battery healthy? Have they been tested as good? Is the battery the correct size (high enough CCA rating)?
Sensors:
-Make sure the Eccentric Shaft Sensor is connected and undamaged. You won't get fuel or spark if this is inoperable
-Unable to presently as no tester is available in your area. You really need to order one, even if it is just a normal piston comp. tester, you can get a rough idea from it.
Spark:
-Are the coils going to the correct plugs and validated that all wiring is fully-seated, and in the correct coil?
-Are plugs getting spark? Remove from motor, provide a ground to the plugs, and crank the engine to see if they are sparking.
-Are they OEM plugs, do you have a picture of them that might indicate events in the combustion chamber?
Coil-to-Plug connections. From front to back.
Coil 1: Front rotor, Leading plug
Coil 2: Front rotor, Trailing plug
Coil 3: Rear rotor, Leading plug
Coil 4: Rear rotor, Trailing plug
Fuel:
-Do you hear the fuel pump priming on key-on?
-Do you have fuel pressure at the fuel rail? There should be a Schrader valve on or near the fuel fail that you can check this from, but I can speak to the location.
-Check that the injectors are firing. Are the spark plugs wet with fuel at all, or bone dry? Maybe pull a primary injector and crank engine to see if they are firing.
-Re-validate that the injectors (and their wiring) are in the correct positions, not just that they are connected.
Air/induction:
-Check airbox, intake tube, intake manifold, etc for leaks, blockages (debris), or disconnect/cracked/mis-routed lines.
-MAF connected and clean?
Starter & battery:
Is your starter and battery healthy? Have they been tested as good? Is the battery the correct size (high enough CCA rating)?
Sensors:
-Make sure the Eccentric Shaft Sensor is connected and undamaged. You won't get fuel or spark if this is inoperable
Last edited by furansu; 03-29-2018 at 05:57 PM.
#11
Fuel on Lower Intake to throttle body
I WAS REMOVING THE LOWER INTAKE TO TEST THE INJECTORS AND I notice fuel coming out from the pipe on the lower intake that goes to the Throttle Body. IS that normal?
#12
#13
The jet lines? Are you sure it's fuel, not oil or oil+water+fuel condensate?
Blow-by can cause oil to collect in the intake from whence it can in theory end ip in the jet air lines. I don't really see how fuel would ever back up in the same way.
How confident are you that this engine was rebuilt by someone who knows what they're doing?
Blow-by can cause oil to collect in the intake from whence it can in theory end ip in the jet air lines. I don't really see how fuel would ever back up in the same way.
How confident are you that this engine was rebuilt by someone who knows what they're doing?
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