moneypit94

Still trying to figure out why replacement motor floods almost instantly. I bought a reader and scanner. Everything looks OK except it says error when reading fuel system status bank 2. Is this the secondarys? Or does it not have a bank 2? Could this be a bad injector? I have spares from the old motor.

I cleared coded, reset PCM, and deflooded it.. It ran for about 4 sec instead of 2 before dying and being flooded.

Already had a bad throttle body. Just trying to figure out what else is going on.

Loki

iTrader: (1)

What is the actual code P0###? There is no bank 2 really...

As for why it floods, are the injectors possibly plugged in reverse (secondaries plugged into primary connectors)? It's a very easy mistake to make when installing a new engine.

moneypit94

P0138-P in which I currently don't have a downstream o2 plugged in.

I actually took all the injectors out, ohm'd them, visually inspected them and the o-rings, checked for resistance on all the connectors and tripple checked my wiring colors as I put the connectors back. Everything seems fine. I haven't checked fuel pressure yet.

in obd2 mode on my scanner my tps reads like from 18% -87% is it supposed to be from 0-100?

I did all that and it started and died again. I'm wondering about the PCM. The car was not running when I bought it but it had severe engine damage to the point it had ground on front stationary gear and rotor.

Loki

iTrader: (1)

18-87% is roughly the normal range. That code is for the missing O2 sensor then, are there others?

If the injectors are OK, what's the state of the coils? Are they new? And are they wired to right connectors and to the right spark plugs?

Is the baro sensor plugged in?

moneypit94

That's the only code showing up.. I have checked the coils. They all ohm the same and I have put a manual coil tester and got a nice blue spark. Everything is correct on them. I have left the baro sensor plugged in.

It fires up and acts like its going to be OK and it's just like it just opens up the injectors and drowns it instantly. I felt I had throttle response for half a second and it flooded out. I will be testing fuel pressure later this week.

Loki

iTrader: (1)

Have you reset the ESS profile?

moneypit94

I have done the brake stomp reset a few times now. If the fuel pressure checks out I'm thinking of sending the PCM in to be checked out.

Loki

iTrader: (1)

What's the intake situation like it? Is it all original?

moneypit94

Stock. I "borrowed" a new MAF from the parts store and it made no difference

moneypit94

Would a bad alternator do this? Some people said alternator when I mentioned my problems before and I thought they were kidding. Now I see a bad alternator can prevent it from starting. I have kept a small trickle charger on it because of trying to constantly clean out the flood. Usually 10 amps. I don't see voltage when cranking it over but have not looked for it YET when it starts for 2 secs.

moneypit94

Ok.. I figured it out. The car is running and it was so stupid. On a whim I just threw the alternator that came on the car on. It started and ran until I shut it off. I was like wow, it had a bad throttle body and alternator.

So I got my son to come check it out because its his car. He started it and it died again like it had been doing. It got me thinking about the only thing I had changed or done different. The battery charger! I had it off when I put the new alternator on because I knew it was fully charged. I put it back on 2 amp when I went to get my son.

After we deflooded it and tried it without the battery charger it started right up. I am sure there are posts about this but I feel glad it runs and stupid it took me a week to figure it out.