neoney

I have a 2004 with a 6 speed manual. Ever since I bought it, the clutch pedal was really hard and squeaked, but the gearbox worked pretty much fine. When winter started, I started to get grind when going into 2nd gear on higher RPMs. Today I was trying to park the car and couldn't get the damn thing into 1st or reverse. Had to fight with it for a bit.
I've noticed that when pushing the shifter into 1st (it didn't go in fully), the car would slightly nudge forward, even though my clutch pedal was down.
Same thing with reverse, but it'd go back.
When I did manage to get it into 1st, it started slowly creeping forward, and stopped when back in neutral.

So, I believe my clutch is not disengaging fully. I've checked the clutch pedal bracket (since the squeak), but couldn't find any cracks on it (I might've missed them, kinda hard to look there).

What else could it be? I think there isn't any issues when I just start the car, only when parking after already driving a bit.

cajunrx8

How much pedal travel before you feel resistance and how much brake fluid in the bottle? Could be air in the lines, slight oil leak in the slave cyl bypassing the seals.
You really need to look closely at the pedal bracket, mine looked good but flexed enough to cause an issue.

neoney

There's like 2cm of pedal travel before resistance. Fluid in the brake bottle looks OK - it's like 1cm below the MAX line.

I've uploaded the side to side play and the squeak here.

neoney

Looking at it again, I'm pretty sure it is cracked. I can slightly move the bottom part separately from the rest:

Meat Head

Looks similar to mine when it snapped. I had to drive home rev matching for shifts. Local Mazda part counter had a replacement clutch pedal for about $70 delivered in 2 days. I’d get one ASAP. The video has the same squeak and crooked alignment as my broken pedal bracket.

neoney

Thanks, I'll try to get it done ASAP then. Do you maybe have a part number or something of that kind? I live in Poland and couldn't find any auction online, I might have to ask people on local facebook groups.

Meat Head

I’m lousy at quoting parts numbers so won’t attempt to send you down the wrong path. I’ve had good luck with MazMart in the US. https://mazmartstore.mybigcommerce.c...-oem-aluminum/

cajunrx8

There ya go, a little bit of wrench time and Beer money and you will be back in business.

BigCajun

iTrader: (1)

Is it RH or LH?
Are the clutch pedal assemblies the same?

I got mine from BHR.
It's an OEM bracket that they reinforced to stop the cracking.
It's a common problem.

https://black-halo-racing.myshopify....d-clutch-pedal

neoney

It's LHD, I found someone on Facebook parting out their 8 who wants to sell the clutch pedal, it looks like it's not cracked. I will ask my mechanic welder uncle to weld it better and put it in, if it fixes my problems I'll get some reinforcement kit to not have that issue in the future. BHR doesn't seem to ship outside of the US

CarbonRX

Btw I don't know if you noticed that in the 2nd video the clutch master cylinder is leaking
hope this helps

neoney

Oh, I didn't realize. I guess I'll have to buy one more part. I managed to get a used (but not cracking) pedal for $25

neoney

Changed the clutch and master cylinder and bled everything. I might have to do some adjusting, as there's a lot of play before the pedal has any resistance, maybe an inch?
So far, there's no more squeaking of the pedal, and it also moves a lot more easily. Could break your leg trying to hold the old one in for a longer time.
I still have issues going in/out of gear after driving a bit, when trying to park. Weird thing is when clutched down and trying (and failing) to go into first a couple of times, the car jerks forward every time.
I'd think the synchros done their thing after the first time, but I guess not. 2nd gear grind still there but less significant (or placebo)



I noticed I have some trans fluid leak near a sensor towards the back passenger side of the transmission. Is this some common issue? I'd get some Redline MT-90 and replace it, but not sure if it's worth getting into if it's leaking. Probably should do both at the same time.

Oh also my clutch's bite point is way lower now. It used to take pretty much at the top of the travel, now it takes like 0.5-1inch from the bottom. I did once fry the clutch to a very bad level (smoke from hood :/) so it may just be toast.

CarbonRX

Hi,
when you replaced the clutch master, did you happen to also change the slave cylinder?
how many people helped you with bleeding the clutch?
it take me 2 people. the second person inside the car operating the pedal by hand.
And me in the wheel arch opening and closing the valve on the slave cylinder.

Loki

iTrader: (1)

If it's lurning forward, your clutch isn't fully disengaging, which makes sense if the friction point is also lower now. If it was way at the top before, I wonder if it wasn't fully engaging as a result. It should be ~25% of the pedal travel from the floor. Go to https://foxed.ca/rx7manual/2003mazdarx8/ then Transmission > Clutch > Clutch Pedal Adjustment

neoney

I didn't change the slave cylinder. I bled the clutch with my dad, almost the same thing as you but he was handling the valve by laying on top of the engine.
I've tried adjusting the clutch pedal, however I must've not pushed it far enough. I'll try it next time I get the chance.

neoney

I've tried adjusting the clutch now and it's at a point where I can feel the vibrations in the pedal even without pressing it down. I think I overdid it, barely any play I'll probably turn it down a bit.

No help. Still can't get into and out of gears. This only happens when at a standstill, gears work beautifully when driving. Just a pita when parking, having to wrestle with the shifter.

I'm at a loss, what else can I check?

neoney

Also worth mentioning, no issues with gears when I just take off - maybe when transmission is cold?

Is it possible that my gear oil is low and that's causing these problems?

Loki

iTrader: (1)

Yeah not having enough oil would certainly not help. First is more sensitive than other gears to very cold oil, like canada in February cold.

Does it still lurch forward with the clutch in and car put in gear after the adjustments?

neoney

Yep, still lurches, just happened. Trying to park, stopped, put it in first, car lurches and the car doesn't go into gear. Immediately try again two more times, same result, until it suddenly does get into gear.

Loki

iTrader: (1)

What fluid is in there? These transmissions do not survive GL5 fluid very well, you need GL4. And if it's old or low from the leak, it might be due for a change as well. I would confirm or refill the trans if you're not sure.

There might be 2 problems: the clutch not disengaging correctly ( the lurch is pretty definitive indication that the engine is still connected to the wheels), and low/poor fluid causing temporary or permanent problems meshing with 1st gear.

neoney

No clue what fluid it is honestly, so I should probably get the Redline MT-90 in there.
I believe the car was serviced at a rotary specialist shop before I bought it, so I think it should have the right fluid, but it just might be old I guess. Or low, since the leak.
All I need is some pump and a tube to get it into the trans, right?

Loki

iTrader: (1)

Yeah a simple handpump should do it. May want to do the diff at the same time (redline 75w90 or something like that).

neoney

Ordered Redline MT-90, but I can't find any proper info about the crush washers for the plugs on the transmission.

I have the part numbers, but I can't find anywhere to order them, and people have mentioned that just using a copper washer of a similar size worked just fine for them.

I'd try doing that but I can't find the proper size!

One source says M18x24x2.5 should be fine, then someone on Reddit said the transmission bolts are 17mm outside, 8mm inside?

It's a 6 speed btw

neoney

Oil is changed. I don't think it made any difference. For example when I go forward a bit, then try backing up for a second, I couldn't get it out of reverse.
When I finally got it out, the car moved. It's like it was being held in place by the gear, even though my clutch was down...