Got myself an 8, but have some issues. Traction Control?
#1
Got myself an 8, but have some issues. Traction Control?
Hey guys. So, as a follow up to this post https://www.rx8club.com/new-member-f...ay-nah-273607/ and against my better judgment, I actually bought this RX8 instead of a new Mazda 3. Can't say I regret because I am totally enjoying this RX8. Its very different and rewarding experience.
So I've had the car for about a week now. Its a 2004 6MT with 151600KMs on the clock. Just had its first oil change today, since change of ownership. Car has been garaged while waiting to get things done (due to holiday season here in Malaysia, only taken out for very short distances then). But while driving it today, I saw some weird things.
1. Erratic RPM on the tach
So I've noticed my RPMs jumping to 0 and then to about 1000 when idling. Car did not jerk or stall. When I gave it some gas, the RPMs would rise like normal. I have read from some posts in here that it could be due to interuption of signals from the OBDII. Do note that I also have an OBDII meter plugged in to track water temps.
2. Power Steering Lights Come On and Off
The Power Steering Light would flash on and off. Not sure why. But it didn't seem to interfere with driving. I still drove home normally.
3. Traction Control Light Turned On by Itself
This is the second time it has happened. And today I think it happened when I took a sharp turn. Actually that was when I realized the Power Steering Light came on too. I didn't notice any loss of power. It still drove fine. I have also read from Search Results here that it could be due to my tires? I haven't gotten around to changing the tires yet. I noticed one tire was balding. Rear 2 tires are the same brand and profile. Front 2 tires are of different brands but same profile, tread wear is worse on the passenger side.
Should I be worried about these things?
Other than that, the car seems to be running hot. Temps today hit 213F (101deg C) before coming back down to 215F (95deg C). New radiator will be coming soon and I will flush the coolant then. Hoping that would cool things down. Weather in Malaysia does get pretty hot. I have been driving my econobox while trying to sort things out with the 8.
Appreciate the help guys. Thanks.
So I've had the car for about a week now. Its a 2004 6MT with 151600KMs on the clock. Just had its first oil change today, since change of ownership. Car has been garaged while waiting to get things done (due to holiday season here in Malaysia, only taken out for very short distances then). But while driving it today, I saw some weird things.
1. Erratic RPM on the tach
So I've noticed my RPMs jumping to 0 and then to about 1000 when idling. Car did not jerk or stall. When I gave it some gas, the RPMs would rise like normal. I have read from some posts in here that it could be due to interuption of signals from the OBDII. Do note that I also have an OBDII meter plugged in to track water temps.
2. Power Steering Lights Come On and Off
The Power Steering Light would flash on and off. Not sure why. But it didn't seem to interfere with driving. I still drove home normally.
3. Traction Control Light Turned On by Itself
This is the second time it has happened. And today I think it happened when I took a sharp turn. Actually that was when I realized the Power Steering Light came on too. I didn't notice any loss of power. It still drove fine. I have also read from Search Results here that it could be due to my tires? I haven't gotten around to changing the tires yet. I noticed one tire was balding. Rear 2 tires are the same brand and profile. Front 2 tires are of different brands but same profile, tread wear is worse on the passenger side.
Should I be worried about these things?
Other than that, the car seems to be running hot. Temps today hit 213F (101deg C) before coming back down to 215F (95deg C). New radiator will be coming soon and I will flush the coolant then. Hoping that would cool things down. Weather in Malaysia does get pretty hot. I have been driving my econobox while trying to sort things out with the 8.
Appreciate the help guys. Thanks.
#2
Registered
iTrader: (1)
Is rpm actually dropping to zero in OBD data or stumbling but not zeroing out? Does sound like a poor connection between ECU and dash. Do any other instruments drop out?
Two different tires at different wear on the same axel can trip the traction control, since one tire turns at a different speed.
Power steering can drop out if the connectors to under the coolant bottle are dirty or loose, but which light are you referring to exactly? Coupled with your rpm drop out, it could be as simple as a poor battery connection/dirty terminals.
Two different tires at different wear on the same axel can trip the traction control, since one tire turns at a different speed.
Power steering can drop out if the connectors to under the coolant bottle are dirty or loose, but which light are you referring to exactly? Coupled with your rpm drop out, it could be as simple as a poor battery connection/dirty terminals.
#3
Hey Loki.
My OBD gauge was not set to read RPM at the moment. I will keep an eye out. At the moment its set to monitor voltage, water temp and speedo. Car doesnt stumble at all. Its just zeroing out at the tach. Other instruments didn't drop out.
I will check on the area around the coolant bottle. I did notice some coolant marks around that area as well.
My OBD gauge was not set to read RPM at the moment. I will keep an eye out. At the moment its set to monitor voltage, water temp and speedo. Car doesnt stumble at all. Its just zeroing out at the tach. Other instruments didn't drop out.
I will check on the area around the coolant bottle. I did notice some coolant marks around that area as well.
#4
Registered
iTrader: (1)
It's possible your eccentric shaft position sensor needs to be reset, there's a simple procedure for it -- key on but not running, press the brake pedal 20 times in rapid succession. The ESS is what reads rpm. It might not be the root cause but easy to do given the history of the car.
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ASH8 (02-14-2022)
#5
Grand Chancellor
I was in Malaysia a number of years ago! For some reason the RX8s there are all done up in badass bodykits. I think it was near the Petronas Tower area a convoy of RX8s and some other sports cars. Looked pretty awesome, sounds great too. Almost wished I could jump out from the taxi cab to tell them I got one too. Hahaha! Fack Malaysia is hot. Food was great. People are friendly.
The following users liked this post:
ASH8 (02-14-2022)
#6
It's possible your eccentric shaft position sensor needs to be reset, there's a simple procedure for it -- key on but not running, press the brake pedal 20 times in rapid succession. The ESS is what reads rpm. It might not be the root cause but easy to do given the history of the car.
I was in Malaysia a number of years ago! For some reason the RX8s there are all done up in badass bodykits. I think it was near the Petronas Tower area a convoy of RX8s and some other sports cars. Looked pretty awesome, sounds great too. Almost wished I could jump out from the taxi cab to tell them I got one too. Hahaha! Fack Malaysia is hot. Food was great. People are friendly.
----
Also guys, is it okay if i just left my OBDII meter plugged in?
#7
Super Moderator
Loki or delhi are great guys and valued RX-8 members here too!, they wont send you down the wrong road so to speak.
Just remember diagnostics over the .net is not always 100% correct.
Engine, just had a quick thread read about Compressions.
ALWAYS re-build engine to OEM Specs with OEM NEW PARTS!
NEVER re-use Apex Seals, ANY Springs.
NEVER re-use Corner Seals and Sprigs and O Rings.
NEVER re-use Side Seals ( O Rings) and or Springs
IF you can afford NEW Rotor Housings then do so, not a fan of re-using Rotor Housings to get a cheaper build cost total.
Many Rotors will clean or wire buff up perfectly fine, just make certain Rotor Bearings are OEM and in top condition.
Eccentric Shaft in most cases are perfectly fine, see the condition of Rotor Bearings.
ALWAYS get Side Irons machined IF WITHIN Specs.
Try and use Genuine Mazda Engine Gasket Sets
We have seen too many penny pinchers who have to tear down motor again as a re-used part
was not within MAZDA specs.
Just remember diagnostics over the .net is not always 100% correct.
Engine, just had a quick thread read about Compressions.
ALWAYS re-build engine to OEM Specs with OEM NEW PARTS!
NEVER re-use Apex Seals, ANY Springs.
NEVER re-use Corner Seals and Sprigs and O Rings.
NEVER re-use Side Seals ( O Rings) and or Springs
IF you can afford NEW Rotor Housings then do so, not a fan of re-using Rotor Housings to get a cheaper build cost total.
Many Rotors will clean or wire buff up perfectly fine, just make certain Rotor Bearings are OEM and in top condition.
Eccentric Shaft in most cases are perfectly fine, see the condition of Rotor Bearings.
ALWAYS get Side Irons machined IF WITHIN Specs.
Try and use Genuine Mazda Engine Gasket Sets
We have seen too many penny pinchers who have to tear down motor again as a re-used part
was not within MAZDA specs.
#8
No respecter of malarkey
iTrader: (25)
if it has any significant mileage then the rotors should also be replaced.
These doritos just don’t hold up as well as previous 13B engines and the sealing requirement on a Renesis is also more critical to it’s performance than the earlier 13B engines as well. It seems like the same engine, but in reality it’s quite different in how the intake and exhaust cycles interact with each other.
That’s where pretty much most people get it wrong on the Renesis. Mazda doesn’t really get the credit they deserve on it. Largely because the design didn’t carry over well into production due to not having stringent enough QC standards. Shifting/excessive tolerances, balancing issues, and cost cutting measures negatively impact durability and performance more easily on a Renesis and in larger magnitude than the previous 13B designs. Being cheap and cutting corners is not going to end well.
You can cheaply build an engine that runs and might last for some length of time, but nowhere near peak potential. A really strong NA Renesis is quite a blast, but most owners haven’t really experienced that. They think because it’s revving past 9000 rpm “it’s really singing now”, but in reality the party is basically over around 8500 rpm. If you don’t have it by then, then wringing it harder only wears everything out, and lowers performance, faster is all.
I had to learn the hard way myself …
.
These doritos just don’t hold up as well as previous 13B engines and the sealing requirement on a Renesis is also more critical to it’s performance than the earlier 13B engines as well. It seems like the same engine, but in reality it’s quite different in how the intake and exhaust cycles interact with each other.
That’s where pretty much most people get it wrong on the Renesis. Mazda doesn’t really get the credit they deserve on it. Largely because the design didn’t carry over well into production due to not having stringent enough QC standards. Shifting/excessive tolerances, balancing issues, and cost cutting measures negatively impact durability and performance more easily on a Renesis and in larger magnitude than the previous 13B designs. Being cheap and cutting corners is not going to end well.
You can cheaply build an engine that runs and might last for some length of time, but nowhere near peak potential. A really strong NA Renesis is quite a blast, but most owners haven’t really experienced that. They think because it’s revving past 9000 rpm “it’s really singing now”, but in reality the party is basically over around 8500 rpm. If you don’t have it by then, then wringing it harder only wears everything out, and lowers performance, faster is all.
I had to learn the hard way myself …
.
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