Hardwire fans to constant power?
#2
The Blue Blur
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Why would you want it to do that?
100% stock the cooling system should keep the temp in check well enough
100% stock the cooling system should keep the temp in check well enough
#3
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You will wear the fans out faster running them all the time. The s2 cars had larger fan motors than the s1, and Mazda usually doesn't upgrade stuff without a reason.
Also there is such a thing as over cooling. The rad fans are thermally controlled, meaning they only run when the PCM thinks it's too hot. If you run them constantly you could overcool the rad. Depending on where you live running the fans in the winter might not be a good idea.
Is it a daily driver? Track ****? Drag car?
Also there is such a thing as over cooling. The rad fans are thermally controlled, meaning they only run when the PCM thinks it's too hot. If you run them constantly you could overcool the rad. Depending on where you live running the fans in the winter might not be a good idea.
Is it a daily driver? Track ****? Drag car?
#4
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Right on. It is an almost daily driver, I live in Georgia and it is HOT and humid and I had read somewhere the fans kick on at a relatively high temperature, I don't have the ability to change that in the Ecu. I could always reverse it in the winter, I was unaware over cooling could be a risk
#5
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First things first, get a and download an app for your smartphone to monitor the actual temps. The temp gauge in the dash is worthless.
You could purchase a fan control kit with a lower trigger temp.
The OEM tune has the fans turn on at a low speed at (some temp I can't remember) and full blast at ~207˚F. This is wholly adequate for most daily driven cars. If you see temperatures going much over 215˚F on a regular basis then your cooling system isn't working properly. Either the fans aren't moving enough air or your radiator can't keep up.
The stock fans should move enough air for normal (non-track) use. If they aren't then one or both could be going bad and not working at peak efficiency. Simply running them all the time won't fix this. One test (though not definitive) is to disconnect the battery and spin the fans by hand. If one or both don't move freely or stop almost immediately then you have a problem. That said, free movement isn't a sure sign that there ISN'T a problem.
If the fans are working fine but the radiator can't keep up then you should look into a coolant flush. If that doesn't fix it then you should replace the radiator as your existing one might have too much scale or some other problem. If you're going to replace the radiator you might as well go with an upgraded model like the or the . Simply turning the fans on all the time won't fix this, either.
You could purchase a fan control kit with a lower trigger temp.
The OEM tune has the fans turn on at a low speed at (some temp I can't remember) and full blast at ~207˚F. This is wholly adequate for most daily driven cars. If you see temperatures going much over 215˚F on a regular basis then your cooling system isn't working properly. Either the fans aren't moving enough air or your radiator can't keep up.
The stock fans should move enough air for normal (non-track) use. If they aren't then one or both could be going bad and not working at peak efficiency. Simply running them all the time won't fix this. One test (though not definitive) is to disconnect the battery and spin the fans by hand. If one or both don't move freely or stop almost immediately then you have a problem. That said, free movement isn't a sure sign that there ISN'T a problem.
If the fans are working fine but the radiator can't keep up then you should look into a coolant flush. If that doesn't fix it then you should replace the radiator as your existing one might have too much scale or some other problem. If you're going to replace the radiator you might as well go with an upgraded model like the or the . Simply turning the fans on all the time won't fix this, either.
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Rxmark (07-03-2017)
#6
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Excellent advice, my motor was replaced with a factory short block I am the second owner, it has 10k miles currently and 68k on the body, I got the coolant flushes the second day I owned it with fl22, oil the first day, it's been compression tested and runs like a top. Just trying to be proactive I have read many forums I like this site a lot.....is a 25-30 dollar obdII from eBay sufficient?
#8
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One major issue which I was encountering last month was extremely slow moving traffic. The fans will shut off essentially as soon as the car starts moving. I tried bumping this value up in the AP maps and it didn't seem to affect anything. After moving at about 5mph over the course of an hour, my temps in the 230's and climbing. Personally I still haven't gone as far as wiring up the relay for it, for the aforementioned reasons (wear).
Last edited by Reoze; 07-03-2017 at 06:22 PM.
#9
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I will pick one up so I can start monitoring asap, it feels like a good car, so you feel as long as coolant system is working at capacity it is plenty sufficient? I'm not used to a car with a brain lol, I tied my fans together on my Miata and 88fc
#10
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Reoze do you live down here with me?? I really don't drive it in heavy traffic or daily but it gets HOT here, is that mazmart temp sensor any good?
#11
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I'm in Austin, it doesn't even get that hot around here compared to a lot of other places I've lived.
If you don't have a way to accurately measure the temperatures though. I wouldn't worry about any of this at this point. No point in fixing something that isn't broken.
If you don't have a way to accurately measure the temperatures though. I wouldn't worry about any of this at this point. No point in fixing something that isn't broken.
#13
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I'd love to agree with this, but I can't. The stock cooling system in the summer around here won't keep up with much.
One major issue which I was encountering last month was extremely slow moving traffic. The fans will shut off essentially as soon as the car starts moving. I tried bumping this value up in the AP maps and it didn't seem to affect anything. After moving at about 5mph over the course of an hour, my temps in the 230's and climbing. Personally I still haven't gone as far as wiring up the relay for it, for the aforementioned reasons (wear).
One major issue which I was encountering last month was extremely slow moving traffic. The fans will shut off essentially as soon as the car starts moving. I tried bumping this value up in the AP maps and it didn't seem to affect anything. After moving at about 5mph over the course of an hour, my temps in the 230's and climbing. Personally I still haven't gone as far as wiring up the relay for it, for the aforementioned reasons (wear).
#14
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Yeah, I do. The problem being that they're only on about 5% of the time they need to be. Besides that, they both pull strong and come on when they're supposed to.
#16
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The issue is, regardless of temperature, they shut off when the car starts moving. My fans are set to come on full at 195 and they do this just fine while standing still.
I will say, I did have an issue with foam, and a sagging undertray. This alleviated 90% of the problem. Once it hits 102-105 and I get stuck in near standstill traffic. The A/C still has to go off.
I will say, I did have an issue with foam, and a sagging undertray. This alleviated 90% of the problem. Once it hits 102-105 and I get stuck in near standstill traffic. The A/C still has to go off.
Last edited by Reoze; 07-03-2017 at 11:24 PM.
#18
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The fans turning off is a function of the ECU, it's an intentional feature. It's also been mentioned dozens of times on these boards. There's tables for it where you can modify the speed at which it happens, changing them doesn't seem to have an effect. Perhaps that's a sign that "something is wrong" but considering I've had absolutely zero issues with my ECU. It seems far more likely that this is just the way it works.
#19
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The fans turning off is a function of the ECU, it's an intentional feature. It's also been mentioned dozens of times on these boards. There's tables for it where you can modify the speed at which it happens, changing them doesn't seem to have an effect. Perhaps that's a sign that "something is wrong" but considering I've had absolutely zero issues with my ECU. It seems far more likely that this is just the way it works.
Think about it, would Mazda conciously release a car that is guaranteed to overheat in traffic in the american south? There would be dead RX8s all over the place if this was normal operation.
To the OP: don't worry about overcooling, the thermostat prevents it. The best thing you can do is the control kit mentioned earlier as well as fresh coolant and general maintenance. Also make sure the undertray is still on the car. Not having it leads to poor radiator performance.
#20
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Think about it, would Mazda conciously release a car that is guaranteed to overheat in traffic in the american south? There would be dead RX8s all over the place if this was normal operation.
#21
What am I doing here?
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The fans turning off is a function of the ECU, it's an intentional feature. It's also been mentioned dozens of times on these boards. There's tables for it where you can modify the speed at which it happens, changing them doesn't seem to have an effect. Perhaps that's a sign that "something is wrong" but considering I've had absolutely zero issues with my ECU. It seems far more likely that this is just the way it works.
Edit:
https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8-racing-...8/#post4771225
https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8-racing-...8/#post4771379
Last edited by NotAPreppie; 07-04-2017 at 10:46 AM.
#24
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It's your car, so you decide, but the behaviour you're describing doesn't sound normal.
#25
Water Foul
If I had an S1 car, I would make sure the undertray and other bits are intact, the fans are both functional and turning at the right speeds, and I would install the relay kit.
Rather than wiring both fans to be on all the time, search for the Fans on Low mod.
Rather than wiring both fans to be on all the time, search for the Fans on Low mod.